Installing AsianCycle flush-mounts: Difference between revisions

(12 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)

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[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]

~~===Introduction===~~

__TOC__

Flushmount turn signals are a relatively simple addition to your EX250. This installation guide will help answer any questions you may still have once you open the package. Please read the [[I want to put flush-mount flashers on the front.|~~main~~ flushmounts article]] for more information on this modification.

Flushmount turn signals are a relatively simple addition to your EX250. This installation guide will help answer any questions you may still have once you open the package. Please read the main [[I want to put flush-mount flashers on the front|flushmounts article]] for more information on this modification.

===Tools===

==Tools==

*Wire Strippers/Cutter

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*Pen/marker (optional)

*Soldering Iron

*Knife/scissors: to cut shrink wrap tubing (optional)

*Knife/scissors to cut shrink wrap tubing (optional)

*Heat Gun/Lighter/Heat Source: to shrink the shrink wrap tubing (optional)

*Heat Gun/Lighter/Heat Source to shrink the shrink wrap tubing (optional)

*Scribe/marker: to mark the section of the fairing to be removed

*Scribe/marker to mark the section of the fairing to be removed

*Dremel or other moto-tool with cut-off wheel and sanding drum, OR anything you are comfortable cutting your fairings with. Hacksaw blades with duct tape handles have been noted as working well for many people. Others just drill multiple holes along the cut line using an electric drill.

*File/sandpaper: to smooth the cut on the fairing (optional)

*File/sandpaper to smooth the cut on the fairing (optional)

*A #2 Phillips screwdriver: to fasten the flushmounts onto the fairing

*A #2 Phillips screwdriver to fasten the flushmounts onto the fairing

===Supplies===

==Supplies==

*Solder

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*Electrical tape

==~~=Part 1:~~ Preparation of flushmount signals===

==Preparation of flushmount signals==

~~Many people probably won't take as much time, or be quite as concerned with details, as this guide is. If you find something that you think is overkill, then by all means cut a few corners.~~

Here is the object of this exercise: flushmount front turn signals from [http://asiancycle.com/ AsianCycle]. Note the total lack of any connectors on the leads, which is just as well, since there is practically no way to match the stock Kawasaki connectors.

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[[Image:IMG_0676.jpg|170px]]

Here are bullet connectors that are still on some donor signals. A ~~LOT~~ of people bust up regular signals and just toss them, but why not recycle/reuse? These came with a parts bike. There's a good chance that you could post that you're looking for busted ones and get them ~~for the cost of shipping~~ from ~~many of the folks~~ here. ~~You won't get any more stock than those!~~ You can also purchase many varieties of connectors from your local auto store.

Here are bullet connectors that are still on some donor signals. A lot of people bust up regular signals and just toss them, but why not recycle/reuse? These came with a parts bike. There's a good chance that you could post that you're looking for busted ones and get them cheap from someone here. You can also purchase many varieties of connectors from your local auto store and use new connectors on both ends. Just remember that you need to be able to disconnect the connectors to remove the fairing.

[[Image:IMG_0674.jpg|170px]]

Cut the leads near the sockets. Note the sheathing tubes; save those and reuse them as well. (Don't bother trying to detach the actual bullet mount from a lead; the crimp tabs will just break off.)

Cut the leads near the sockets. Note the sheathing tubes; save those and reuse them as well. Don't bother trying to detach the actual bullet mount from a lead; the crimp tabs will just break off.

[[Image:IMG_0678.jpg|170px]]

Make the new leads approximately the same length as the originals. Leave the new flushmount leads alone, save for stripping about 3/4 ~~of an inch~~ of insulation off of their ends. The leads from the OEM signals, (below the ruler) have been cut and the insulation stripped so that when the wires are spliced, they will be close to the original length of the OEM leads.

Make the new leads approximately the same length as the originals. Leave the new flushmount leads alone, save for stripping about 3/4" of insulation off their ends. The leads from the OEM signals (below the ruler) have been cut and the insulation stripped so that when the wires are spliced, they will be close to the original length of the OEM leads.

[[Image:IMG_0680.jpg|170px]]

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[[Image:IMG_0683.jpg|170px]]

Follow that by soldering the splice.

