Installing a ZX600 shock - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Checking the pressure in the shock */

2009-04-01T21:39:08Z

Checking the pressure in the shock

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:39, 1 April 2009
Line 58:		Line 58:
	2. If you have a portable air tank, set the tank to the pressure you want to put in the shock, then let them equalize. This works whether you want to raise or lower the shock pressure. Don't trust the gauge on the tank; use your precision tire gauge on the tank's Schrader fill-valve.		2. If you have a portable air tank, set the tank to the pressure you want to put in the shock, then let them equalize. This works whether you want to raise or lower the shock pressure. Don't trust the gauge on the tank; use your precision tire gauge on the tank's Schrader fill-valve.

	If you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. Try putting the bike on its centerstand to minimize ~~this possibility~~. If this happens too many times, plan on either topping it off or changing the oil again.		If you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. Try putting the bike on its centerstand and adding a pump of air before checking pressure, to force any potential oil back into the shock and minimize leakage. If this happens too many times, plan on either topping it off or changing the oil again.

	Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Pressure settings are a matter of personal preference. One rider with an "A" series ('85-'87) uses about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series says he uses about 5 psi around town and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. One person with a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. All of these guys weigh in the 140-150 lb. range. You'll have to test for yourself and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.		Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Pressure settings are a matter of personal preference. One rider with an "A" series ('85-'87) uses about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series says he uses about 5 psi around town and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. One person with a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. All of these guys weigh in the 140-150 lb. range. You'll have to test for yourself and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.

Bokonon: /* Checking the pressure in the shock */

2009-03-07T11:26:41Z

Checking the pressure in the shock

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:26, 7 March 2009
Line 52:		Line 52:
	====Checking the pressure in the shock====		====Checking the pressure in the shock====

	~~Don~~'t use an air compressor, and ~~don't use a gauge. Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20~~.)		There are two ways to do this. Whatever you do, don't use an air compressor. The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again.

	~~[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump~~.~~jpg\|110px]]~~		1. Get a shock pump, or other '''low-volume''' pump, from a bicycle store. Make sure your bicycle pump is accurate at pressures as low as 5 or 10 psi. This may be difficult to find. The pump has to be low-volume; filling the reservoir slowly is important. This kind of pump may have to be combined with a pressure gauge that measures in 1 psi increments (see warning below) as most of them don't have gauges that read low enough for this application.

	~~The~~ air ~~reservoir can burst if~~ you put ~~too much pressure~~ in it, ~~and~~ then you ~~get~~ to ~~start all over again~~. ~~Likewise, if you put a~~ tire gauge on the ~~air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It~~'s ~~better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure~~.		2. If you have a portable air tank, set the tank to the pressure you want to put in the shock, then let them equalize. This works whether you want to raise or lower the shock pressure. Don't trust the gauge on the tank; use your precision tire gauge on the tank's Schrader fill-valve.

	Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. ~~Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure~~ settings. One ~~on the~~ "A" series ('85-'87) ~~used~~ about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series ~~said~~ he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. ~~The member who had~~ a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.		If you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. Try putting the bike on its centerstand to minimize this possibility. If this happens too many times, plan on either topping it off or changing the oil again.

			Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Pressure settings are a matter of personal preference. One rider with an "A" series ('85-'87) uses about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series says he uses about 5 psi around town and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. One person with a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. All of these guys weigh in the 140-150 lb. range. You'll have to test for yourself and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.

	====Notes====		====Notes====

Bokonon at 10:10, 7 March 2009

2009-03-07T10:10:59Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:10, 7 March 2009
Line 18:		Line 18:
	4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm, but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.		4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm, but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.

	5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.		5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of the lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg\|90px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg\|90px]]

Bokonon at 12:09, 12 September 2008

2008-09-12T12:09:49Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:09, 12 September 2008
Line 4:		Line 4:
	The ZX600 shock is a definite upgrade for your rear suspension. Most think it's better than the EX500 shock.		The ZX600 shock is a definite upgrade for your rear suspension. Most think it's better than the EX500 shock.

	The first thing you'll need to do is take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. Then check to see if it [~~['''Be sure to see the instructions for checking air pressure at the bottom~~.~~'''}}~~ holds pressure and [[ZX600 shock oil change\|change the oil]] before beginning the install. Most owners find they need little or no air in this shock, so that may not matter, but you should indubitably do an oil change.		The first thing you'll need to do is take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. Then check to see if it [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Installing_a_ZX600_shock#Checking_the_pressure_in_the_shock holds pressure] and [[ZX600 shock oil change\|change the oil]] before beginning the install. Most owners find they need little or no air in this shock, so that may not matter, but you should indubitably do an oil change.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg\|150px]]
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	[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg\|90px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg\|90px]]

	8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer. (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|OEM suppliers]]).		8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|OEM suppliers]]).

