I want to repaint the bodywork - Revision history

Bokonon at 02:44, 24 October 2009

2009-10-24T02:44:41Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:44, 23 October 2009
Line 18:		Line 18:
	After you get the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks). Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.		After you get the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks). Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.

	A few final things: the wet-dry paper. Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint, but it'd take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when you're almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.		====Notes====

	As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie... dirt, sawdust, mosquitoes, and wandering fingers. Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC Theatres are good disposable guinea pigs. If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint. As for colors, when you go to the automotive store they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.		*The wet-dry paper: Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint, but it'd take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when you're almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.

			*As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie... dirt, sawdust, mosquitoes, and wandering fingers.

			*Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC Theatres are good disposable guinea pigs.

			*If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint.

			*As for colors: when you go to the automotive store they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.

	==Information on paint types; which kind of paint to use==		==Information on paint types; which kind of paint to use==

Bokonon at 02:38, 24 October 2009

2009-10-24T02:38:47Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:38, 23 October 2009
Line 3:		Line 3:

	[http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]		[http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]


	==Think hard before you get started==		==Think hard before you get started==

Bokonon at 02:38, 24 October 2009

2009-10-24T02:38:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:38, 23 October 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]		[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
	====~~Read~~ this ~~article first:~~====		====A better article than this one====

	~~'''~~[http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]~~'''~~		[http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]


	~~'''A note,~~ before you get started~~:'''~~		==Think hard before you get started==

	Painting is labor-intensive. Unless you've done it before, figure out about how long it's going to take you, then multiply that time by 5-10X. It involves a lot of tedious, repetitive sanding and prep work. So, plan on being patient and taking your time. That, or you can just spray truck bed liner on it like one of our Mighty Leaders and be worry-free for years.		Painting is labor-intensive. Unless you've done it before, figure out about how long it's going to take you, then multiply that time by 5-10X. It involves a lot of tedious, repetitive sanding and prep work. So, plan on being patient and taking your time. That, or you can just spray [[Why truck bedliner is the best paint for your bike\|truck bed liner]] on it like one of our Mighty Leaders and be worry-free for years.

	~~'''~~The painting process~~, by one of our members'''~~		==The painting process==

	The best way to do this is with automotive wet-dry sandpaper. You can find this in any automotive store. ~~I don't remember the grades~~, ~~but using~~ a fairly coarse grade, wet sand the part. A crude but effective way to do this is to put the part in a large trash can filled with water. If this is impractical, just be sure to keep the part wet. A hose set to a slow dribble works well.		The best way to do this is with automotive wet-dry sandpaper. You can find this in any automotive store. First thing, use a fairly coarse grade and wet sand the part. A crude but effective way to do this is to put the part in a large trash can filled with water. If this is impractical, just be sure to keep the part wet. A hose set to a slow dribble works well.

	You don't need to worry about being mirror smooth at first, just don't press too hard, or you will make lines that will be difficult to hide later. Once the old paint (and the clear coat that is on top of the paint) are removed, ~~you~~ prime it. ~~I've heard that hanging~~ the piece with ~~an unbent~~ hanger is a good way to go. Be sure to prime the whole piece at once. After letting it dry for as long as the can says, ~~you~~ apply a second coat. After 15-20 minutes ~~you're going to have to~~ wet sand it again. Unlike before, you're now striving for a mirror-smooth surface. When you take off too much primer in a spot, and you will, reprime the whole piece. Don't do spot priming. ~~In my best piece, it took about~~ 7 or 8 coats to get it perfect. Also, applying the primer needs to be done one coat after another, so make sure you have plenty of time.		You don't need to worry about being mirror smooth at first, just don't press too hard or you will make lines that will be difficult to hide later. Once the old paint (and the clear coat that is on top of the paint) are removed, prime it. Hanging the piece with a hanger is a good way to go. Be sure to prime the whole piece at once. After letting it dry for as long as the can says, apply a second coat. After 15-20 minutes, wet sand it again. Unlike before, you're now striving for a mirror-smooth surface. When you take off too much primer in a spot, and you will, reprime the whole piece. Don't do spot priming. It could likely take 7 or 8 coats to get it perfect. Also, applying the primer needs to be done one coat after another, so make sure you have plenty of time.