Follow that by soldering the splice. You can also use [[Emergency Flashers 1|crimp connectors]].

[[Image:IMG_0684.jpg|170px]]

At this time, cut sections of shrink wrap tubing~~. Cut the sections~~ about 1/2" longer than the splice sections.

At this time, cut sections of shrink wrap tubing about 1/2" longer than the splice sections.

[[Image:IMG_0688.jpg|170px]]

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Line 57:

[[Image:IMG_0690.jpg|170px]]

Slip the OEM sheathing tubes over the new leads. Sealing the ends of the sheathing tube with some electrical tape should protect the leads from possible ~~chaffing~~, as well as provide more corrosion resistance.

Slip the OEM sheathing tubes over the new leads. Sealing the ends of the sheathing tube with some electrical tape should protect the leads from possible chafing, as well as provide more corrosion resistance.

[[Image:IMG_0691.jpg|170px]]

[[image:100_0956Lightprep-ed.jpg|170px]]

Wiring: The black wire gets connected to the yellow/black wire (ground), and the red wire gets connected to the green wire (hot). Yellow and black wire is ground throughout the bike.

==~~=Part 2:~~ Preparation of the fairing===

==Preparation of the fairing==

~~If you are familiar with~~ these flushmounts, ~~you already know that~~ the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.

With these flushmounts, the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.

[[Image:baseplate.jpeg|170px]]

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Line 79:

[[Image:IMG_0698.jpg|170px]]

[[image:100_0953Before.jpg|170px]]

Here ~~is an~~ external ~~picture~~ of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger, until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used ~~here~~ to make the cutout area more visible.

Here are external pictures of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used on the left to make the cutout area more visible.

[[Image:IMG_0701.jpg|170px]]

[[image:100_0954HoleDrilled.jpg|170px]]

Internal picture of the same. Notice that a small part of the inside of the circular section was taken out to allow for a proper fit. The flushmounts can be installed and removed without feeling that you're putting a strain on anything, but the fit is still nice and snug.

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[[Image:flushmount.jpg|170px]]

[[image:100_0957After.jpg|170px]]

