Riding in the rain: Difference between revisions

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Many riders don't ride when it's raining, and that's all right. But just because the road is wet doesn't mean you have to stay home, or take the dreaded car to work. This piece will show some of the key tools that will allow you to survive when the weather isn't perfect.

Learning to ride in the rain is just like learning to ride. It just takes a little time to get accustomed to it. A lot of the traction 'lost' in the rain is actually psychological. Commuters (who get stuck in the rain regularly) are usually quite comfortable in the ~~rain~~.

Learning to ride in the rain is just like learning to ride. It just takes a little time to get accustomed to it. A lot of the traction 'lost' in the rain is actually psychological. Commuters (who get stuck in the rain regularly) are usually quite comfortable in the wet.

Things to definitely watch out for:

*Greatly increased stopping distance ~~(do not want to risk a lockup, obviously)~~

*Greatly increased stopping distance

*Road oils rising to surface (when rain first starts)

*Road oils rising to surface when rain first starts

*Manhole covers, painted lines, steel grates and railroad tracks

*Puddles in the slow lanes (near the gutters)

*Reduced visibility (for you ''and'' other vehicles)

*Reduced visibility (~~watch out~~ for ~~the cages~~)

*Hypothermia (cold weather and/or long trips)

*~~Replace tires~~ in ~~a timely manner~~ (~~should be done regardless of rain~~).

*Puddles: in the slow lanes (near the gutters) and elsewhere (can hide potholes)

~~Pick a rainy Saturday and go to an empty parking lot. Practice turning, leaning, and (very) slow (rear wheel) skids.~~

Other stuff:

See these articles for helmet-related rain tips:

*Replace your tires in a timely manner (rain or no rain)

*Get some [[Rain gear]]

*See these articles for helmet-related rain tips:

:[[Helmet Hints & Tips]]

:[[Defogging the visor]]

Pick a rainy Saturday and go to an empty parking lot. Practice turning, leaning, and (very) slow (rear wheel) skids.

==Bike control inputs==

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Avoid a “death grip” on the bars, keeping your hands consciously loose and relaxed at all times. Think of your grips as if you’re holding a marshmallow.

~~====~~While Cornering~~====~~

While Cornering:

* Support 90% of your weight with your legs (your butt should be just skimming the seat) via your feet on the footpegs. Done properly, a day of riding hard in the rain will leave your thigh muscles aching the next day.

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Keep the bike as vertical as possible while cornering. Use less bike lean angle by getting your body position shifted an exaggerated amount off the inside for turns. Only do this if you already know how in the dry. [[Shifting body weight for a turn|Practice]]. Despite some body shifting off the bike, keep your shoulders square with the handlebars while making steering inputs.

Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high (~~i.e.~~ [http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style]"), for better steering control during cornering.

Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high ([http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style"]) for better steering control during cornering.

[[image: Ben_Spies_Sears_Point_2005.jpg|150px]]

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==Bike operation==

Have the bike in a lower gear for corners (but don’t bog the engine). This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control. The key is to have the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that ~~allows for~~ the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel.

Keep the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that provides the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel. No bogging the engine, no quick revving. This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control.

Minimize shifting while riding contiguous corners. Use smooth roll up and roll down, keeping the engine in its sweet spot and minimizing instantaneous tire loading.

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==Braking==

Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking).

Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking]]).

Be 100% off the front brake before turning into corners.

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Regularly scan well ahead to identify road obstacles (such as rocks, branches, or wet leaves) early enough to have time to adjust accordingly. Also scan road surfaces just ahead of you for previously undetected “gotchas”.

Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains ~~1-to-1~~ grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.

Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.

==Bike setup==

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 Many riders don't ride when it's raining, and that's all right. But just because the road is wet doesn't mean you have to stay home, or take the dreaded car to work. This piece will show some of the key tools that will allow you to survive when the weather isn't perfect.
-Learning to ride in the rain is just like learning to ride. It just takes a little time to get accustomed to it. A lot of the traction 'lost' in the rain is actually psychological. Commuters (who get stuck in the rain regularly) are usually quite comfortable in the rain.
+Learning to ride in the rain is just like learning to ride. It just takes a little time to get accustomed to it. A lot of the traction 'lost' in the rain is actually psychological. Commuters (who get stuck in the rain regularly) are usually quite comfortable in the wet.
 Things to definitely watch out for:
-*Greatly increased stopping distance (do not want to risk a lockup, obviously)
+*Greatly increased stopping distance
-*Road oils rising to surface (when rain first starts)
+*Road oils rising to surface when rain first starts
 *Manhole covers, painted lines, steel grates and railroad tracks
-*Puddles in the slow lanes (near the gutters)
+*Reduced visibility (for you ''and'' other vehicles)
-*Reduced visibility (watch out for the cages)
 *Hypothermia (cold weather and/or long trips)
-*Replace tires in a timely manner (should be done regardless of rain).
+*Puddles: in the slow lanes (near the gutters) and elsewhere (can hide potholes)
-Pick a rainy Saturday and go to an empty parking lot. Practice turning, leaning, and (very) slow (rear wheel) skids.
+Other stuff:
-See these articles for helmet-related rain tips:
+*Replace your tires in a timely manner (rain or no rain)
+*Get some [[Rain gear]]
+*See these articles for helmet-related rain tips:
 :[[Helmet Hints & Tips]]
 :[[Defogging the visor]]
+Pick a rainy Saturday and go to an empty parking lot. Practice turning, leaning, and (very) slow (rear wheel) skids.
 ==Bike control inputs==
@@ Line 39: / Line 42: @@
 Avoid a “death grip” on the bars, keeping your hands consciously loose and relaxed at all times. Think of your grips as if you’re holding a marshmallow.
-====While Cornering====
+While Cornering:
 * Support 90% of your weight with your legs (your butt should be just skimming the seat) via your feet on the footpegs. Done properly, a day of riding hard in the rain will leave your thigh muscles aching the next day.
@@ Line 51: / Line 54: @@
 Keep the bike as vertical as possible while cornering. Use less bike lean angle by getting your body position shifted an exaggerated amount off the inside for turns. Only do this if you already know how in the dry. [[Shifting body weight for a turn|Practice]]. Despite some body shifting off the bike, keep your shoulders square with the handlebars while making steering inputs.
-Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high (i.e. [http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style]"), for better steering control during cornering.
+Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high ([http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style"]) for better steering control during cornering.
 [[image: Ben_Spies_Sears_Point_2005.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 65: / Line 68: @@
 ==Bike operation==
-Have the bike in a lower gear for corners (but don’t bog the engine). This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control. The key is to have the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that allows for the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel.
+Keep the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that provides the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel. No bogging the engine, no quick revving. This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control.
 Minimize shifting while riding contiguous corners. Use smooth roll up and roll down, keeping the engine in its sweet spot and minimizing instantaneous tire loading.
@@ Line 71: / Line 74: @@
 ==Braking==
-Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking).
+Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking]]).
 Be 100% off the front brake before turning into corners.
@@ Line 112: / Line 115: @@
 Regularly scan well ahead to identify road obstacles (such as rocks, branches, or wet leaves) early enough to have time to adjust accordingly. Also scan road surfaces just ahead of you for previously undetected “gotchas”.
-Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains 1-to-1 grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.
+Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.
 ==Bike setup==