Replacing the wheel bearings - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Removal of old bearings */

2010-07-24T14:54:26Z

Removal of old bearings

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:54, 24 July 2010
Line 48:		Line 48:
	Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.		Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.

	[[image:HF bearing puller.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:HF bearing puller.jpg\|100px]]

	If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").		If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

Bokonon: /* Removal of old bearings */

2010-07-24T14:53:48Z

Removal of old bearings

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:53, 24 July 2010
Line 47:		Line 47:

	Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.		Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.

			[[image:HF bearing puller.jpg\|150px]]

	If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").		If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

Bokonon at 14:47, 24 July 2010

2010-07-24T14:47:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:47, 24 July 2010
Line 12:		Line 12:
	If a bearing is bad enough that it needs to be replaced, you will usually be able to hear it making more noise than usual when you're riding. You should also be in the habit of checking the bearings every time you have the wheel off, and [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings\|regreasing them]] as necessary.		If a bearing is bad enough that it needs to be replaced, you will usually be able to hear it making more noise than usual when you're riding. You should also be in the habit of checking the bearings every time you have the wheel off, and [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings\|regreasing them]] as necessary.

	When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace, and should be done if there is any question.		When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace and should be done if there is any question.

	==How to find replacement bearings==		==How to find replacement bearings==
Line 20:		Line 20:
	The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.		The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.

	~~The body of the bearing~~ part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.		Bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

	Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:		Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:
Line 64:		Line 64:
	==Installation of new bearings==		==Installation of new bearings==

	For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.		For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' You only want to put pressure on the '''outer''' race (the outside rim of the bearing). You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.

	Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?		Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?

	The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.		The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.

Bokonon: /* How to find replacement bearings */

2010-05-26T20:02:10Z

How to find replacement bearings

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:02, 26 May 2010
Line 18:		Line 18:
	What you'll find when you pull the wheel off and look are two bearings and a tube of some soft metal that runs between the inner races. When you snug the axle down, it pulls everything tight on the center race of the wheel bearing, and that should be the ONLY place it's tight. But stock bearings are only sealed on one side and usually won't last the life of the bike. You want to replace them with double sealed bearings. These will have the same part number, but will have an SS or ZZ at the end of the number.		What you'll find when you pull the wheel off and look are two bearings and a tube of some soft metal that runs between the inner races. When you snug the axle down, it pulls everything tight on the center race of the wheel bearing, and that should be the ONLY place it's tight. But stock bearings are only sealed on one side and usually won't last the life of the bike. You want to replace them with double sealed bearings. These will have the same part number, but will have an SS or ZZ at the end of the number.

	The easiest way to find the part # you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://~~www~~.ronayers.com/~~fiche/getyear~~.cfm~~?man=ka&groupid=3060~~ Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part ~~#'s~~ for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.		The easiest way to find the part number you need before you start disassembling everything is to go to the [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki Ron Ayers parts fiche] and look up the part numbers for your year of bike. Yes, every year should be the same, but you need to be sure. You don't, however, have to (or want to) order them there, or even at a bike shop. Search out the bearing supply place closest to you. If you can't find one, a good auto parts shop should have what you need.

	The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part ~~#'s~~. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.		The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part numbers. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

	Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:		Here's what you should find when looking up the part numbers for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

	'''Front'''		'''Front'''

Bokonon at 13:53, 22 October 2009

2009-10-22T13:53:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:53, 22 October 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Final Drive]]		[[Category:Final Drive]]
	====How to tell when your bearings need replacement====		==How to tell when your bearings need replacement==

	Wheel bearings are generally treated in an “out of sight, out of mind” manner, but these few little pieces of metal are what keep your wheels going round and round.		Wheel bearings are generally treated in an “out of sight, out of mind” manner, but these few little pieces of metal are what keep your wheels going round and round.
Line 14:		Line 14:
	When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace, and should be done if there is any question.		When inspecting, keep these things in mind. If they're notchy (don't turn smoothly) when you turn the wheel by hand, they need to be replaced. Also, if there's any lateral play (the wheel moves side-to-side) they need to be replaced. They should be a little stiff to turn by hand, but not very stiff if you're rolling the wheel while it's still on the bike. Bearings are dirt cheap to replace, and should be done if there is any question.

