Hauling on a trailer: Difference between revisions

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A note on '''[http://www.canyondancer.com/ Canyon Dancers]''' ties from [http://www.ninja250.org/Craig Craig]: I do tech at track days, and there are always several bikes that come through with messed up sticking throttles. Yup, they all used a Canyon Dancer.

====Loading the bike onto the trailer====

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:3) Around the top triple/fork and down through the plastics (will be a very narrow tie and provide less stability)

Option 2 usually ends up working well. It compromises some width on the trailer tie down point, but it does provide the best stability you can get with a narrow tie down space. Option 1 can give more stability, but requires a wide trailer and doesn't always work when you have a group of bikes to be tied.

Option 2 usually ends up working well. It compromises some width on the trailer tie down point, but it does provide the best stability you can get with a narrow tie down space. Option 1 can give more stability, but requires a wide trailer and doesn't always work when you have a group of bikes to be tied. As two is a lower tie point, you can also use narrower trailer tie points, as the effective angle is still quite great.

[[image:1024d.jpg|150px]]

~~As two is a lower tie point, you can also use narrower trailer tie points, as the effective angle is still quite great.~~

Now, your helper has been sitting patiently on the bike this whole time, so it's time to get on with it.

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On the brake side, repeat the process until the helper feels the bike move the other way.

On some trailers (rentals especially) the front tie down points may simply be a rail. If this is the case, you will need to brace the tie so that it can not slide down along the rail. Tie a bowline around the line as it feeds over the rail. Run the tail of the bowline to the wall of the trailer or some other tie point that can be used as an anchor. At this point, tie a [http://~~www~~.~~animatedknots~~.~~com~~/~~truckers~~/~~index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg~~ trucker's hitch] and tension the bowline. This means that as you tighten the ratchet strap it can not slide down the rail, as the rope is securing it.

On some trailers (rentals especially) the front tie down points may simply be a rail. If this is the case, you will need to brace the tie so that it can not slide down along the rail. Tie a bowline around the line as it feeds over the rail. Run the tail of the bowline to the wall of the trailer or some other tie point that can be used as an anchor. At this point, tie a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trucker%27s_hitch trucker's hitch] and tension the bowline. This means that as you tighten the ratchet strap it can not slide down the rail, as the rope is securing it.

Ensure that the front wheel is straight and the bike is centered and straight. Alternating from side to side, add tension to the ratchets so that the suspension is getting compressed. As you are doing this, make sure that the ratchet straps are not interfering with the plastics. If they are, you have two options: remove the plastics or narrow the tie points.

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====Alternate front tie points====

[[image:IMG_2295.JPG|90px]]

[[image:IMG_2296-2.JPG|150px]]

In some situations, crossing the straps could work better, such as where the tie-down points are too wide or too high and pull significantly on the fairings. For example: If you need to use the normal tie-downs in a truck, halfway up the bed and in the far corners. Crossing the straps there may actually be the best solution.

Loop the straps (via soft-ties) around the forks, just above the lower triple:

[[Image:Hauling a bike 2.jpg|100px]]

Using soft ties, put the plastic hooks right on the fender. This shouldn't create a lot of pressure, but there could be enough that over time it would wear through the paint. Wrap the hooks in shop rags or towels. This shouldn't cause any problems for short trips, but if you're going a long way, put a couple layers of adhesive shelf liner on the fender so the hooks wear on that, instead of the paint.

====Tying the back end====

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Foot pegs can suffer the same problems as the handle bar risers - some are cast and snap under load. You can use them - just remember to NOT tighten them as much as you would the front. You only need to keep the bike straight now; a few pounds will do.

Again: find a tie point on the trailer rearward of the bike. You won't have to worry about plastics this time (generally). Once again, if you are tying on a rail you must secure the strap so it can't walk down the rail and slacken. And again, pick the lowest tie point you can. A few clicks on each ratchet strap and the rear of the bike is secure. ~~And these~~ are nylon ropes, not bungee cords.

Again: find a tie point on the trailer rearward of the bike. You won't have to worry about plastics this time (generally). Once again, if you are tying on a rail you must secure the strap so it can't walk down the rail and slacken. And again, pick the lowest tie point you can. A few clicks on each ratchet strap and the rear of the bike is secure.

These are tied nylon ropes, not ratchet straps (and definitely not bungee cords) but the principle is the same.

