Installing emulators and springs - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Adjusting the emulators */

2011-12-06T20:31:33Z

Adjusting the emulators

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:31, 6 December 2011
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	====Adjusting the emulators====		====Adjusting the emulators====

	The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the ~~GVE's~~ installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.		The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVEs installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.

	====Conclusions====		====Conclusions====

Bokonon at 20:27, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T20:27:41Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:27, 6 December 2011
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	Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.		Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.

	Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.		Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil so that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.

	Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork ~~the distance~~ to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.		Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure the distance down from the top of the fork to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.

	Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|new circlip]]) back on:		Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|new circlip]]) back on:

Bokonon at 20:19, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T20:19:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:19, 6 December 2011
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	Step 14: De-burr and chamfer the holes, inside and out. Racetech instructs you to do this in the directions. When you chamfer the holes, you are essentially getting rid of the sharp 90-degree corners where you drilled the hole and replacing the straight line with a beveled edge. This makes the fluid (fork oil) flow better through the holes, which is why the extra holes are there in the first place.		Step 14: De-burr and chamfer the holes, inside and out. Racetech instructs you to do this in the directions. When you chamfer the holes, you are essentially getting rid of the sharp 90-degree corners where you drilled the hole and replacing the straight line with a beveled edge. This makes the fluid (fork oil) flow better through the holes, which is why the extra holes are there in the first place.

	One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small, circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.		One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.

	Another way would be to use a rotary tool (dremel) with a sanding bit. Do basically the same process as above. The dremel makes for light work, but it is much easier to make a mistake by removing too much material. It is also much easier to have an accident when chamfering the inner surface, since the tool is mostly inside the damper rod, and if/when it catches the wrong edge the tool can fling about violently. A drill bit on the dremel is most definitely the '''wrong''' tool for the job.		Another way would be to use a rotary tool (dremel) with a sanding bit. Do basically the same process as above. The dremel makes for light work, but it is much easier to make a mistake by removing too much material. It is also much easier to have an accident when chamfering the inner surface, since the tool is mostly inside the damper rod, and if/when it catches the wrong edge the tool can fling about violently. A drill bit on the dremel is most definitely the '''wrong''' tool for the job.

Bokonon at 20:06, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T20:06:04Z

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	[[image:18010131893.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131893.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work. ~~Our author recommends a~~ two-jaw puller~~. It~~ is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.		Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work for you. A two-jaw puller, like the one used here, is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.

	Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:		Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:

Bokonon at 20:01, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T20:01:45Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:01, 6 December 2011
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	Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.		Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.

	Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:		Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works.

	[[image:18010131880.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131880.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 05:05, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T05:05:17Z

Bokonon at 04:52, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T04:52:47Z

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	Here are the steps:		Here are the steps:

	Step 1. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Remove] your lower and upper fairings.		Step 1. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Remove]] your lower and upper fairings.

	Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.		Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.

Bokonon at 04:51, 6 December 2011

2011-12-06T04:51:58Z

Bokonon at 01:12, 5 May 2009

2009-05-05T01:12:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:12, 4 May 2009
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	Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was about 6 hours or so.		Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was about 6 hours or so.

			====Adjusting the emulators====

			The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVE's installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.

	====Conclusions/Results:====		====Conclusions/Results:====

Bokonon at 07:29, 12 July 2008

2008-07-12T07:29:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:29, 12 July 2008
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	[[image:18010132117.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010132117.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 14: De-burr and chamfer the holes, inside and out. ~~Those drill~~ holes ~~will have~~ to be ~~cleaned up~~. ~~Chamfering~~ the holes ~~should increase flow~~. ~~Racetech instructs you~~ to do this ~~in the directions~~. ~~Use~~ a rotary tool (dremel) to ~~smooth~~ the ~~holes~~. ~~Get one of~~ the ~~narrow sanding bits~~ for ~~your~~ dremel. ~~Then~~ use some sandpaper to smooth things out further~~. You could also probably use a circular file with good results~~.		Step 14: De-burr and chamfer the holes, inside and out. Racetech instructs you to do this in the directions. When you chamfer the holes, you are essentially getting rid of the sharp 90-degree corners where you drilled the hole and replacing the straight line with a beveled edge. This makes the fluid (fork oil) flow better through the holes, which is why the extra holes are there in the first place.

