Lubing the cables: Difference between revisions
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[[Category: Controls & Cables]] | [[Category: Controls & Cables]] | ||
==How to lube the clutch cable== | |||
This is a fairly easy task that should be done at least once a year, more often if the bike is parked outside or exposed to salt air. | |||
Here's the genuine Kawasaki cable lubrication tool: | Here's the genuine Kawasaki cable lubrication tool: | ||
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[[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_1.jpg|150px]] | [[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_1.jpg|150px]] | ||
Disconnect the clutch cable from the lever (loosening it at the [[Adjusting the clutch cable|clutch cover]] first makes this task easier): | |||
[[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_2.jpg|150px]] | |||
At this point, do yourself a favor and depress the clutch switch (a small, 1/8" diameter, 1/4" long spring-loaded piece of plastic that is activated by squeezing/releasing the clutch lever) and use a piece of tape to keep it depressed while you are working, as it is very easily broken off. It can be difficult to do this before starting, so wait until after removing the cable. The switch is most prone to breaking while reconnecting the cable. Don't forget to remove the tape when you are done. | |||
Clamp the tool to the cable. The thin part of the tool goes on the cable and the wider part attaches to the sheath. This lets the lube run down the cable, inside the sheath, without making too much of a mess. | [[image:clutch switch.jpg|150px]] | ||
Clamp the tool to the cable. The thin part of the tool goes on the cable and the wider part attaches to the sheath. This lets the lube run down the cable, inside the sheath, without making ''too much'' of a mess. | |||
[[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_3.jpg|150px]] | [[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_3.jpg|150px]] | ||
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[[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_4.jpg|150px]] | [[Image:Clutch_cable_lube_4.jpg|150px]] | ||
Hook the cable back up, [[Adjusting the clutch cable|adjust the slack]], and enjoy silky smooth clutch action | Hook the cable back up, [[Adjusting the clutch cable|adjust the slack]], and enjoy silky smooth clutch action. | ||
====Other available tools | ====Other available tools==== | ||
[http://www.protectall.com/cable_life.htm Protect All Cable Luber] | [http://www.protectall.com/cable_life.htm Protect All Cable Luber] | ||
:*Good how-to from [http://www.protectall.com/ | :*Good how-to from [http://www.protectall.com/cablehowto.aspx Protect All] | ||
[http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/cable_luber/ Motion Pro Cable Luber] | [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/cable_luber/ Motion Pro Cable Luber] | ||
====What should I use for lubricant? | ====Cable breakage==== | ||
The clutch cable tends to break more often than many people think it should, usually right here: | |||
[[image:Fray2w.jpg|150px]] | |||
Since dealers quite often don't have these in stock, you might want to get a spare cable and zip-tie it to the current one. Should your cable break, it is just a matter of hooking up both ends and you are on your way home. That or [[Can I ride my bike home if the clutch cable breaks?|shifting clutchless]] for the rest of your ride. | |||
==What should I use for lubricant?== | |||
Pretty much anything that won't gum up your cables will work. There are a couple things you shouldn't use, though. WD-40 is not a lubricant. Also stay away from chain wax. You don't want something waxy building up. It doesn't cost much to get the right stuff. Your motorcycle shop should have something similar to the Protect All [http://www.protectall.com/cable_life.htm Cable Life Kit]. You can also find multi-purpose lubes such as those made by [http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/all_purpose_silicone_lube Krylon] or [http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/dryfilm.html Dupont] in many hardware stores and big boxes. If you have a good [http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/teflon-plus-lube.htm bicycle lube] that will work fine as well. | Pretty much anything that won't gum up your cables will work. There are a couple things you shouldn't use, though. WD-40 is not a lubricant. Also stay away from chain wax. You don't want something waxy building up. It doesn't cost much to get the right stuff. Your motorcycle shop should have something similar to the Protect All [http://www.protectall.com/cable_life.htm Cable Life Kit]. You can also find multi-purpose lubes such as those made by [http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/all_purpose_silicone_lube Krylon] or [http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/products/dryfilm.html Dupont] in many hardware stores and big boxes. If you have a good [http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/teflon-plus-lube.htm bicycle lube] that will work fine as well. | ||
==Lubing the throttle cables== | |||
Lubing a throttle cable is done in the exact same fashion as lubing a clutch cable. Use the same cable lubing device. Work the cable back and forth a few times throughout the process. There is one difference, though. The throttle cables are '''a bear''' to get off and [[Throttle cable dis/re-assembly|then back on]] correctly, much more so than the clutch. Putting all the throttle components back in the correct place can be an exercise in frustration. Also, there are two throttle cables: one to open the throttle and one to pull it back closed. It is very difficult to get a cable luber on the opener cable. It has this weird, J-shaped guide on it that can't be removed, and if you pull the cable far enough to get that out of the way, there's a big plastic thing on the end of the sheath that won't budge, or fit in the cable luber. What to do? | Lubing a throttle cable is done in the exact same fashion as lubing a clutch cable. Use the same cable lubing device. Work the cable back and forth a few times throughout the process. There is one difference, though. The throttle cables are '''a bear''' to get off and [[Throttle cable dis/re-assembly|then back on]] correctly, much more so than the clutch. Putting all the throttle components back in the correct place can be an exercise in frustration. Also, there are two throttle cables: one to open the throttle and one to pull it back closed. It is very difficult to get a cable luber on the opener cable. It has this weird, J-shaped guide on it that can't be removed, and if you pull the cable far enough to get that out of the way, there's a big plastic thing on the end of the sheath that won't budge, or fit in the cable luber. What to do? | ||
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This same method can be used for the clutch cable, if you like. | This same method can be used for the clutch cable, if you like. | ||
==How to lube the speedometer cable== | |||
Speedo cables will sooner or later dry up their original lubrication, and you will see the needle start to jump on the dial. It wants lubrication. If ignored, it will get worse and break. The cable is a tiny, long, coiled spring with square ends formed on it for a drive. You can lube the cable by disconnecting the knurled knob on the speedo gearbox on the front axle with your fingers. No need to disturb the upper end fitting at the speedo. | Speedo cables will sooner or later dry up their original lubrication, and you will see the needle start to jump on the dial. It wants lubrication. If ignored, it will get worse and break. The cable is a tiny, long, coiled spring with square ends formed on it for a drive. You can lube the cable by disconnecting the knurled knob on the speedo gearbox on the front axle with your fingers. No need to disturb the upper end fitting at the speedo. | ||