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+A note on '''[http://www.canyondancer.com/ Canyon Dancers]''' ties from [http://www.ninja250.org/Craig Craig]: I do tech at track days, and there are always several bikes that come through with messed up sticking throttles. Yup, they all used a Canyon Dancer.
 ====Loading the bike onto the trailer====
@@ Line 66: / Line 68: @@
 :3) Around the top triple/fork and down through the plastics (will be a very narrow tie and provide less stability)
-Option 2 usually ends up working well. It compromises some width on the trailer tie down point, but it does provide the best stability you can get with a narrow tie down space. Option 1 can give more stability, but requires a wide trailer and doesn't always work when you have a group of bikes to be tied.
+Option 2 usually ends up working well. It compromises some width on the trailer tie down point, but it does provide the best stability you can get with a narrow tie down space. Option 1 can give more stability, but requires a wide trailer and doesn't always work when you have a group of bikes to be tied. As two is a lower tie point, you can also use narrower trailer tie points, as the effective angle is still quite great.
+[[image:1024d.jpg|150px]]
-As two is a lower tie point, you can also use narrower trailer tie points, as the effective angle is still quite great.
 Now, your helper has been sitting patiently on the bike this whole time, so it's time to get on with it.
@@ Line 77: / Line 80: @@
 On the brake side, repeat the process until the helper feels the bike move the other way.
-On some trailers (rentals especially) the front tie down points may simply be a rail. If this is the case, you will need to brace the tie so that it can not slide down along the rail. Tie a bowline around the line as it feeds over the rail. Run the tail of the bowline to the wall of the trailer or some other tie point that can be used as an anchor. At this point, tie a [http://www.animatedknots.com/truckers/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg trucker's hitch] and tension the bowline. This means that as you tighten the ratchet strap it can not slide down the rail, as the rope is securing it.
+On some trailers (rentals especially) the front tie down points may simply be a rail. If this is the case, you will need to brace the tie so that it can not slide down along the rail. Tie a bowline around the line as it feeds over the rail. Run the tail of the bowline to the wall of the trailer or some other tie point that can be used as an anchor. At this point, tie a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trucker%27s_hitch trucker's hitch] and tension the bowline. This means that as you tighten the ratchet strap it can not slide down the rail, as the rope is securing it.
 Ensure that the front wheel is straight and the bike is centered and straight. Alternating from side to side, add tension to the ratchets so that the suspension is getting compressed. As you are doing this, make sure that the ratchet straps are not interfering with the plastics. If they are, you have two options: remove the plastics or narrow the tie points.
@@ Line 91: / Line 94: @@
 [[image:craigtrailer1.jpg|150px]]
 [[image:craigtrailer2.jpg|150px]]
+====Alternate front tie points====
+[[image:IMG_2295.JPG|90px]]
+[[image:IMG_2296-2.JPG|150px]]
+In some situations, crossing the straps could work better, such as where the tie-down points are too wide or too high and pull significantly on the fairings. For example: If you need to use the normal tie-downs in a truck, halfway up the bed and in the far corners. Crossing the straps there may actually be the best solution.
+Loop the straps (via soft-ties) around the forks, just above the lower triple:
+[[Image:Hauling a bike 2.jpg|100px]]
+Using soft ties, put the plastic hooks right on the fender. This shouldn't create a lot of pressure, but there could be enough that over time it would wear through the paint. Wrap the hooks in shop rags or towels. This shouldn't cause any problems for short trips, but if you're going a long way, put a couple layers of adhesive shelf liner on the fender so the hooks wear on that, instead of the paint.
 ====Tying the back end====
@@ Line 100: / Line 116: @@
 Foot pegs can suffer the same problems as the handle bar risers - some are cast and snap under load. You can use them - just remember to NOT tighten them as much as you would the front. You only need to keep the bike straight now; a few pounds will do.
-Again: find a tie point on the trailer rearward of the bike. You won't have to worry about plastics this time (generally). Once again, if you are tying on a rail you must secure the strap so it can't walk down the rail and slacken. And again, pick the lowest tie point you can. A few clicks on each ratchet strap and the rear of the bike is secure. And these are nylon ropes, not bungee cords.
+Again: find a tie point on the trailer rearward of the bike. You won't have to worry about plastics this time (generally). Once again, if you are tying on a rail you must secure the strap so it can't walk down the rail and slacken. And again, pick the lowest tie point you can. A few clicks on each ratchet strap and the rear of the bike is secure.
+These are tied nylon ropes, not ratchet straps (and definitely not bungee cords) but the principle is the same.
 [[image:1024.jpg|120px]]