	After 24 hours of drying, the easy stuff is all that's left. Use paint from the same ~~manufacture~~ of the primer. ~~I don't remember the brand I used, but I got~~ the primer, paint, and clear coat from the same company. Spray the paint 10-12 inches from the piece, using long strokes. Move your whole arm and not just your wrist. ~~I'm sure you~~'ve seen commercials for body shops that show the guy with the spray gun moving the entire length of the car without stopping; that's what you're going for. Be sure to overlap the passes, but don't spray too long or too slowly in any one spot, or else drips and runs will form. If they do, let the paint dry a bit beyond being tacky and wet sand the ~~run off~~. Apply 4-6 coats of paint.		After 24 hours of drying, the easy stuff is all that's left. Use paint from the same manufacturer of the primer. Get the primer, paint, and clear coat all from the same company. Spray the paint 10-12 inches from the piece, using long strokes. Move your whole arm and not just your wrist. You've likely seen commercials for body shops that show the guy with the spray gun moving the entire length of the car without stopping; that's what you're going for. Be sure to overlap the passes, but don't spray too long or too slowly in any one spot, or else drips and runs will form. If they do, let the paint dry a bit beyond being tacky and wet sand the runoff. Apply 4-6 coats of paint.

	After you get the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks) ~~so I never had to do anything like that~~. Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.		After you get the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks). Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.

	A few final things: the wet-dry paper. Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint, but it'd take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when you're almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.		A few final things: the wet-dry paper. Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint, but it'd take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when you're almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.

	As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie... dirt, sawdust, mosquitoes, and wandering fingers. Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. ~~I had a bunch of~~ Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC ~~that I ruined before I finally got it right~~. If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint. As for colors, when you go to the automotive store, they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.		As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie... dirt, sawdust, mosquitoes, and wandering fingers. Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC Theatres are good disposable guinea pigs. If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint. As for colors, when you go to the automotive store they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.

	~~'''For information~~ on ~~different~~ paint types~~, and tips on~~ which kind of paint to use~~, see:'''~~		==Information on paint types; which kind of paint to use==

	*If you're trying to match a factory color, check out [http://www.color-rite.com/ Color Rite].		*If you're trying to match a factory color, check out [http://www.color-rite.com/ Color Rite].

Bokonon: I want to repaint the bodywork. moved to I want to repaint the bodywork

2008-05-17T19:04:39Z

I want to repaint the bodywork. moved to I want to repaint the bodywork

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:04, 17 May 2008
(No difference)

Bokonon: /* Read this article first: [http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project] */

2007-11-13T18:06:28Z

Read this article first: [http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:06, 13 November 2007
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]		[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
	====Read this article first: [http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]~~====~~		====Read this article first:====

			'''[http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]'''


	'''A note, before you get started:'''		'''A note, before you get started:'''

Bokonon at 12:57, 10 November 2007

2007-11-10T12:57:28Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:57, 10 November 2007
Line 29:		Line 29:

	*[http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/index.jsp Plasti-Kote paints]		*[http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/index.jsp Plasti-Kote paints]

			*[http://krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=10&productid=1751&content=product_details Krylon Fusion for Plastic]

Bokonon at 15:06, 26 August 2007

2007-08-26T15:06:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:06, 26 August 2007
Line 27:		Line 27:

	*[http://www.colorrite.com/support.php Color Rite Tips & FAQ Page]		*[http://www.colorrite.com/support.php Color Rite Tips & FAQ Page]

			*[http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/index.jsp Plasti-Kote paints]

Bokonon at 09:55, 19 June 2007

2007-06-19T09:55:57Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:55, 19 June 2007
Line 8:		Line 8:
	'''The painting process, by one of our members'''		'''The painting process, by one of our members'''

