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Mounting & balancing tires yourself: Difference between revisions

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[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg|120px]]
[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg|120px]]


If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92961 Harbor Freight] or [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004055/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004055/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker JC Whitney]. Whitney also has a [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker less expensive model].
If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight]. It stores somewhat compact and works many times better than a c-clamp. [http://www.jcwhitney.com/tire-bead-breaker/p2004021.jcwx?filterid=j1# JC Whitney] has one that appears to be the same.  


[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg|150px]]
[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg|150px]]
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Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and the screw-together metal stems can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. It's best to just change the valve stem every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.
Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and the screw-together metal stems can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. It's best to just change the valve stem every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.


At this point, check the static balance of just the rim (without the tire on it), as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. You can do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times; the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.
==Sidewall information==


[[Image:mount balance 12.JPG|150px]] 
It's important to note that tires are directional, due to how they're constructed. The arrow is plainly shown on the side of the tire, like this (to the left):  


Make note, or mark on the inside of the wheel, where the heavy spot is located. As you can see above, the valve stem is off to the right, and very much ''not'' the heavy spot.  
[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG|150px]] 


It's important to note that tires are directional, due to how they're constructed. The arrow is plainly shown on the side of the tire, like this (to the left):
Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250).


[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG|150px]] 
==Finding the wheel's heavy point==


Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!). You should also look for a round dot, about the size of a dime, on the tire. This is an indicator of the lightest spot on the tire from the manufacturer, though not all brands have this (this Avon didn't). You'll want to line this up with the heaviest spot on the rim that you noted earlier.
Before you put the tire on the rim, you need to find the wheel's heavy point. You only need to do this once for the lifetime of each wheel. Go to [[How can I balance the tires by myself?]] and do that part now. It will also tell you how to use the factory's paint mark to find the correct point to mount the tire on the wheel.  


==Mounting the new tire==
==Mounting the new tire==
Make sure you have read the balancing article and put the "light point" mark on the tire at the heavy point of the wheel.


When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as was needed here:  
When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as was needed here:  
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Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube (see [[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips|Hints & Tips]]) on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.  
Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube (see [[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips|Hints & Tips]]) on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.  


There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works. Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim, work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.
Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim and the first bead in the low center part of the rim. Work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.


[[Image:p8181947.jpg|150px]]
[[Image:p8181947.jpg|150px]]


With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations) do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite) the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.   
With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations) do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.   


Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem, and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. If you have trouble, just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV
Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem, and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. If you have trouble, just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV
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If you have a problem seating the bead, wet your hand with plain old water or tire lube and rub it (just a bit, you don't need to soak it) around the area not seating, and it should pop right out.
If you have a problem seating the bead, wet your hand with plain old water or tire lube and rub it (just a bit, you don't need to soak it) around the area not seating, and it should pop right out.


One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual.
One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way ''around'' (not across) the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual.  
 
You'll then want to look for an even ring on the tire all the way around the rim (there are usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.  


Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. Go a little over what you normally run until you get it back on the bike. It's always easier to let some out than to add some back.
A variation of this is the rope-and-a-stick trick, shown below. Basically, you make a tourniquet around the circumference of the tire to try and encourage the sidewalls to splay before adding air.  


==Balancing==
[[image:rope-and-stick.jpg|110px]]


And it's time for a final static balance, the same way as before:
Once the bead seems to be seated, look for an even ring on the tire all the way around the rim. There are usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple. There should be an even distance between the ring and the rim all the way around. If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.


[[Image:mount balance 15.JPG|150px]] 
Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up.


You'll most likely need some weight to balance everything up. There are 2 main kinds of weights: clamp on and stick on:
==Balancing==
 
[[Image:mount balance 16.JPG|150px]] 
 
Stick-ons are cheap, easy to come by, and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. Tape them on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking, scotch, whatever tape) and check again before affixing for good.


Static balancing is good enough for professional roadracers, so it's certainly good enough for the average street rider. If you feel better having your wheels dynamically balanced by a machine, you can take it in to a shop and pay for that peace of mind.  The primary advantage of the balancing machines seems to be that they're faster -- static balancing can take a while (5-20 minutes per tire) to do correctly.
Balancing the wheels is an important part of mounting your tires and should not be neglected. It's so important, we've made a separate article for it. Follow this link and balance your tires now:


[[Image:mount balance 17.JPG|150px]]
[[How can I balance the tires by myself?]]
 
And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.


==Reattaching the wheel==
==Reattaching the wheel==


Now [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|reinstall the wheel]] (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:
After you've balanced the wheel, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.
 
Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.


If you get it back on and it doesn't seem quite right, check that your spacers are all in order. Should look like this:
Reinstall the wheel:  


[[image:DSC00424.jpg|150px]]
*[[Reinstalling the front wheel|Front wheel]]
*[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|Rear wheel]]


If you have trouble with the wheel not spinning after the front is back on, check that the speedometer drive is [[Reinstalling the front wheel|installed correctly]].
Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything.


==Links==
==Links==
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