	For the assembly to line up, you need to raise the rear wheel because the new shock is shorter than the old. A piece of 3/4" plywood and a 2x4 will help lift it. Once you work the bolt through, tighten down the nut.		For the assembly to line up, you need to raise the rear wheel because the new shock is shorter than the old. A piece of 3/4" plywood and a 2x4 will help lift it. Once you work the bolt through, tighten down the nut.

Bokonon at 12:03, 12 September 2008

2008-09-12T12:03:38Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:03, 12 September 2008
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	[[Category:Suspension]]		[[Category:Suspension]]
	~~1986 ZX600 Rear Shock~~ Installation ~~on a 2004 Ninja 250~~		====Installation====

	~~This~~ shock ~~was $5 on eBay. (This was~~ a ~~while ago. As of April/May, 2006, not-too-rusty ones were going~~ for ~~$50-80 shipped.) Here are illustrated instructions on the installation~~. ~~It shouldn~~'~~t take more~~ than ~~an hour. (More notes at bottom of page)~~.		The ZX600 shock is a definite upgrade for your rear suspension. Most think it's better than the EX500 shock.

	~~Here's the shock. You~~'ll need to take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. ~~You should also~~ check to see if it ~~holds pressure before beginning the install.~~ '''Be sure to see the instructions for checking air pressure at the bottom.''' Most ~~ZX600 models~~ need little or no air.		The first thing you'll need to do is take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. Then check to see if it [['''Be sure to see the instructions for checking air pressure at the bottom.'''}} holds pressure and [[ZX600 shock oil change\|change the oil]] before beginning the install. Most owners find they need little or no air in this shock, so that may not matter, but you should indubitably do an oil change.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg\|150px]]
Line 16:		Line 16:
	3. With a 17mm socket, begin removing the upper shock mounting bolt. It threads into the frame, so there isn't a nut on the other side.		3. With a 17mm socket, begin removing the upper shock mounting bolt. It threads into the frame, so there isn't a nut on the other side.

	4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.		4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm, but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.

	5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.		5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg\|90px]]

	With both shocks out, you can compare the two. The ZX is much wider and heavier, but slightly shorter.		With both shocks out you can compare the two. The ZX is much wider and heavier, but slightly shorter.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_4.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_4.jpg\|150px]]

	6. Now you need to slide the ZX shock into position. This can be tricky. There is only one way the shock will sit correctly - the adjusting screw up top should be on the right - closer to the rear brake pedal. If it is reversed the screw will hit the frame and the shock will not align. Be careful not to harm the air line/connections. Insert the bolt (remember, there's no nut) and tighten it down.		6. Now you need to slide the ZX shock into position. This can be tricky. There is only one way the shock will sit correctly - the adjusting screw up top should be on the right - closer to the rear brake pedal. If it is reversed, the screw will hit the frame and the shock will not align. Be careful not to harm the air line/connections. Insert the bolt (remember, there's no nut) and tighten it down.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_5.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_5.jpg\|90px]]

	7. Before attaching to lower shock mounting bolt, assemble the arms.		7. Before attaching the lower shock mounting bolt, assemble the arms.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg\|90px]]

	8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer. (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|OEM suppliers]]).		8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer. (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|OEM suppliers]]).
Line 52:		Line 52:
	====Checking the pressure in the shock====		====Checking the pressure in the shock====

	~~'''~~Don't use an air compressor, and don't use a gauge.~~'''~~ Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20.)		Don't use an air compressor, and don't use a gauge. Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20.)

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump.jpg\|110px]]

	The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again. Likewise, if you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It's better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure.		The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again. Likewise, if you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It's better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure.
Line 60:		Line 60:
	Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure settings. One on the "A" series ('85-'87) used about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series said he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. The member who had a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.		Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure settings. One on the "A" series ('85-'87) used about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series said he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. The member who had a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.

			====Notes====
	~~'''~~Notes~~:'''~~

	*You can tell the difference the moment you sit on the saddle. It's much more stiff, with quicker rebound.		*You can tell the difference the moment you sit on the saddle. It's much more stiff, with quicker rebound.
Line 71:		Line 70:
	====What you're looking for====		====What you're looking for====

	You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).~~<br>~~		You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).
	'85-'87 ZX600A and '87 ZX600B ~~part # is~~ 45014-1307. '88-'97 ZX600C ~~is #~~45014-1367.
			Part numbers:

			*'85-'87 ZX600A and '87 ZX600B: 45014-1307.
			*'88-'97 ZX600C: 45014-1367.