	====How to find replacement bearings====		==How to find replacement bearings==

	What you'll find when you pull the wheel off and look are two bearings and a tube of some soft metal that runs between the inner races. When you snug the axle down, it pulls everything tight on the center race of the wheel bearing, and that should be the ONLY place it's tight. But stock bearings are only sealed on one side and usually won't last the life of the bike. You want to replace them with double sealed bearings. These will have the same part number, but will have an SS or ZZ at the end of the number.		What you'll find when you pull the wheel off and look are two bearings and a tube of some soft metal that runs between the inner races. When you snug the axle down, it pulls everything tight on the center race of the wheel bearing, and that should be the ONLY place it's tight. But stock bearings are only sealed on one side and usually won't last the life of the bike. You want to replace them with double sealed bearings. These will have the same part number, but will have an SS or ZZ at the end of the number.
Line 42:		Line 42:
	For more information on bearings, see [[A brief guide to bearings\|this FAQ article]].		For more information on bearings, see [[A brief guide to bearings\|this FAQ article]].

	====Removal of old bearings====		==Removal of old bearings==

	Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself\|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.		Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself\|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.
Line 50:		Line 50:
	If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").		If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

	====Tools to ease this chore====		===Tools to ease this chore===

	~~'''~~Shop heater~~'''~~		====Shop heater====

	One tool that makes installation/removal easier is a forced air shop heater. Hold the wheel hub in front of it until it's around 200 deg F. The expansion from the heat makes it marginally easier to remove the old bearings. This also works for installation. Leave the new bearings in your freezer until you're ready for installation, and install them into the heated hub. It reduces the amount of interference just enough to make it easy to tap in the new bearings.		One tool that makes installation/removal easier is a forced air shop heater. Hold the wheel hub in front of it until it's around 200 deg F. The expansion from the heat makes it marginally easier to remove the old bearings. This also works for installation. Leave the new bearings in your freezer until you're ready for installation, and install them into the heated hub. It reduces the amount of interference just enough to make it easy to tap in the new bearings.

	~~'''~~Heat gun~~'''~~		====Heat gun====

	You can use a heat gun on the hub to expand it. Otherwise, a bit of metal may be removed every time you remove or replace a bearing. Some wheels even get ruined this way.		You can use a heat gun on the hub to expand it. Otherwise, a bit of metal may be removed every time you remove or replace a bearing. Some wheels even get ruined this way.
Line 62:		Line 62:
	The heat gun works like this: The wheel (and the hub, where the bearing goes) is made of aluminum, while the bearing is made of steel. Aluminum expands faster than steel, so even if both are heated to the same temperature, the interference fit relaxes and the bearing becomes easy to remove. Again, leave the new bearings in your freezer until you're ready for installation, and install them into the heated hub.		The heat gun works like this: The wheel (and the hub, where the bearing goes) is made of aluminum, while the bearing is made of steel. Aluminum expands faster than steel, so even if both are heated to the same temperature, the interference fit relaxes and the bearing becomes easy to remove. Again, leave the new bearings in your freezer until you're ready for installation, and install them into the heated hub.

	====Installation of new bearings====		==Installation of new bearings==

	For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.		For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.

Bokonon at 05:11, 12 July 2008

2008-07-12T05:11:42Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:11, 12 July 2008
Line 24:		Line 24:
	Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:		Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

	Front		'''Front'''

	*two #6202 - 15mm ID / 35mm OD		*two #6202 - 15mm ID / 35mm OD

	Rear		'''Rear'''

	* one #6203 - 17mm ID / 40mm OD		* one #6203 - 17mm ID / 40mm OD
Line 45:		Line 45:

	Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself\|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.		Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself\|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.

			Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.

	If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").		If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

Bokonon: /* Removal of old bearings */

2008-06-14T20:45:38Z

Removal of old bearings

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:45, 14 June 2008
Line 44:		Line 44:
	====Removal of old bearings====		====Removal of old bearings====

	Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself\|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets ~~Motion Pro~~ 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.		Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself\|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.

