Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions

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==Pre-soaking, for really gooped-up carbs==

This is really just pre-soaking. It isn't a complete cleaning. It's still necessary to do the manual cleaning as shown later in this article and in [[Cleaning the carbs 2]]. For most carbs, pre-soaking is not necessary, but hand cleaning always is.

====Pine-Sol method====

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'''Notice''': You have to keep '''all rubber and paint''' well away from it (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it.

Try Pine-Sol first. It's less caustic and less likely to eat stuff if you keep the carbs in too long.

==Stuff you need and need to know==

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[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_7.JPG|150px]]

A lot of screws on Japanese products are Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260, aka "[http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ Japanese Phillips]". These usually have a dot to one side of the cross slot (above picture). ~~These screwdrivers~~ are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun]. Using a normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.

A lot of screws on Japanese products are Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260, aka "[http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ Japanese Phillips]". These usually have a dot to one side of the cross slot (above picture). Screwdrivers to fit these are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun], among other places. Using a normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.

A couple other options for float bowl screw removal are listed below. Keep in mind that if alternative screwdrivers have any slop in the way they fit in your screw heads, you should probably have a vice grips handy. Whatever you do, plan on replacing the float bowl screws with allen-headed ones.

*Drywall driver bits work well for JIS screw heads. Some of our members have had very good results with these, and they're cheap.

*Try a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Pozidriv Pozidriv] screwdriver or bit (a #2 in this case). You may find that this fits the screw slots better than a regular phillips, although our man's success was on screws which were 'pre-rounded' by Mr Previous Owner.

*Some drywall driver bits work well for JIS screw heads, although they are supposed to be regular phillips heads.

*Take a Dremel and cut slots in the screws, then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the ridiculously soft metal screws. You may have to cut a piece off of the idle adjustment bracket to get at one of the screws.

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[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_12.JPG|150px]]

For more views of these parts, see [[Carburetor photos]].

When you take out the main jet, the emulsion tube (called 'holder' in the left picture) is behind it, with the jet needle (also called 'collar') behind that. Be sure you get these little parts out (part #16017 on the diagram), as they could fall out on their own if you don't.

[[image:Jim carb 2.jpg|150px]]

[[image:846663-2.jpg|70px]]

[[image:CARBURETOR PARTS.png|50px]]

When you replace the collars, check in the carb intake to make sure they're poking through. They only go in one way. The longer, narrower end goes in first.

For more views of all these parts, see [[Carburetor photos]].

==The cleaning process==

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Take the compressed cleaner and, using the straw, squirt fluid into every hole. You should have cleaner going into or coming out of each and every hole, though not all at the same time, and in the same volume as the other carb bodies. And it should be coming out clear (this one started greenish).

When it comes time to reassemble, the jets just screw back in, but you need to set the float height. Each set of carbs has a different recommended height (listed in the service manual for the given bike). If the floats hang too low, your bike can (and most likely will) run lean, and if they sit too high, you'll likely be fighting a rich running bike. The picture shows a special tool for measuring float height, but a 6" ruler, or even a basic set of calipers, can be used to measure the height. To measure, you want the floats to ''just'' be touching the fuel needle, which has a spring on it - you don't want to compress that. Most carbs can just be set upside down and the spring will hold the floats where they need to be; some carbs you'll need to tilt at an angle while doing the measuring. To adjust up or down, you just bend the small metal tang that rests on the fuel needle:

You should also consider cleaning up the fuel needle seats. The fuel needle fits into the big hole shown here. The tip fits into the small hole at the bottom and forms a seal. You want to clean the edge of that hole, so there isn't any crud that can cut the tip or hold it up (so it won't seal). Either of these will cause fuel to leak past.

[[image:P1000048-1024.JPG|150px]]

[[image:100_4971.jpg|150px]]

[[image:100_4970.jpg|150px]]

To do this, cut a Q-Tip in half in the middle of the stick and put it in a dremel. Put a little dab of [http://www.competitionchemicals.com/simichrome/ Simichrome] metal polish on the end and let it run at full speed for about a minute. Use the other end of the Q-Tip and carb cleaner to clean up the left-over gunk.

When it comes time to reassemble, the jets just screw back in, but you need to set the [[How do I adjust the floats?|float height]]. Each set of carbs has a different recommended height (listed in the service manual for the given bike). If the floats hang too low, your bike can (and most likely will) run lean, and if they sit too high, you'll likely be fighting a rich running bike. The picture shows a special tool for measuring float height, but a 6" ruler, or even a basic set of calipers, can be used to measure the height. To measure, you want the floats to ''just'' be touching the fuel needle, which has a spring on it - you don't want to compress that. Most carbs can just be set upside down and the spring will hold the floats where they need to be; some carbs you'll need to tilt at an angle while doing the measuring. To adjust up or down, you just bend the small metal tang that rests on the fuel needle:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_16.JPG|150px]]

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Here is the full [http://gallery.darladog.com/v/motorcycles/gsf400/carbcleaning/ gallery of photos] used in this write-up.

