Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

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It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding, so to check your bearings you need to get the front wheel [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|in the air]]. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground and feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least).

To check for proper steering head tightness: With the wheel still in the air, grab the black part of the forks near the wheel (lower fork legs). Try to move them forward and backward. They should not move. If you have movement, chances are the steering head bearings are loose and need to be adjusted, and probably greased.

==Disassembly==

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You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.

It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt while the front of the bike is still on the ground.

It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt (and other bolts) while the front of the bike is still on the ground. Turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.

These things need to be removed:

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* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.

~~To remove~~ the stem head bolt, turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.

Remove the stem head bolt that you already loosened. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.

The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.

:[[image:shock spanner.jpg|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif|115px]]

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If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.

Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.

Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs.

Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]~~. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs~~. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding, so to check your bearings you need to get the front wheel [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|in the air]]. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground and feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least).
+To check for proper steering head tightness: With the wheel still in the air, grab the black part of the forks near the wheel (lower fork legs). Try to move them forward and backward. They should not move. If you have movement, chances are the steering head bearings are loose and need to be adjusted, and probably greased.
 ==Disassembly==
@@ Line 58: / Line 60: @@
 You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.
-It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt while the front of the bike is still on the ground.
+It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt (and other bolts) while the front of the bike is still on the ground. Turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.
 These things need to be removed:
@@ Line 72: / Line 74: @@
 * Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.
-To remove the stem head bolt, turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.
+Remove the stem head bolt that you already loosened. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.
-The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.
 :[[image:shock spanner.jpg|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif|115px]]
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 If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.
-Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.
+Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs.
-Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
+Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
 Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.