Bike mods for beginners: Difference between revisions

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Here are some decent first mods for newer riders. Keep in mind that, given proper maintenance, the bike works just fine as it is. Your Ninja 250 doesn't have to be perfect right away. Concentrate on making it safe and roadworthy, and on you learning to ride it, before you get caught up in what other people think you should do.

* [[Tires|New tires]] - If you have an F series EX250 (88-07) the stock Dunlop K630s never were that great in the first place, and by now they're old, anyway. If you have a newer J model (08-->) then you have to decide whether the IRC tires (09+) are OK for you. Whatever you do, don't replace ~~them~~ with the same model. The bike was built to a low price point, and the ~~stock~~ tires reflect this. Check the FAQ tire models page for your bike, and get a set that's appropriate for your riding style. Tires are part of the suspension and the brakes, so not only ~~will~~ they help handling, ~~they'll~~ also allow you to stop better.

* [[Tires|New tires]] - If you have an F series EX250 (88-07) the stock Dunlop K630s never were that great in the first place, and by now they're old, anyway. If you have a newer J model (08-->) then you have to decide whether the IRC tires (09+) are OK for you. Whatever you do, don't replace the stock tires with the same model. The bike was built to a low price point, and the tires reflect this. Check the FAQ tire models page for your bike, and get a set that's appropriate for your riding style. Tires are part of the suspension and the brakes, so not only do they help handling, good tires also allow you to stop better.

* Conspicuity - This is a general term to describe "being seen". Check the [[Protective Gear|Gear]] section of the FAQ, along with [[Electrical & Lighting]], which features items such as better brake lights, headlight bulb upgrades, headlight modulators, and better horns.

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==First mods that are a good idea==

* Flush mount front signals - Look better and lessen the possibility of the signal stalks punching a hole in the fairing.

* [[I want to put flush-mount flashers on the front|Flush mount front signals]] - Look better and lessen the possibility of the signal stalks punching a hole in the fairing. (If you have a 2006 or newer model with flexible stalks, this may not apply to you.)

* Brake lights in pods and/or extra brake lights

* [[Lights & Bulbs|Brake lights]] in pods and/or extra brake lights

* Seat - Spencer or DIY mods make distance riding way more comfortable and are pretty inexpensive.

* [[Bodywork & Frame|Seat]] - Spencer or DIY mods make distance riding way more comfortable and are pretty inexpensive.

* Horn - Because the stock one sucks.

* [[I want a louder horn|Horn]] - Because the stock one sucks.

* Taller windscreen - Considered by many to be a must for extended high-speed riding.

* [[I want a new windscreen|Taller windscreen]] - Considered by many to be a must for extended high-speed riding.

* Gel grips - Reduce vibration from the bars; notice that doesn't say 'eliminate'.

* [[I want to get some new grips|Gel grips]] - Reduce vibration from the bars; notice that doesn't say 'eliminate'.

* 15 ~~Tooth~~ front sprocket - Reduces cruising rpm and makes the bike more useful overall.

* [[I want to change my gearing|15 tooth front sprocket]] - Reduces cruising rpm and makes the bike more useful overall.

==Mods you should avoid until you know what you're doing==

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* [[Suspension]] - This is the performance mod that will provide the most benefit. Start with Sonic springs in the right rate for you, along with new fork oil. For the rear, check the reviews of various shocks that people have used on the 250. If you have the funds, an aftermarket shock such as Works Performance or Hagon (bolt-on) or Fox (modification sometimes required) will be a big improvement.

* [[Brakes]] - if your bike is over four years old, it's time for new brake lines, anyway. You might as well make them stainless steel. They give better feel and performance for the same amount of money. There's nothing terribly wrong with the stock pads, but upgrading to an aftermarket set of HH pads will give you better stopping power. Be advised that putting on new pads and stainless lines necessitates practicing quick stops, otherwise you WILL lock up the front in an emergency. Practice, practice, practice.

* [[Brakes]] - If your bike is over four years old, it's time for new brake lines, anyway. You might as well make them stainless steel. They give better feel and performance for the same amount of money. There's nothing terribly wrong with the stock pads, but upgrading to an aftermarket set of HH pads will give you better stopping power. Be advised that putting on new pads and stainless lines necessitates practicing quick stops, otherwise you WILL lock up the front in an emergency. Practice, practice, practice.

It's really hard to tell if what you did is ''better'' when you don't have a baseline for comparison. For instance, there is a tendency for new riders to make their suspension too stiff. It might be all right for that Saturday morning jaunt through the woods, but if you take off for Peoria one day, you may find that your body hurts more than what you'd like it to.

This is why it's important to first ride for a while and get a feel for what the bike (and you) can do. Figure out what works well, what feels a little off, and where it's not performing well. Then you can reasonably address the issues.