			One way to safely chamfer the hole would be to use a small, circular file. With the file held at a 45-degree angle to the rod, file evenly around the holes until the outside edge is beveled. Repeat for the inside edge. You'll need a file that has a smaller diameter than 5/16" (the diameter of the hole) in order to do this effectively.

			Another way would be to use a rotary tool (dremel) with a sanding bit. Do basically the same process as above. The dremel makes for light work, but it is much easier to make a mistake by removing too much material. It is also much easier to have an accident when chamfering the inner surface, since the tool is mostly inside the damper rod, and if/when it catches the wrong edge the tool can fling about violently. A drill bit on the dremel is most definitely the '''wrong''' tool for the job.

			Arguably the best way to make a beautiful chamfer for the outer surface is to use a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersink countersink drill bit] at the same time as the first hole is drilled. This will make a perfect chamfer on the outside edge. The inside edge will still require a tool like a dremel or a file.

			After chamfering, use some sandpaper to smooth things out further.

	Step 15: Clean up the modified damper rods. There will be lots of metal shavings. Spray brake cleaner in and out to clean things up.		Step 15: Clean up the modified damper rods. There will be lots of metal shavings. Spray brake cleaner in and out to clean things up.

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	[[image:18010132132.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010132132.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm) For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). ~~For me,~~ this equated to about 93mm.		Step 17: Now that the damper rod is back in place, the next major step is to measure out your fork spacers. For this part, see also [[Where can I get some preload spacers?]]

			The length of the fork spacers determines the preload setting for the fork spring. Longer = more preload. Sonic Springs recommends you set the preload to 1/2", so that's what was done. In order to measure this out, place the GVE atop the damper rod, followed by the new spring, followed by TWO washers (supplied by Sonic). Then, place the (not yet cut, long) spacer tube in and mark the tube at the top of the fork tube (let's call this length L). Next, measure (with the calipers) the width of the fork cap (~14mm) and the length down from the top of the fork tube to where the top of the fork cap sits (in the range of ~11mm) For 1/2" (12.7mm) of preload you want the top of the fork cap (with the spring uncompressed) to sit 1/2" above the ring-groove, so that means cutting the spacer to L - (14 + 11 - 12.7). On this bike that equated to about 93mm.

	Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.		Sonic springs gives you a long tube of PVC pipe to make the spacer. Cut the spacer to length and clean up the edges to prevent loose pieces of PVC from floating around.
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	Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.		Step 18: Add fork oil and bleed. This is done without the GVE or spring or anything else (other than the damper rod) in the fork tube. Add enough oil that when the fork is completely extended the oil still covers the inner tube. Pump the fork up and down a while until you hear (and see) no more air coming out. Not too complicated.

	Step 19: Assembly~~/Set~~ fork oil level~~: Now, as~~ gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point, so ~~that~~ you don't spill fork oil.		Step 19: Assembly and setting the fork oil level. As gently as possible so as to minimize a big splash of fork oil, drop the GVE down into the fork tube. Fully compress the fork. Measure from the top of the fork the distance to the fork oil. This is the important thing: the fork oil level. Racetech recommends 130mm of fork oil. Sonic Springs (and others on this website) suggest 115mm. 125mm was chosen by our rider. Remember to take your time. Set up a jig or something to hold the fork upright at this point so you don't spill fork oil.

	Step 20: Install the fork springs ~~after that~~, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. ~~Now place~~ the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|new circlip]]) back on:		Step 20: Install the fork springs, then a washer, then the spacer, then another washer. Place the fork cap back on. If everything is done correctly, the cap will be 1/2" (preload setting) above the ring. So, you'll have to compress the spring to get the circle/ring clip (or [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|new circlip]]) back on:

	[[image:18010132199-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010132199-2.jpg\|150px]]
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	Step 22: Use your trusty jaw puller tool to compress the spring and set the fork cap in place with the clip.		Step 22: Use your trusty jaw puller tool to compress the spring and set the fork cap in place with the clip.