	The best way to do this is with ~~atomotive~~ wet-dry ~~sand paper~~. You can find this in any automotive store~~, like Pep-Boys~~. I don't remember the grades, but using a fairly coarse grade wet sand the part. A crude but effective way to do this is to put the part in a ~~55 gallon~~ trash can filled with water. If this is impractical just be sure to keep the part wet. A hose set to a slow dribble works well.		The best way to do this is with automotive wet-dry sandpaper. You can find this in any automotive store. I don't remember the grades, but using a fairly coarse grade, wet sand the part. A crude but effective way to do this is to put the part in a large trash can filled with water. If this is impractical, just be sure to keep the part wet. A hose set to a slow dribble works well.

	You don't need to worry about being mirror smooth, just don't press too hard or you will make lines that will be difficult to hide later. Once the old paint (and the clear coat that is on top of the paint) are removed you prime it. I've heard that hanging the piece with an unbent hanger is a good way to go. Be sure to prime the whole piece at once. After letting it dry for as long as the can says, you apply a second coat. ~~Now, after~~ 15-20 minutes you're going to have to wet sand it again. Unlike before, ~~now~~ you're striving for a mirror smooth surface. When you take off too much primer in a spot, and you will, reprime the whole piece~~, don~~'t do spot priming. In my best piece, it took about 7 or 8 coats to get it perfect. Also, applying the primer needs to be done one coat after another, so make sure you have plenty of time.		You don't need to worry about being mirror smooth at first, just don't press too hard, or you will make lines that will be difficult to hide later. Once the old paint (and the clear coat that is on top of the paint) are removed, you prime it. I've heard that hanging the piece with an unbent hanger is a good way to go. Be sure to prime the whole piece at once. After letting it dry for as long as the can says, you apply a second coat. After 15-20 minutes you're going to have to wet sand it again. Unlike before, you're now striving for a mirror-smooth surface. When you take off too much primer in a spot, and you will, reprime the whole piece. Don't do spot priming. In my best piece, it took about 7 or 8 coats to get it perfect. Also, applying the primer needs to be done one coat after another, so make sure you have plenty of time.

	After 24 hours of drying, the easy stuff is all that's left. Use paint from the same manufacture of the primer. I don't remember the brand I used, but I got the primer, paint, and clear coat from the same company. Spray the paint 10-12 inches from the piece using long strokes~~, moving the~~ whole arm and not just your wrist. I'm sure you've seen commercials for body shops that ~~shop~~ the guy with the spray gun moving the entire length of the car without stopping; that's what ~~your~~ going for. Be sure to overlap the passes, but don't spray too long or too ~~slow~~ in any one spot or else drips and runs will form. If they do, let the paint dry a bit beyond being tacky and wet sand the run off. Apply 4-6 coats of paint.		After 24 hours of drying, the easy stuff is all that's left. Use paint from the same manufacture of the primer. I don't remember the brand I used, but I got the primer, paint, and clear coat from the same company. Spray the paint 10-12 inches from the piece, using long strokes. Move your whole arm and not just your wrist. I'm sure you've seen commercials for body shops that show the guy with the spray gun moving the entire length of the car without stopping; that's what you're going for. Be sure to overlap the passes, but don't spray too long or too slowly in any one spot, or else drips and runs will form. If they do, let the paint dry a bit beyond being tacky and wet sand the run off. Apply 4-6 coats of paint.

	After you ~~got~~ the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks) so I never had to do anything like that. Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.		After you get the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks) so I never had to do anything like that. Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.

	A few final things: the wet-dry paper. Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint but it'll take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when ~~your~~ almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.		A few final things: the wet-dry paper. Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint, but it'd take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when you're almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.

	As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie. dirt, ~~saw dust~~, mosquitoes, and ~~passerby's~~ wandering fingers. Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. I had a bunch of Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC that I ruined before I finally got it right. If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint. As for colors, when you go to the automotive store, they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.		As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie... dirt, sawdust, mosquitoes, and wandering fingers. Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. I had a bunch of Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC that I ruined before I finally got it right. If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint. As for colors, when you go to the automotive store, they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.

