Fairing repair with Plastic Weld and fiberglass: Difference between revisions

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This technique uses a product named "Plastic Weld". It's marketed by a half-dozen different companies, but you should be able to walk into nearly any auto parts or hardware store and find something like [http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84115-PermaPoxy-minute-Plastic/dp/B000ALBZK8 this product] from Permatex.  
This technique uses a product named "Plastic Weld". It's marketed by a half-dozen different companies, but you should be able to walk into nearly any auto parts or hardware store and find something like [http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84115-PermaPoxy-minute-Plastic/dp/B000ALBZK8 this product] from Permatex.  


[[image: IMG_1171.jpg|100px]]
[[image:IMG_1171.jpg|100px]]


You can just smear this stuff all over something like a broken fairing corner (shown below) and stick it back together, but reinforcing the area would be better.  
You can just smear this stuff all over something like a broken fairing corner (shown below) and stick it back together, but reinforcing the area would be better.  


[[image: IMG_1181.jpg|130px]]
[[image:IMG_1181.jpg|130px]]
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[[image:IMG_1180.jpg|130px]]


Reinforcement is as simple as using some [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=S7Q99R00F8gsFDKXQL309JglLT9WKZ59JMbl fiberglass mat]. This is a hole where the turn signal mount should have been. Rebuilding the area with Plastic Weld and fiberglass made it more durable with less flex than the other side:  
Reinforcement is as simple as using some [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=S7Q99R00F8gsFDKXQL309JglLT9WKZ59JMbl fiberglass mat]. This is a hole where the turn signal mount should have been. Rebuilding the area with Plastic Weld and fiberglass made it more durable with less flex than the other side:  
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====Fixing cracks====
====Fixing cracks====


Clean the parts as well as possible with a degreaser. Then for cracks, use a dremel to put a ''very'' small notch (a V-shaped channel) on the back side. Into that put a filling of the Plastic Weld, then a layer of fiberglass over the crack. Make it an inch or two wider on either side for good coverage. Then work more Plastic Weld through the fiberglass.  
Clean the parts as well as possible with a degreaser. Then for cracks, use a dremel to put a ''very'' small notch (a V-shaped channel) on the back side. Into that put a filling of the Plastic Weld, then a layer of fiberglass over the crack. Make it an inch or two wider on either side for good coverage. Then work more Plastic Weld through the fiberglass from the inside until it is completely saturated. Working from the inside could save you from having to repaint the crack.  


The technical bit behind this is that the fiberglass just adds strength in a way that only a mesh grid can, and the Plastic Weld acts as a bonding agent that sticks to the fairing ''and'' the fiberglass.
The technical bit behind this is that the fiberglass just adds strength in a way that only a mesh grid can, and the Plastic Weld acts as a bonding agent that sticks to the fairing ''and'' the fiberglass.
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Before:


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[[image:IMG_0965.jpg|130px]]
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[[image:IMG_0966.jpg|130px]]


For big holes, such as repairing the usual turn-signal-punched-a-hole-in-the-fairing, You may want to do some additional reinforcement. Cut a template.


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Aluminum is too heavy/bulky, 


For big holes, such as repairing the usual turn-signal-punched-a-hole-in-the-fairing, cut a template.
[[image:IMG_1172.jpg|150px]]


[[image: IMG_1169.jpg|150px]]
so use cardboard. That has the added advantage of soaking up the epoxy.


Use something like aluminum for reinforcement.
[[image: IMG_1174.jpg|150px]]


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Work the Plastic Weld into the fiberglass from the back side. Use a [http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/F-E-381/Fiberglass+Repair+Plastic+Spreaders.html plastic spreader] (should be available at an auto parts store) to push the epoxy through the fiberglass so it's ''completely'' saturated. A small paintbrush may help as well.
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'''These are the questions:'''
First one:
 
[[image: IMG_1174-2.jpg]]
 
A:
 
Q: And do you work the Plastic Weld through from both sides?
 
A:


[[image:body filler spreader.jpg|110px]]
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[[image: IMG_1175.jpg|150px]]
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Q: What do you use to apply the Plastic Weld? I had in mind using your hands (guess that would be a little messy, but I generally don't think about such things until I'm in the middle of them), but the Sport Rider article shows a small paintbrush, which I guess would be better. Or maybe a putty knife?...
A:
'''end questions'''
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Drill any holes that may be necessary.  
Drill any holes that may be necessary.