Reinstalling the front wheel - Revision history

Bokonon at 02:08, 27 April 2009

2009-04-27T02:08:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:08, 26 April 2009
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	First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.		First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.

	The first problem to overcome is to make sure that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive ~~'''((gear???))'''~~. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (both are circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (~~barely visible in the diagram~~) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel.		The first problem to overcome is to make sure that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (both are circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (41060) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel (41064).

	[[image:speedo gear.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:speedo gear.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 13:38, 26 April 2009

2009-04-26T13:38:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:38, 26 April 2009
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	First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.		First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.

	The first problem ~~occurs while ensuring~~ that the speedo drive ~~'''((gear???))'''~~ meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive '''((gear???))'''. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (barely visible in the diagram) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel.		The first problem to overcome is to make sure that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive '''((gear???))'''. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (both are circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (barely visible in the diagram) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel.

	[[image:speedo gear.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:speedo gear.jpg\|150px]]

	~~That "giving the wheel a spin" before tightening probably drops the tab on the gear right into the notch on the wheel.~~

	The second problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the speedo drive. Look carefully and you'll see one post on the speedo drive and two on the fork tube. You need to get the speedo drive post in between the two posts on the fork tube. When it's in position, the speedometer cable should go up from the drive approximately parallel to the fork tube. The picture below has one of the tabs on the fork circled. There are two of them, and the raised bump on the speedo housing fits between them.		The second problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the speedo drive. Look carefully and you'll see one post on the speedo drive and two on the fork tube. You need to get the speedo drive post in between the two posts on the fork tube. When it's in position, the speedometer cable should go up from the drive approximately parallel to the fork tube. The picture below has one of the tabs on the fork circled. There are two of them, and the raised bump on the speedo housing fits between them.

Bokonon at 13:23, 26 April 2009

2009-04-26T13:23:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:23, 26 April 2009
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	The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive '''((gear???))'''. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (barely visible in the diagram) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel.		The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive '''((gear???))'''. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (barely visible in the diagram) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel.

	[[image:speedo gear.~~bmp~~\|150px]]		[[image:speedo gear.jpg\|150px]]

	That "giving the wheel a spin" before tightening probably drops the tab on the gear right into the notch on the wheel.		That "giving the wheel a spin" before tightening probably drops the tab on the gear right into the notch on the wheel.

Bokonon at 13:22, 26 April 2009

2009-04-26T13:22:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:22, 26 April 2009
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	First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.		First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.

	The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (circled). The ~~notches~~ on the ~~part on the wheel need to have the raised portion~~ (~~it's~~ barely visible in the ~~photo~~) on the ~~speedo gear in them~~.		The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive '''((gear???))'''. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (circled). The raised portion on the speedo gear (barely visible in the diagram) needs to go in the notches on the part on the wheel.

	[[image:speedo gear.bmp\|150px]]		[[image:speedo gear.bmp\|150px]]

Bokonon at 13:13, 26 April 2009

2009-04-26T13:13:37Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:13, 26 April 2009
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	[[Category:Tires]]		[[Category:Tires]]
	Putting the front wheel back on is pretty straightforward, with one exception: the speedometer drive. If you don't have the speedo drive aligned properly with the nubs on the fork , the slightest bit of torque on the axle nut will cause the wheel to be nigh on impossible to move.		Putting the front wheel back on is pretty straightforward, with one exception: the speedometer drive. If you don't have the speedo drive aligned properly with the nubs on the fork, the slightest bit of torque on the axle nut will cause the wheel to be nigh on impossible to move.

	First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.		First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.

	The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). ~~Below is the Kawasaki~~ parts diagram ~~with~~ the two pieces that need to fit together circled. The notches on the part on the wheel need to have the raised portion (it's barely visible in the photo) on the speedo gear in them.		The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). This parts diagram shows the two pieces that need to fit together (circled). The notches on the part on the wheel need to have the raised portion (it's barely visible in the photo) on the speedo gear in them.

	[[image:speedo gear.bmp\|150px]]		[[image:speedo gear.bmp\|150px]]
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	[[image:Forktabs.JPG\|150px]]		[[image:Forktabs.JPG\|150px]]

			If you're WAY off, like 20 degrees, you can actually reassemble the wheel usably, because the posts aren't interfering with each other, but it's wrong and will allow a lot of play in the speedo drive. There should be a little (1/8") rotational play, but not much. Once you think you have everything lined up, give the wheel a spin before you put the nut on. That should tell you if everything is in the right place or not.

	One other thing: Pay special attention to the lip seal on the speedo drive. It is thin and easy to fold over when installing the front wheel. The result is an annoying squeak at parking lot speed.		One other thing: Pay special attention to the lip seal on the speedo drive. It is thin and easy to fold over when installing the front wheel. The result is an annoying squeak at parking lot speed.

