Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions

(7 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)

Line 28:

*Don't drop one of the spark plug gaskets in the engine. In the pictures those gaskets just sit there all nice and pretty. They have been known to stick to the valve cover then fall off, or find other ways of getting into the engine. Be careful.

*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the ~~brackets~~. The cover is no harder to get out with the ~~brackets~~ left in place than with the ~~brackets~~ removed. Removing the bracket ''will'' make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. ~~Drilling is the safer option~~.

*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld and remove the bracket. The cover is no harder to get out with the bracket left in place than with the bracket removed.

:Consider this "optional, but not necessary". Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out, but a lot of experienced 250 mechanics say to skip it. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. And remember, it isn't really necessary.

==Moving the radiator==

Line 34:

Line 36:

*After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes through the front of the engine. It's the one that goes through the two brackets (one on each side) that the radiator bolts to. If you back out that long bolt (it's the last one really holding the bracket) then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work.

*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it~~. With the radiator out of the way and a , they're quite easy. There are others who can't imagine doing the valves without the tool~~.

*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it.

*If you take the outlet hose off the bottom of the radiator, it's much easier to push the radiator forward to give yourself room to look at what you're doing on the exhaust valves. Of course, this means you'll be draining the coolant and will either have to pour it back in or [[How do I service the cooling system?|change it]].

Line 40:

Line 42:

==Kawasaki valve tool==

For an explanation of the Kawasaki valve tool, [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|see here]].

For an explanation of the Kawasaki valve tool, [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|see here]]. Lots of people have no trouble doing their valves without it, but there are others who can't imagine not using it.

*If you want to use a special tool, get the Kawasaki one. Other sets, specifically the Motion Pro one that's designed for use on multiple kinds of bikes, won't fit.

*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet, but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but ~~at the beginning~~ it doesn't matter ~~at all~~, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards though, ~~just~~ to make sure.

*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but when you're loosening it doesn't matter, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards, though, to make sure.

==Feeler gauges==

*You ~~don't need the special tools, but you~~ might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.

*You might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.

:The reason for the longer gauges is that the space is pretty cramped when you're actually "in there" getting it done. The longer gauges eliminate the need to have a hand actually buried in the top end while trying to get the gauge in as well. The longer ones aren't totally necessary, but they make it a little easier to get done.

*Instead of buying feeler gauges with bent tips, you can just bend the last inch on straight ones and they'll work fine.

*As far as how much force to use on the feeler gauges, not that much. Just set it so the right gauge slides in and the next size up does not.

*Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your wrist/belt/earring

Line 61:

Line 62:

:or have a long [http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998007220 magnetic pickup] standing by. Alternatively: 1. Don't take the gauge out of your set. 2. Take off the feelers you need and loop zip ties through the holes; if you do happen to drop one, it's not going far.

*~~Finding the correct amount of gap with~~ a feeler gauge ~~is easier if you use a "go-no go"~~, ~~or "stepped" gauge. The~~ old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler ~~guage~~... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:

*For telling how much pressure should be on a feeler gauge, the old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler gauge... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all.

*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:

:[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]]

Line 71:

Line 74:

*Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing.

*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this ~~was~~ very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...

*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this is very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...

*Sears also has another set that has more precision for metrics. This set has .102, .127, and .153mm feelers, which are more precise than the SAE feelers and work well for the Kawasaki tappet clearances. A little bit of confusion is created by the fact that on the back of the ~~card the gauges come on~~ the sizes are rounded to .10mm, .13, and .15, or something like that.

*Sears also has another set that has more precision for metrics. This set has .102, .127, and .153mm feelers, which are more precise than the SAE feelers and work well for the Kawasaki tappet clearances. A little bit of confusion is created by the fact that on the back of the package the sizes are rounded to .10mm, .13, and .15, or something like that.

==Leaking coolant pipe==

@@ Line 28: / Line 28: @@
 *Don't drop one of the spark plug gaskets in the engine. In the pictures those gaskets just sit there all nice and pretty. They have been known to stick to the valve cover then fall off, or find other ways of getting into the engine. Be careful.
-*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the brackets. The cover is no harder to get out with the brackets left in place than with the brackets removed. Removing the bracket ''will'' make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. Drilling is the safer option.
+*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld and remove the bracket. The cover is no harder to get out with the bracket left in place than with the bracket removed.
+:Consider this "optional, but not necessary". Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out, but a lot of experienced 250 mechanics say to skip it. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. And remember, it isn't really necessary.
 ==Moving the radiator==
@@ Line 34: / Line 36: @@
 *After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes through the front of the engine. It's the one that goes through the two brackets (one on each side) that the radiator bolts to. If you back out that long bolt (it's the last one really holding the bracket) then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work.
-*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it. With the radiator out of the way and a , they're quite easy. There are others who can't imagine doing the valves without the tool.
+*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it.
 *If you take the outlet hose off the bottom of the radiator, it's much easier to push the radiator forward to give yourself room to look at what you're doing on the exhaust valves. Of course, this means you'll be draining the coolant and will either have to pour it back in or [[How do I service the cooling system?|change it]].
@@ Line 40: / Line 42: @@
 ==Kawasaki valve tool==
-For an explanation of the Kawasaki valve tool, [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|see here]].
+For an explanation of the Kawasaki valve tool, [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|see here]]. Lots of people have no trouble doing their valves without it, but there are others who can't imagine not using it.
 *If you want to use a special tool, get the Kawasaki one. Other sets, specifically the Motion Pro one that's designed for use on multiple kinds of bikes, won't fit.
-*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet, but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but at the beginning it doesn't matter at all, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards though, just to make sure.
+*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but when you're loosening it doesn't matter, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards, though, to make sure.
 ==Feeler gauges==
-*You don't need the special tools, but you might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.
+*You might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.
 :The reason for the longer gauges is that the space is pretty cramped when you're actually "in there" getting it done. The longer gauges eliminate the need to have a hand actually buried in the top end while trying to get the gauge in as well. The longer ones aren't totally necessary, but they make it a little easier to get done.
 *Instead of buying feeler gauges with bent tips, you can just bend the last inch on straight ones and they'll work fine.
-*As far as how much force to use on the feeler gauges, not that much. Just set it so the right gauge slides in and the next size up does not.
 *Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your wrist/belt/earring
@@ Line 61: / Line 62: @@
 :or have a long [http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998007220 magnetic pickup] standing by.  Alternatively: 1. Don't take the gauge out of your set. 2. Take off the feelers you need and loop zip ties through the holes; if you do happen to drop one, it's not going far.
-*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:
+*For telling how much pressure should be on a feeler gauge, the old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler gauge... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all.
+*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:
 :[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]]
@@ Line 71: / Line 74: @@
 *Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing.
-*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this was very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...
+*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this is very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...
-*Sears also has another set that has more precision for metrics. This set has .102, .127, and .153mm feelers, which are more precise than the SAE feelers and work well for the Kawasaki tappet clearances. A little bit of confusion is created by the fact that on the back of the card the gauges come on the sizes are rounded to .10mm, .13, and .15, or something like that.
+*Sears also has another set that has more precision for metrics. This set has .102, .127, and .153mm feelers, which are more precise than the SAE feelers and work well for the Kawasaki tappet clearances. A little bit of confusion is created by the fact that on the back of the package the sizes are rounded to .10mm, .13, and .15, or something like that.
 ==Leaking coolant pipe==