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]
-===Introduction===
+__TOC__
-Flushmount turn signals are a relatively simple addition to your EX250. This installation guide will help answer any questions you may still have once you open the package. Please read the [[I want to put flush-mount flashers on the front.|main flushmounts article]] for more information on this modification.
+Flushmount turn signals are a relatively simple addition to your EX250. This installation guide will help answer any questions you may still have once you open the package. Please read the main [[I want to put flush-mount flashers on the front|flushmounts article]] for more information on this modification.
-===Tools===
+==Tools==
 *Wire Strippers/Cutter
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 *Pen/marker (optional)
 *Soldering Iron
-*Knife/scissors: to cut shrink wrap tubing (optional)
+*Knife/scissors to cut shrink wrap tubing (optional)
-*Heat Gun/Lighter/Heat Source: to shrink the shrink wrap tubing (optional)
+*Heat Gun/Lighter/Heat Source to shrink the shrink wrap tubing (optional)
-*Scribe/marker: to mark the section of the fairing to be removed
+*Scribe/marker to mark the section of the fairing to be removed
 *Dremel or other moto-tool with cut-off wheel and sanding drum, OR anything you are comfortable cutting your fairings with. Hacksaw blades with duct tape handles have been noted as working well for many people. Others just drill multiple holes along the cut line using an electric drill.
-*File/sandpaper: to smooth the cut on the fairing (optional)
+*File/sandpaper to smooth the cut on the fairing (optional)
-*A #2 Phillips screwdriver: to fasten the flushmounts onto the fairing
+*A #2 Phillips screwdriver to fasten the flushmounts onto the fairing
-===Supplies===
+==Supplies==
 *Solder
@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
 *Electrical tape
-===Part 1: Preparation of flushmount signals===
+==Preparation of flushmount signals==
-Many people probably won't take as much time, or be quite as concerned with details, as this guide is. If you find something that you think is overkill, then by all means cut a few corners.
 Here is the object of this exercise: flushmount front turn signals from [http://asiancycle.com/ AsianCycle]. Note the total lack of any connectors on the leads, which is just as well, since there is practically no way to match the stock Kawasaki connectors.
@@ Line 31: / Line 29: @@
 [[Image:IMG_0676.jpg|170px]]
-Here are bullet connectors that are still on some donor signals. A LOT of people bust up regular signals and just toss them, but why not recycle/reuse? These came with a parts bike. There's a good chance that you could post that you're looking for busted ones and get them for the cost of shipping from many of the folks here. You won't get any more stock than those! You can also purchase many varieties of connectors from your local auto store.
+Here are bullet connectors that are still on some donor signals. A lot of people bust up regular signals and just toss them, but why not recycle/reuse? These came with a parts bike. There's a good chance that you could post that you're looking for busted ones and get them cheap from someone here. You can also purchase many varieties of connectors from your local auto store and use new connectors on both ends. Just remember that you need to be able to disconnect the connectors to remove the fairing.
 [[Image:IMG_0674.jpg|170px]]
-Cut the leads near the sockets. Note the sheathing tubes; save those and reuse them as well. (Don't bother trying to detach the actual bullet mount from a lead; the crimp tabs will just break off.)
+Cut the leads near the sockets. Note the sheathing tubes; save those and reuse them as well. Don't bother trying to detach the actual bullet mount from a lead; the crimp tabs will just break off.
 [[Image:IMG_0678.jpg|170px]]
-Make the new leads approximately the same length as the originals. Leave the new flushmount leads alone, save for stripping about 3/4 of an inch of insulation off of their ends. The leads from the OEM signals, (below the ruler) have been cut and the insulation stripped so that when the wires are spliced, they will be close to the original length of the OEM leads.
+Make the new leads approximately the same length as the originals. Leave the new flushmount leads alone, save for stripping about 3/4" of insulation off their ends. The leads from the OEM signals (below the ruler) have been cut and the insulation stripped so that when the wires are spliced, they will be close to the original length of the OEM leads.
 [[Image:IMG_0680.jpg|170px]]
@@ Line 47: / Line 45: @@
 [[Image:IMG_0683.jpg|170px]]
-Follow that by soldering the splice.
+Follow that by soldering the splice. You can also use [[Emergency Flashers 1|crimp connectors]].
 [[Image:IMG_0684.jpg|170px]]
-At this time, cut sections of shrink wrap tubing. Cut the sections about 1/2" longer than the splice sections.
+At this time, cut sections of shrink wrap tubing about 1/2" longer than the splice sections.
 [[Image:IMG_0688.jpg|170px]]
@@ Line 59: / Line 57: @@
 [[Image:IMG_0690.jpg|170px]]
-Slip the OEM sheathing tubes over the new leads. Sealing the ends of the sheathing tube with some electrical tape should protect the leads from possible chaffing, as well as provide more corrosion resistance.
+Slip the OEM sheathing tubes over the new leads. Sealing the ends of the sheathing tube with some electrical tape should protect the leads from possible chafing, as well as provide more corrosion resistance.
 [[Image:IMG_0691.jpg|170px]]
+[[image:100_0956Lightprep-ed.jpg|170px]]
 Wiring: The black wire gets connected to the yellow/black wire (ground), and the red wire gets connected to the green wire (hot). Yellow and black wire is ground throughout the bike.
-===Part 2: Preparation of the fairing===
+==Preparation of the fairing==
-If you are familiar with these flushmounts, you already know that the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.
+With these flushmounts, the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.
 [[Image:baseplate.jpeg|170px]]
@@ Line 80: / Line 79: @@
 [[Image:IMG_0698.jpg|170px]]
+[[image:100_0953Before.jpg|170px]]
-Here is an external picture of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger, until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used here to make the cutout area more visible.
+Here are external pictures of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used on the left to make the cutout area more visible.
 [[Image:IMG_0701.jpg|170px]]
+[[image:100_0954HoleDrilled.jpg|170px]]
 Internal picture of the same. Notice that a small part of the inside of the circular section was taken out to allow for a proper fit. The flushmounts can be installed and removed without feeling that you're putting a strain on anything, but the fit is still nice and snug.
@@ Line 92: / Line 93: @@
 [[Image:flushmount.jpg|170px]]
+[[image:100_0957After.jpg|170px]]