Removing J bike carbs: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:EX250J Info]]

Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My ~~'08~~ is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].

Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My 2008 is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].

Start by [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|removing the fairings]]. Then, once the fairings are out of the way, you get to see all the different things that are still in your way to get at the carbs. There's a lot. Expect ''at least'' an hour and a half to get them out.

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Make sure both [[How do I adjust the floats?|float heights]] are set to 17mm. Mixture screws on this bike were set to 1.5 to 2 turns out for the left cylinder and 2.5 to 3 turns out for the right from the factory. [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|Set them both]] to 2.5 turns.

Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off) and ~~set~~ the petcock to prime. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.

Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off). When re-assembling, do the airbox side first, and have the battery tray out and the airbox unbolted from the frame. Two bolts, one lower left front, one upper right rear, 4mm hex heads. The airbox can move about 3/4".

Set the petcock to prime for the first start. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.

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 [[Category:EX250J Info]]
-Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My '08 is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].
+Motorcycles, and Kawasakis in general, and EX250s specifically, are known for not always having all their carb settings in perfect order right out of the box. Here's how to take care of [[My 2008 is a cold-blooded ogre|that problem]].
 Start by [[Removing 250J tank & bodywork|removing the fairings]]. Then, once the fairings are out of the way, you get to see all the different things that are still in your way to get at the carbs. There's a lot. Expect ''at least'' an hour and a half to get them out.
@@ Line 34: / Line 34: @@
 Make sure both [[How do I adjust the floats?|float heights]] are set to 17mm. Mixture screws on this bike were set to 1.5 to 2 turns out for the left cylinder and 2.5 to 3 turns out for the right from the factory. [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|Set them both]] to 2.5 turns.
-Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off) and set the petcock to prime. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.
+Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off). When re-assembling, do the airbox side first, and have the battery tray out and the airbox unbolted from the frame. Two bolts, one lower left front, one upper right rear, 4mm hex heads. The airbox can move about 3/4".
+Set the petcock to prime for the first start. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future.