	If it looks like this:		If it looks like this:

Bokonon at 19:13, 23 June 2007

2007-06-23T19:13:58Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:13, 23 June 2007
Line 34:		Line 34:
	[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg\|150px]]

	8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. For the assembly to line up, you need to raise the rear wheel because the new shock is shorter than the old. A piece of 3/4" plywood and a 2x4 will help lift it. Once you work the bolt through, tighten down the nut.		8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer. (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|OEM suppliers]]).

			For the assembly to line up, you need to raise the rear wheel because the new shock is shorter than the old. A piece of 3/4" plywood and a 2x4 will help lift it. Once you work the bolt through, tighten down the nut.

	[[Image:ZX600_shock_7.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:ZX600_shock_7.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 20:30, 9 June 2007

2007-06-09T20:30:07Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:30, 9 June 2007
Line 69:		Line 69:
	====What you're looking for====		====What you're looking for====

	You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).		You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).<br>
			'85-'87 ZX600A and '87 ZX600B part # is 45014-1307. '88-'97 ZX600C is #45014-1367.

	If it looks like this:		If it looks like this:

Bokonon at 05:21, 3 June 2006

2006-06-03T05:21:03Z

New page

[[Category:Suspension]]
1986 ZX600 Rear Shock Installation on a 2004 Ninja 250

This shock was $5 on eBay. (This was a while ago. As of April/May, 2006, not-too-rusty ones were going for $50-80 shipped.) Here are illustrated instructions on the installation. It shouldn't take more than an hour. (More notes at bottom of page).

Here's the shock. You'll need to take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. You should also check to see if it holds pressure before beginning the install. '''Be sure to see the instructions for checking air pressure at the bottom.''' Most ZX600 models need little or no air.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg|150px]]

1. Put your bike on the centerstand. Take off the seat and remove the left side panel with a phillips screwdriver. Set the plastic away from your work area to avoid damage to it.

2. Optional: Remove the coolant reservoir using a 10mm socket on the two bolts. Zip-tie the reservoir out of the way (the frame towards the front works). Here's what you're looking at now...

[[Image:ZX600_shock_2.jpg|150px]]

3. With a 17mm socket, begin removing the upper shock mounting bolt. It threads into the frame, so there isn't a nut on the other side.

4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.

5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg|150px]]

With both shocks out, you can compare the two. The ZX is much wider and heavier, but slightly shorter.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_4.jpg|150px]]

6. Now you need to slide the ZX shock into position. This can be tricky. There is only one way the shock will sit correctly - the adjusting screw up top should be on the right - closer to the rear brake pedal. If it is reversed the screw will hit the frame and the shock will not align. Be careful not to harm the air line/connections. Insert the bolt (remember, there's no nut) and tighten it down.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_5.jpg|150px]]

7. Before attaching to lower shock mounting bolt, assemble the arms.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg|150px]]

8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. For the assembly to line up, you need to raise the rear wheel because the new shock is shorter than the old. A piece of 3/4" plywood and a 2x4 will help lift it. Once you work the bolt through, tighten down the nut.

[[Image:ZX600_shock_7.jpg|150px]]

9. Now, about that air hose: It can be zip-tied along the top of the swingarm, or anywhere else that the valve can be accessed. You will want and need to check pressure and adjust as necessary. View from below:

[[Image:ZX600_shock_8.jpg|150px]]

The view from above:

[[Image:ZX600_shock_9.jpg|150px]]

10. Now, double check the upper mount, lower mount, and rod assembly bolts, throw the coolant reservoir back on, reattach the side panel, pop on the seat, and you have a MUCH better rear suspension than stock.

====Checking the pressure in the shock====

'''Don't use an air compressor, and don't use a gauge.''' Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20.)

[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump.jpg|150px]]

The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again. Likewise, if you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It's better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure.

Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure settings. One on the "A" series ('85-'87) used about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series said he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. The member who had a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.

'''Notes:'''

*You can tell the difference the moment you sit on the saddle. It's much more stiff, with quicker rebound.
*Experiment with the settings. Customize it to your weight/riding style.
*2-up riding is amazing compared to stock.
*The bike sits lower now, but there isn't as much sag while riding, so it ends up being about the same as the stock ride height.
*The centerstand is harder to use because the wheel is higher than before.

====What you're looking for====

You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).

If it looks like this:

[[Image:ZX600_shock_not_1.jpg|150px]]

Or like this:

[[Image:ZX600_shock_not_2.jpg|150px]]

It won't fit.

It has to look like Fat Boy here:

[[Image:ZX600_shock.jpg|150px]]