	Step 23: ~~Now we want to set~~ the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp. Don't torque yet!!		Step 23: Set the fork height to (probably, depending on your goals) what it was before. That was 12mm above the top triple clamp on this bike. Don't torque yet!

	Step 24: Install the fender.		Step 24: Install the fender.
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	Step 25: Install the brake caliper. (torque 24 lb-ft)		Step 25: Install the brake caliper. (torque 24 lb-ft)

	Step 26: Install the front wheel. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)		Step 26: [[Reinstalling the front wheel\|Install the front wheel]]. (axle nut torque 65 lb-ft)

	Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using ~~to support the bike~~) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.		Step 27: With the front end still supported by the jack (or whatever you're using) loosen up each fork in the triple clamps (one at a time, not both) in order to reduce any kind of imperceptible imbalance in fork height between either side. Do this for one side, then re-tighten, then repeat for the other side.

	Step 28: Torque the pinch bolts in the triple clamps to spec. Upper is 14.5 lb-ft, lower is 22 lb-ft, according to the shop manual.		Step 28: Torque the pinch bolts in the triple clamps to spec. Upper is 14.5 lb-ft, lower is 22 lb-ft, according to the shop manual.
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	Step 32: Cautiously take your bike for a test ride.		Step 32: Cautiously take your bike for a test ride.

	Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was ~~about~~ 6 hours or so.		Total time for an experienced machine worker, but who was a total newbie to forks, including clean-up and lunch break, was 6 hours or so.

	====Adjusting the emulators====		====Adjusting the emulators====
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	The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVE's installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.		The Racetech instructions will tell you how to adjust these to your preference. Just note that after you have the GVE's installed, it's possible to remove them for adjustment by just dropping the handlebars, popping the fork caps, washers, spacers and springs, and fishing them out with a little loop of copper wire. There's no need to drop the wheel and remove the forks just to change those little adjustment springs.

	====Conclusions~~/Results:~~====		====Conclusions====

	Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ~~REALLY~~ soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!		From our owner: Like some other members have posted, the new suspension ''really'' soaks up bumps. It is incredible. I tested out some reflectors (you know, the kind on the lane markers) at 40 mph, and by and large there was very little energy transmitted to the handlebars. And yet the increased stiffness is very noticeable when it comes to braking--there is weight transfer (as there should be) but the dramatic nose-dive is eliminated. SCORE!

	I would definitely recommend the stiffer springs and the GVE's to anyone who is interested in riding their EX250 for anything longer than a year. It is worth it. I feel more confident and safer because the bike feels planted and responsive.		I would definitely recommend the stiffer springs and the GVE's to anyone who is interested in riding their EX250 for anything longer than a year. It is worth it. I feel more confident and safer because the bike feels planted and responsive.

	If anything, the great front suspension now highlights the weakness of the stock rear suspension...		If anything, the great front suspension now highlights the weakness of the stock rear suspension...

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:51, 6 December 2011
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	[[image:18010132021.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:18010132021.jpg\|100px]]

	As the spring rate was going to be upgraded, it was decided to get some better damping also. This came in the form of RaceTech [[Are Valve Emulators worthwhile?\|gold valve emulators]] ~~They came from [http://www.ronayers.com/ Ron Ayers], based on price and service~~.		As the spring rate was going to be upgraded, it was decided to get some better damping also. This came in the form of RaceTech [[Are Valve Emulators worthwhile?\|gold valve emulators]].

	Here are the steps:		Here are the steps:

	Step 1. Remove your lower and upper fairings.		Step 1. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Remove] your lower and upper fairings.

	Step 2. Remove cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.		Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.