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 Here are some decent first mods for newer riders. Keep in mind that, given proper maintenance, the bike works just fine as it is. Your Ninja 250 doesn't have to be perfect right away. Concentrate on making it safe and roadworthy, and on you learning to ride it, before you get caught up in what other people think you should do.
-* [[Tires|New tires]] - If you have an F series EX250 (88-07) the stock Dunlop K630s never were that great in the first place, and by now they're old, anyway. If you have a newer J model (08-->) then you have to decide whether the IRC tires (09+) are OK for you. Whatever you do, don't replace them with the same model. The bike was built to a low price point, and the stock tires reflect this. Check the FAQ tire models page for your bike, and get a set that's appropriate for your riding style. Tires are part of the suspension and the brakes, so not only will they help handling, they'll also allow you to stop better.
+* [[Tires|New tires]] - If you have an F series EX250 (88-07) the stock Dunlop K630s never were that great in the first place, and by now they're old, anyway. If you have a newer J model (08-->) then you have to decide whether the IRC tires (09+) are OK for you. Whatever you do, don't replace the stock tires with the same model. The bike was built to a low price point, and the tires reflect this. Check the FAQ tire models page for your bike, and get a set that's appropriate for your riding style. Tires are part of the suspension and the brakes, so not only do they help handling, good tires also allow you to stop better.
 * Conspicuity - This is a general term to describe "being seen". Check the [[Protective Gear|Gear]] section of the FAQ, along with [[Electrical & Lighting]], which features items such as better brake lights, headlight bulb upgrades, headlight modulators, and better horns.
@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 ==First mods that are a good idea==
-* Flush mount front signals - Look better and lessen the possibility of the signal stalks punching a hole in the fairing.
+* [[I want to put flush-mount flashers on the front|Flush mount front signals]] - Look better and lessen the possibility of the signal stalks punching a hole in the fairing. (If you have a 2006 or newer model with flexible stalks, this may not apply to you.)
-* Brake lights in pods and/or extra brake lights
+* [[Lights & Bulbs|Brake lights]] in pods and/or extra brake lights
-* Seat - Spencer or DIY mods make distance riding way more comfortable and are pretty inexpensive.
+* [[Bodywork & Frame|Seat]] - Spencer or DIY mods make distance riding way more comfortable and are pretty inexpensive.
-* Horn - Because the stock one sucks.
+* [[I want a louder horn|Horn]] - Because the stock one sucks.
-* Taller windscreen - Considered by many to be a must for extended high-speed riding.
+* [[I want a new windscreen|Taller windscreen]] - Considered by many to be a must for extended high-speed riding.
-* Gel grips - Reduce vibration from the bars; notice that doesn't say 'eliminate'.
+* [[I want to get some new grips|Gel grips]] - Reduce vibration from the bars; notice that doesn't say 'eliminate'.
-* 15 Tooth front sprocket - Reduces cruising rpm and makes the bike more useful overall.
+* [[I want to change my gearing|15 tooth front sprocket]] - Reduces cruising rpm and makes the bike more useful overall.
 ==Mods you should avoid until you know what you're doing==
@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 * [[Suspension]] - This is the performance mod that will provide the most benefit. Start with Sonic springs in the right rate for you, along with new fork oil. For the rear, check the reviews of various shocks that people have used on the 250. If you have the funds, an aftermarket shock such as Works Performance or Hagon (bolt-on) or Fox (modification sometimes required) will be a big improvement.
-* [[Brakes]] - if your bike is over four years old, it's time for new brake lines, anyway. You might as well make them stainless steel. They give better feel and performance for the same amount of money. There's nothing terribly wrong with the stock pads, but upgrading to an aftermarket set of HH pads will give you better stopping power. Be advised that putting on new pads and stainless lines necessitates practicing quick stops, otherwise you WILL lock up the front in an emergency. Practice, practice, practice.
+* [[Brakes]] - If your bike is over four years old, it's time for new brake lines, anyway. You might as well make them stainless steel. They give better feel and performance for the same amount of money. There's nothing terribly wrong with the stock pads, but upgrading to an aftermarket set of HH pads will give you better stopping power. Be advised that putting on new pads and stainless lines necessitates practicing quick stops, otherwise you WILL lock up the front in an emergency. Practice, practice, practice.
 It's really hard to tell if what you did is ''better'' when you don't have a baseline for comparison. For instance, there is a tendency for new riders to make their suspension too stiff. It might be all right for that Saturday morning jaunt through the woods, but if you take off for Peoria one day, you may find that your body hurts more than what you'd like it to.
 This is why it's important to first ride for a while and get a feel for what the bike (and you) can do. Figure out what works well, what feels a little off, and where it's not performing well. Then you can reasonably address the issues.