For another look at carb cleaning, with even more pictures, see [http://cycles.evanfell.com/2008/09/how-to-clean-a-motorcycle-carburetor-the-right-way/ Evan Fell's blog]

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 ==Pre-soaking, for really gooped-up carbs==
+This is really just pre-soaking. It isn't a complete cleaning. It's still necessary to do the manual cleaning as shown later in this article and in [[Cleaning the carbs 2]]. For most carbs, pre-soaking is not necessary, but hand cleaning always is.
 ====Pine-Sol method====
@@ Line 47: / Line 49: @@
 '''Notice''': You have to keep '''all rubber and paint''' well away from it (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it.
+Try Pine-Sol first. It's less caustic and less likely to eat stuff if you keep the carbs in too long.
 ==Stuff you need and need to know==
@@ Line 74: / Line 78: @@
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_7.JPG|150px]]
-A lot of screws on Japanese products are Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260, aka "[http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ Japanese Phillips]". These usually have a dot to one side of the cross slot (above picture). These screwdrivers are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun]. Using a normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.
+A lot of screws on Japanese products are Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260, aka "[http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ Japanese Phillips]". These usually have a dot to one side of the cross slot (above picture). Screwdrivers to fit these are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun], among other places. Using a normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.
 A couple other options for float bowl screw removal are listed below. Keep in mind that if alternative screwdrivers have any slop in the way they fit in your screw heads, you should probably have a vice grips handy. Whatever you do, plan on replacing the float bowl screws with allen-headed ones.
+*Drywall driver bits work well for JIS screw heads. Some of our members have had very good results with these, and they're cheap.
 *Try a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Pozidriv Pozidriv] screwdriver or bit (a #2 in this case). You may find that this fits the screw slots better than a regular phillips, although our man's success was on screws which were 'pre-rounded' by Mr Previous Owner.
-*Some drywall driver bits work well for JIS screw heads, although they are supposed to be regular phillips heads.
 *Take a Dremel and cut slots in the screws, then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the ridiculously soft metal screws. You may have to cut a piece off of the idle adjustment bracket to get at one of the screws.
@@ Line 114: / Line 118: @@
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_12.JPG|150px]]
-For more views of these parts, see [[Carburetor photos]].
+When you take out the main jet, the emulsion tube (called 'holder' in the left picture) is behind it, with the jet needle (also called 'collar') behind that. Be sure you get these little parts out (part #16017 on the diagram), as they could fall out on their own if you don't.
+[[image:Jim carb 2.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:846663-2.jpg|70px]]
+[[image:CARBURETOR PARTS.png|50px]]
+When you replace the collars, check in the carb intake to make sure they're poking through. They only go in one way. The longer, narrower end goes in first.
+For more views of all these parts, see [[Carburetor photos]].
 ==The cleaning process==
@@ Line 132: / Line 144: @@
 Take the compressed cleaner and, using the straw, squirt fluid into every hole. You should have cleaner going into or coming out of each and every hole, though not all at the same time, and in the same volume as the other carb bodies. And it should be coming out clear (this one started greenish).
-When it comes time to reassemble, the jets just screw back in, but you need to set the float height. Each set of carbs has a different recommended height (listed in the service manual for the given bike). If the floats hang too low, your bike can (and most likely will) run lean, and if they sit too high, you'll likely be fighting a rich running bike. The picture shows a special tool for measuring float height, but a 6" ruler, or even a basic set of calipers, can be used to measure the height. To measure, you want the floats to ''just'' be touching the fuel needle, which has a spring on it - you don't want to compress that. Most carbs can just be set upside down and the spring will hold the floats where they need to be; some carbs you'll need to tilt at an angle while doing the measuring. To adjust up or down, you just bend the small metal tang that rests on the fuel needle:
+You should also consider cleaning up the fuel needle seats. The fuel needle fits into the big hole shown here. The tip fits into the small hole at the bottom and forms a seal. You want to clean the edge of that hole, so there isn't any crud that can cut the tip or hold it up (so it won't seal). Either of these will cause fuel to leak past.
+[[image:P1000048-1024.JPG|150px]]
+[[image:100_4971.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:100_4970.jpg|150px]]
+To do this, cut a Q-Tip in half in the middle of the stick and put it in a dremel. Put a little dab of [http://www.competitionchemicals.com/simichrome/ Simichrome] metal polish on the end and let it run at full speed for about a minute. Use the other end of the Q-Tip and carb cleaner to clean up the left-over gunk.
+When it comes time to reassemble, the jets just screw back in, but you need to set the [[How do I adjust the floats?|float height]]. Each set of carbs has a different recommended height (listed in the service manual for the given bike). If the floats hang too low, your bike can (and most likely will) run lean, and if they sit too high, you'll likely be fighting a rich running bike. The picture shows a special tool for measuring float height, but a 6" ruler, or even a basic set of calipers, can be used to measure the height. To measure, you want the floats to ''just'' be touching the fuel needle, which has a spring on it - you don't want to compress that. Most carbs can just be set upside down and the spring will hold the floats where they need to be; some carbs you'll need to tilt at an angle while doing the measuring. To adjust up or down, you just bend the small metal tang that rests on the fuel needle:
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_16.JPG|150px]]
@@ Line 153: / Line 173: @@
 Here is the full [http://gallery.darladog.com/v/motorcycles/gsf400/carbcleaning/ gallery of photos] used in this write-up.
+For another look at carb cleaning, with even more pictures, see [http://cycles.evanfell.com/2008/09/how-to-clean-a-motorcycle-carburetor-the-right-way/ Evan Fell's blog]