Bokonon at 13:04, 26 April 2009

2009-04-26T13:04:06Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:04, 26 April 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Tires]]		[[Category:Tires]]
	Putting the front wheel back on is pretty straightforward, with one exception: the speedometer drive. If you don't have the speedo drive aligned properly with the nubs on the fork ~~(or more correctly, aligned just wrong)~~, the slightest bit of torque on the axle nut will cause the wheel to be nigh on impossible to move.		Putting the front wheel back on is pretty straightforward, with one exception: the speedometer drive. If you don't have the speedo drive aligned properly with the nubs on the fork , the slightest bit of torque on the axle nut will cause the wheel to be nigh on impossible to move.

	First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order~~, ensuring that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel~~.		First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order.

	~~[[image:Fr~~ wheel ~~assy~~.~~jpg\|150px]]~~		The first problem occurs while ensuring that the speedo drive '''((gear???))''' meshes with the teeth in the wheel. You have to line up the notches in the wheel with the notches on the speedo drive. Get those inner notches lined up, then spin the wheel a tad to line up the notches on the fork and speedo (see below). Below is the Kawasaki parts diagram with the two pieces that need to fit together circled. The notches on the part on the wheel need to have the raised portion (it's barely visible in the photo) on the speedo gear in them.

	~~The problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the~~ speedo drive. The drive housing has two tabs on it, which are clearly meant to engage in two tabs molded into the lower fork housing. Unfortunately, the parts diagram doesn't really show this detail. If those tabs don't mesh correctly, extra pressure will be applied to the speedo drive housing, pressing it into the wheel. The extra friction should be quite noticeable.		[[image:speedo gear.bmp\|150px]]

	The ~~correct orientation~~ is to ~~have~~ the ~~tab~~ on the speedo ~~housing which is further from~~ the ~~cable attachment point set~~ in between the fork's tabs.		That "giving the wheel a spin" before tightening probably drops the tab on the gear right into the notch on the wheel.

			The second problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the speedo drive. Look carefully and you'll see one post on the speedo drive and two on the fork tube. You need to get the speedo drive post in between the two posts on the fork tube. When it's in position, the speedometer cable should go up from the drive approximately parallel to the fork tube. The picture below has one of the tabs on the fork circled. There are two of them, and the raised bump on the speedo housing fits between them.

			[[image:Forktabs.JPG\|150px]]

			One other thing: Pay special attention to the lip seal on the speedo drive. It is thin and easy to fold over when installing the front wheel. The result is an annoying squeak at parking lot speed.

	Shown below are closeups of a correctly-installed speedo drive housing.		Shown below are closeups of a correctly-installed speedo drive housing.

Bokonon at 12:30, 20 April 2009

2009-04-20T12:30:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:30, 20 April 2009
Line 4:		Line 4:
	First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order, ensuring that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel.		First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order, ensuring that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel.

	[[image:Fr wheel assy.jpg\|~~300px~~]]		[[image:Fr wheel assy.jpg\|150px]]

	The problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the speedo drive. The drive housing has two tabs on it, which are clearly meant to engage in two tabs molded into the lower fork housing. Unfortunately, the parts diagram doesn't really show this detail. If those tabs don't mesh correctly, extra pressure will be applied to the speedo drive housing, pressing it into the wheel. The extra friction should be quite noticeable.		The problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the speedo drive. The drive housing has two tabs on it, which are clearly meant to engage in two tabs molded into the lower fork housing. Unfortunately, the parts diagram doesn't really show this detail. If those tabs don't mesh correctly, extra pressure will be applied to the speedo drive housing, pressing it into the wheel. The extra friction should be quite noticeable.
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	[[image:img_4709.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:img_4709.jpg\|150px]]
	[[image:img_4710.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:img_4710.jpg\|150px]]
			[[image:img_4711.jpg\|150px]]

	~~[[image:img_4711.jpg\|150px]]~~
	[[image:img_4712.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:img_4712.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 12:24, 20 April 2009

2009-04-20T12:24:49Z

New page

[[Category:Tires]]
Putting the front wheel back on is pretty straightforward, with one exception: the speedometer drive. If you don't have the speedo drive aligned properly with the nubs on the fork (or more correctly, aligned just wrong), the slightest bit of torque on the axle nut will cause the wheel to be nigh on impossible to move.

First, take careful note of the bits and pieces that come off when you pull out the axle: axle, right-side spacer, speedo drive, washer, crown nut and cotter pin. Reassemble it all in the same order, ensuring that the speedo drive meshes with the teeth in the wheel.

[[image:Fr wheel assy.jpg|300px]]

The problem many people have is related to the rotational position of the speedo drive. The drive housing has two tabs on it, which are clearly meant to engage in two tabs molded into the lower fork housing. Unfortunately, the parts diagram doesn't really show this detail. If those tabs don't mesh correctly, extra pressure will be applied to the speedo drive housing, pressing it into the wheel. The extra friction should be quite noticeable.

The correct orientation is to have the tab on the speedo housing which is further from the cable attachment point set in between the fork's tabs.

Shown below are closeups of a correctly-installed speedo drive housing.

[[image:img_4709.jpg|150px]]
[[image:img_4710.jpg|150px]]

[[image:img_4711.jpg|150px]]
[[image:img_4712.jpg|150px]]