	If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set~~, and many people don't~~, you can get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").		If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

	====Tools to ease this chore====		====Tools to ease this chore====

Bokonon: /* How to find replacement bearings */

2008-06-14T20:42:37Z

How to find replacement bearings

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:42, 14 June 2008
Line 21:		Line 21:

	The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part #'s. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.		The body of the bearing part numbers are fairly universal (ie... a #6203 bearing from any brand will be the same, fit-wise). There are two wheel bearings for the front (usually the same). There are three in the rear: one on each side and one in the sprocket carrier. These are usually three different part #'s. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes where. You don't want to be trying to pound your new bearing into the wrong place.

			Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

			Front

			*two #6202 - 15mm ID / 35mm OD

			Rear

			* one #6203 - 17mm ID / 40mm OD
			* one #6303 - 17mm ID / 47mm OD
			* Sprocket carrier: one #6205 - 25mm ID / 52mm OD

	Again: You don't want OEM bearings. They're single seal bearings. You should find instead a fully sealed (double seal) variant. Also, don't be surprised if the bearing that fits isn't listed as a wheel bearing; the front wheel bearing that fits the 250 and the Concours (same bearing) is usually listed as an alternator bearing. The double sealed bearings are maintenance free; if they get "notchy", toss 'em and replace 'em.		Again: You don't want OEM bearings. They're single seal bearings. You should find instead a fully sealed (double seal) variant. Also, don't be surprised if the bearing that fits isn't listed as a wheel bearing; the front wheel bearing that fits the 250 and the Concours (same bearing) is usually listed as an alternator bearing. The double sealed bearings are maintenance free; if they get "notchy", toss 'em and replace 'em.

Bokonon: /* Installation of new bearings */

2008-06-12T02:34:15Z

Installation of new bearings

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:34, 11 June 2008
Line 50:		Line 50:
	====Installation of new bearings====		====Installation of new bearings====

	For putting the new bearings in~~, once you have them heated up~~, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.		For putting the new bearings in, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.

	Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?		Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?

	The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.		The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.

Bokonon at 13:51, 30 January 2008

2008-01-30T13:51:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:51, 30 January 2008
Line 26:		Line 26:
	If you're having trouble finding your bearings, try looking at places that sell/work on ATVs or snowmobiles. They use many of the same bearings we do.		If you're having trouble finding your bearings, try looking at places that sell/work on ATVs or snowmobiles. They use many of the same bearings we do.

	If you already have the bearings out of the wheel, the process is even simpler. Look at the side of the bearing's outer race (the part that touches the wheel). There should be a number there. That will be either a bearing industry number (or a variation thereof that you can decode), or a size (which would look something like 25x12). With that, you can walk into the store and match it up. It'll be even easier if you can carry the old bearing in. ~~SKF is~~ a respected manufacturer of bearings~~. If your supplier doesn't carry SKF, ask for the best they have~~. There's no use tearing all this stuff apart just to put a Chinese bearing in there.		If you already have the bearings out of the wheel, the process is even simpler. Look at the side of the bearing's outer race (the part that touches the wheel). There should be a number there. That will be either a bearing industry number (or a variation thereof that you can decode), or a size (which would look something like 25x12). With that, you can walk into the store and match it up. It'll be even easier if you can carry the old bearing in. Get bearings from a [[A_brief_guide_to_bearings#Quality\|respected manufacturer]] of bearings. There's no use tearing all this stuff apart just to put a Chinese bearing in there.

	For more information on bearings, see [[A brief guide to bearings\|this FAQ article]].		For more information on bearings, see [[A brief guide to bearings\|this FAQ article]].
Line 52:		Line 52:
	For putting the new bearings in, once you have them heated up, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.		For putting the new bearings in, once you have them heated up, all you need to do is hammer them in. '''Important:''' ''You only want to put pressure on the outer race (the outside rim of the bearing)''. You can do this with a bearing seating kit (check auto parts stores), or a socket that you carefully hold in place so you don't hit the bearings. You can also disassemble an old bearing and use only the outer race, with a piece of wood on top of it, to drive the new bearing in.

	Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the ~~bearing~~ in the freezer until just before you install them?		Did you happen to notice the part where we said to leave the bearings in the freezer until just before you install them?

	The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.		The new bearings should last significantly longer than your stock ones.