	'''For information on different paint types, and tips on which kind of paint to use, see:'''		'''For information on different paint types, and tips on which kind of paint to use, see:'''

Bokonon at 08:19, 3 June 2006

2006-06-03T08:19:05Z

New page

[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
====Read this article first: [http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm The GS Garage Motorcycle Repainting Project]====

'''A note, before you get started:'''

Painting is labor-intensive. Unless you've done it before, figure out about how long it's going to take you, then multiply that time by 5-10X. It involves a lot of tedious, repetitive sanding and prep work. So, plan on being patient and taking your time. That, or you can just spray truck bed liner on it like one of our Mighty Leaders and be worry-free for years.

'''The painting process, by one of our members'''

The best way to do this is with atomotive wet-dry sand paper. You can find this in any automotive store, like Pep-Boys. I don't remember the grades, but using a fairly coarse grade wet sand the part. A crude but effective way to do this is to put the part in a 55 gallon trash can filled with water. If this is impractical just be sure to keep the part wet. A hose set to a slow dribble works well.

You don't need to worry about being mirror smooth, just don't press too hard or you will make lines that will be difficult to hide later. Once the old paint (and the clear coat that is on top of the paint) are removed you prime it. I've heard that hanging the piece with an unbent hanger is a good way to go. Be sure to prime the whole piece at once. After letting it dry for as long as the can says, you apply a second coat. Now, after 15-20 minutes you're going to have to wet sand it again. Unlike before, now you're striving for a mirror smooth surface. When you take off too much primer in a spot, and you will, reprime the whole piece, don't do spot priming. In my best piece, it took about 7 or 8 coats to get it perfect. Also, applying the primer needs to be done one coat after another, so make sure you have plenty of time.

After 24 hours of drying, the easy stuff is all that's left. Use paint from the same manufacture of the primer. I don't remember the brand I used, but I got the primer, paint, and clear coat from the same company. Spray the paint 10-12 inches from the piece using long strokes, moving the whole arm and not just your wrist. I'm sure you've seen commercials for body shops that shop the guy with the spray gun moving the entire length of the car without stopping; that's what your going for. Be sure to overlap the passes, but don't spray too long or too slow in any one spot or else drips and runs will form. If they do, let the paint dry a bit beyond being tacky and wet sand the run off. Apply 4-6 coats of paint.

After you got the paint exactly how you want it, you need to seal it using clear coat. If there are any problems with the paint, now is the time to fix it. Apply the clear coat in the same manner as the paint. Apply 5-7 coats. Plastic parts don't need to be buffed the way metal parts do (like gas tanks) so I never had to do anything like that. Any automotive site should have articles on how to paint metal and get an excellent mirror finish.

A few final things: the wet-dry paper. Use your judgment on what grade to use. You could use 3000 grade to take off the clear coat and paint but it'll take three years. And likewise, don't use 500 grade when your almost done with the primer coats. The better the final level of primer is, the better the paint job will look.

As with any painting, use in a well ventilated space free of airborne particles, ie. dirt, saw dust, mosquitoes, and passerby's wandering fingers. Your best bet is to find something lying around that's made of hard plastic and is painted to practice on. I had a bunch of Starship Trooper popcorn tubs from AMC that I ruined before I finally got it right. If you’re worried about horribly screwing up the plastic that you just bought, relax. There is almost nothing you can do to the plastic that a body shop can’t undo and then repaint. As for colors, when you go to the automotive store, they’ll have more colors than you thought possible.

'''For information on different paint types, and tips on which kind of paint to use, see:'''

*If you're trying to match a factory color, check out [http://www.color-rite.com/ Color Rite].

*[http://www.duplicolor.com/solutions/faq.html Duplicolor FAQ Page]

*[http://www.colorrite.com/support.php Color Rite Tips & FAQ Page]