	Step 3. Remove handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:		Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:

	[[image:18010131880.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131880.jpg\|150px]]
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	[[image:18010131893.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131893.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. ~~These guys~~ are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these ~~guys~~ that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.		Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?\|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.

	Step 4b: ~~So, what~~ you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:		Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:

	[[image:18010131949.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131949.jpg\|150px]]

	This makes light, less frustrating work. Maneuver one of the picks to sort of pry up the ring, then insert the other pick in order to leverage it out of there. The rings readily bend, so this is not too hard, though it may take a few minutes to master the technique.		This makes for light, less frustrating work. Maneuver one of the picks to sort of pry up the ring, then insert the other pick in order to leverage it out of there. The rings readily bend, so this is not too hard, though it may take a few minutes to master the technique.

	[[image:18010131929-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131929-2.jpg\|150px]]
	[[image:18010131951.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131951.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 4c: ~~Now, once~~ that ring is out of there, there is nothing (other than the jaw puller) holding the COMPRESSED spring in ~~there~~. At this time, put a shop towel or something soft on your gas tank so that if the cap flies out ~~of there~~ it doesn't ding your tank.		Step 4c: Once that ring is out of there, there is nothing (other than the jaw puller) holding the COMPRESSED spring in. At this time, put a shop towel or something soft on your gas tank so that if the cap flies out it doesn't ding your tank.

	Slowly, carefully, loosen the jaw puller and grab the cap before it ~~flies and hits your tank~~.		Slowly, carefully, loosen the jaw puller and grab the cap before it goes flying.

	Repeat this for the other fork.		Repeat this for the other fork.

	Step 5: Measure the fork height so you know what to set ~~the fork height~~ to when you reinstall. The spec is 12mm, and this bike was dead on. If your bike is set up differently, record the height so that you have an idea of what to set it to later. The picture is blurry, but you get the idea. The $10 Harbor Freight [http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/tutorial/ calipers] are useful for this kind of small measurement.		Step 5: Measure the fork height, so you know what to set it to when you reinstall. The spec is 12mm, and this bike was dead on. If your bike is set up differently, record the height so that you have an idea of what to set it to later. The picture is blurry, but you get the idea. The $10 Harbor Freight [http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/tutorial/ calipers] are useful for this kind of small measurement.

	[[image:18010131999.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131999.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 6: Unbolt the brake caliper and support it somehow. A coat hanger or piece of string/rope works:		Step 6: Unbolt the brake caliper and support it somehow. A coat hanger or piece of string or rope works:

	[[image:18010131941.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131941.jpg\|150px]]

	Step 7: ~~Next, remove~~ the front wheel (~~you~~ did remember to support the front end, right?). Don't lose the spacer, axle nut or axle nut washer!		Step 7: Remove the front wheel. (You did remember to support the front end, right?) Don't lose the spacer, axle nut or axle nut washer.

	Remove the 4 bolts holding the front fender.		Remove the 4 bolts holding on the front fender.

	Step 8: Now loosen the pinch bolts that clamp the forks to the triple tree. Hold the fork while you loosen the upper (12mm) and lower (14mm) bolts, in order to prevent the fork from violently falling to the ground. Slide it out gently.		Step 8: Now loosen the pinch bolts that clamp the forks to the triple tree. Hold the fork while you loosen the upper (12mm) and lower (14mm) bolts, in order to prevent the fork from violently falling to the ground. Slide it out gently.
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	You can remove the stock spacer, washer, and fork spring at this point. Some fork oil will come out, so be prepared with a shop towel.		You can remove the stock spacer, washer, and fork spring at this point. Some fork oil will come out, so be prepared with a shop towel.

	Step 9: Drain the old fork oil into a suitable container. Pump the fork to get most of it.		Step 9: Drain the old fork oil into a suitable container. Pump the fork to get most of it out.

	Step 10: Clean the inside of the forks with brake or parts cleaner. Pour/spray some in and pump the fork, then drain. When it comes out clean, that's good enough.		Step 10: Clean the inside of the forks with brake or parts cleaner. Pour or spray some in and pump the fork, then drain. When it comes out clean, that's good enough.

