Motorcycle TCO: Difference between revisions

[[Category:New_Riders]]

Getting into motorcycling is not cheap.  If you're doing it because you think you're going to save money, please read this article carefully.  For everyone else, this is simply a forewarning of what's coming.

Simply stated, motorcycling is a dangerous activity.  It is wise and prudent to protect yourself as best you can.  This will prevent much higher costs incurred through hospital fees if anything should go wrong.  There are [[Protective Gear|other articles which cover this topic]] in more depth, so this will be a quick once-over to review costs.

So, that's $550 (plus local taxes) to get yourself decently geared up for riding.  Not terrible so far, but that makes the cost of a Ninja 250 a bit more than you might have been planning on.  Note that some dealerships will throw in a gear discount when you buy your bike; this is an excellent time to buy gear if you can afford it.  Note that prices listed tend to be bare minimum; high-quality (or high-feature or high-comfort) gear can cost considerably more.

You don't want to leave your bike unsecured, out in the cold and rain, do you?  Here's a list of accessories that people commonly buy, although this is not a recommendation for or against any of these products.

<b>Running total: $685</b>

There are some parts which are worth having on hand, although this is getting into questionable territory.  Many people only buy parts when they're necessary, which spreads out the cost.  However, all of these parts will eventually be necessary.  Also listed are the approximate mileages at which that part might need replacement.  The abbreviation "k" (for "kilo") is used to indicate thousands (6k = 6,000).

* [[How do I install a fuel filter?|Fuel filter]] (every 20k miles): $3

* [[How do I replace the chain?|Drive chain]] (every 15k miles): $80-200

* Turn signal and brake bulbs (varies; around 8-10k miles): $3/pair

* [[How do I replace the brake pads?|Brake]] [[What replacement pads should I consider?|pads]] (every 10k miles): $30-50 per set (ie, $60-100 total for front and rear)

<b>Running total: $1115.50</b>

Because this is an article on the cost of ownership, it follows the "cheap as possible" credo.  Labor rates appear in the next section, but if you're a willing learner, [[What should a good set of tools include?|tools]] are far cheaper than paying for someone else's time over the long run.

Note that it's possible to find tools cheaper than the prices listed.  Used tools are available at used tool shops, and if you really want to learn how to curse well, you can buy inexpensive new tools.  Buying [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|quality tools]], whether new or used, is highly recommended.

If you don't expect you'll do your own work on the bike, you'll need to count on some amount of service being done by a mechanic.  Rates are quite variable, but for the purposes of this article, we'll use $70 per hour for calculating prices.  Hours are also listed, so you should be able to figure your local prices based on your shop's hourly rate.

The running total is not applicable to this section, since labor is so variable.

No one counts on getting into an accident.  However, they happen; when they happen, the costs can add up quickly.