	Step 11: More disassembly. With the somewhat cleaned forks off the bike, you have to unbolt the damper rod from the fork in order to remove it. This requires a tool that most of us don't have, but (surprise surprise) Harbor Freight does for $12.99. It's a long hex key:		Step 11: More disassembly. With the somewhat cleaned forks off the bike, you have to unbolt the damper rod from the fork in order to remove it. This requires a tool that most of us don't have, but (surprise surprise) Harbor Freight does for $12.99. It's a long hex key:
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	[[image:18010131914.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010131914.jpg\|150px]]

	Some people talk about removing the damper rod with the forks on the bike. Our guy found that too unstable and felt that holding the fork in a vice was much easier and less frustrating. So, clamp it in a vice (clamp the flat-edged area that mates to the wheel) and use your 6mm hex bit socket to loosen it. A trusty Craftsman breaker bar with a not-so-small amount of force broke it loose. It does take quite a bit of effort, and the long hex key may flex, but you should be able to break it free with enough effort. FYI: If you don't have a breaker bar, you are INSANE! There are untold times when this is the best tool to use. Thread locker was on the damper rod, which probably explains the difficulty. An estimate of the force necessary to get it loose is about 60-70 lb-ft of torque.		[[How do I replace the fork seals?\|Some people]] talk about removing the damper rod with the forks on the bike. Our guy found that too unstable and felt that holding the fork in a vice was much easier and less frustrating. So, clamp it in a vice (clamp only the flat-edged area that mates to the wheel) and use your 6mm hex bit socket to loosen it. A trusty Craftsman breaker bar with a not-so-small amount of force broke it loose. It does take quite a bit of effort, and the long hex key may flex, but you should be able to break it free with enough effort. FYI: If you don't have a breaker bar, you are INSANE! There are untold times when this is the best tool to use. Thread locker was on the damper rod, which probably explains the difficulty. An estimate of the force necessary to get it loose is about 60-70 lb-ft of torque.

	~~Once~~ this ~~guy is out~~, the damper rod and top-out spring will be released and you can remove them.		With this done, the damper rod and top-out spring will be released and you can remove them.

	Aside A: Gold valve emulators! These pictures give you an idea of how the emulator sits atop the damper rod.		Aside A: Gold valve emulators! These pictures give you an idea of how the emulator sits atop the damper rod.
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	[[image:18010132096.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010132096.jpg\|150px]]

	We are now ready to start following the directions that are supplied with the ~~GVE's~~. The summary is:		We are now ready to start following the directions that are supplied with the GVEs. The summary is:

	(a) drill out the old compression damping hole to 5/16" and add four more 5/16" holes to de-restrict the damping.		(a) drill out the old compression damping hole to 5/16" and add four more 5/16" holes to de-restrict the damping.
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	(b) measure out new spacers		(b) measure out new spacers

	(c) set fork oil level		(c) set the fork oil level

	(d) button up the fork		(d) button up the fork
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	Step 15: Clean up the modified damper rods. There will be lots of metal shavings. Spray brake cleaner in and out to clean things up.		Step 15: Clean up the modified damper rods. There will be lots of metal shavings. Spray brake cleaner in and out to clean things up.

	~~'''~~From here on, try to be as clean as possible. Don't let foreign objects/debris fall into your forks.~~'''~~		From here on, try to be as clean as possible. Don't let foreign objects or debris fall into your forks.

	Step 16: ~~Now, put~~ the damper rod and the top-out spring back into the fork tube. Install the fork spring to press the damper rod to the end and hold it in place. Then screw in the damper rod bolt ~~that we earlier removed~~. Torque this to 14.5 lb-ft ~~(according to manual):~~		Step 16: Put the damper rod and the top-out spring back into the fork tube. Install the fork spring to press the damper rod to the end and hold it in place. Then screw in the damper rod bolt. Torque this to 14.5 lb-ft.

	[[image:18010132132.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:18010132132.jpg\|150px]]