Custom, Tunable Supertrapp Slip-ons: Difference between revisions

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*Enough straight pipe to extend the donor midpipes rearward by 6"; give yourself a buffer. A local Midas shop did this one for $20, parts & labor. He used pipe that was the same diameter as the midpipes and expanded it slightly where it overlaps the mids for consistent pipe diameter back to the mufflers. He then welded the new material onto the donor mids.

*Two 3.9" ~~(max.~~ diameter) stainless steel t-bolt clamps from [http://store.summitracing.com/~~egnsearch~~.asp?N=700+115~~+4294923429~~&~~NeXID~~=~~4 Summit Racing~~]. About $11.00. Rubber insulators, from a set of muffler straps that were too large, were used under these.

*Two 3.9" diameter stainless steel t-bolt clamps from Summit Racing. Our fabricator couldn't remember the exact ones he used, but they should be [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SME%2D240400&N=700+303986+115&autoview=sku something like this]. About $11.00. Rubber insulators, from a set of muffler straps that were too large, were used under these.

*Two rubber exhaust hangers from Pep Boys, about $4.00 each. They are oblong and have holes 2" center to center. You'll use these to mount the Supertrapps to your existing rear peg brackets. The bottom third of the hanger will need to be narrowed by 1/8" (on the inside) to accommodate the bolt in the t-bolt strap and two washers; this is easily done with a small hacksaw and file.

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Go to your friendly local welder or exhaust specialist and ask him or her to add 6" to the rear of each of your mids. Ask your welder to use the same diameter pipe and to heat/mechanically expand it to fit over the cut midpipe before welding. This way, your newly extended mid will fit inside your Supertrapp inlet without issue.

Paint your completed mids and stock clamps with [[I want to repaint my exhaust pipes.|exhaust paint]]. You could powder coat them, but it's pricier. Another alternative is to ~~[http://vtwinplus.com/Jan2005/techspotliteheatwrap.htm~~ wrap your mids], which has aesthetic and scientific merit, some believe.

Paint your completed mids and stock clamps with [[I want to repaint my exhaust pipes|exhaust paint]]. You could powder coat them, but it's pricier. Another alternative is to use exhaust wrap on your mids, which has aesthetic and scientific merit, some believe. Others believe it merely makes everything rust quicker.

NOTE: You may want to mock up your system on the bike now, before you paint.

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After you have logged 100 miles or so, check your fittings.

The sound is a lot like the [[Two Brothers Racing ~~Exhaust~~|Two Brothers]] system, except it's a "rounder" sound with no "sharp edges", so to speak.

The sound is a lot like the [[Two Brothers Racing Slip-ons|Two Brothers]] system, except it's a "rounder" sound with no "sharp edges", so to speak.

'''[http://www.hopescopefamilyonline.com/media-files/100_0629.mov Sound clip]'''

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====Owner reaction====

After several rides: With five discs in each can, a properly tuned stock motor idles steadily at about 1300 rpm, has crisp throttle response off idle, and no flat spots. This seems to be a very happy bike.

Thanks to the hard rubber mounting fixtures to the rear peg brackets, there is virtually no vibration, and the stainless cans dissipate heat very effectively. Moreover, though the bike is louder than stock, it's not annoyingly so - one could still easily have an Ipod bud in one ear - and there are no unpleasant or jarring tones at any rpm. The bike's sound is reminiscent of a 90-degree V-twin... like a small-displacement Ducati Monster.

@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 *Enough straight pipe to extend the donor midpipes rearward by 6"; give yourself a buffer. A local Midas shop did this one for $20, parts & labor. He used pipe that was the same diameter as the midpipes and expanded it slightly where it overlaps the mids for consistent pipe diameter back to the mufflers. He then welded the new material onto the donor mids.
-*Two 3.9" (max. diameter) stainless steel t-bolt clamps from [http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+4294923429&NeXID=4 Summit Racing]. About $11.00. Rubber insulators, from a set of muffler straps that were too large, were used under these.
+*Two 3.9" diameter stainless steel t-bolt clamps from Summit Racing. Our fabricator couldn't remember the exact ones he used, but they should be [http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SME%2D240400&N=700+303986+115&autoview=sku something like this]. About $11.00. Rubber insulators, from a set of muffler straps that were too large, were used under these.
 *Two rubber exhaust hangers from Pep Boys, about $4.00 each. They are oblong and have holes 2" center to center. You'll use these to mount the Supertrapps to your existing rear peg brackets. The bottom third of the hanger will need to be narrowed by 1/8" (on the inside) to accommodate the bolt in the t-bolt strap and two washers; this is easily done with a small hacksaw and file.
@@ Line 28: / Line 28: @@
 Go to your friendly local welder or exhaust specialist and ask him or her to add 6" to the rear of each of your mids. Ask your welder to use the same diameter pipe and to heat/mechanically expand it to fit over the cut midpipe before welding. This way, your newly extended mid will fit inside your Supertrapp inlet without issue.
-Paint your completed mids and stock clamps with [[I want to repaint my exhaust pipes.|exhaust paint]]. You could powder coat them, but it's pricier. Another alternative is to [http://vtwinplus.com/Jan2005/techspotliteheatwrap.htm wrap your mids], which has aesthetic and scientific merit, some believe.
+Paint your completed mids and stock clamps with [[I want to repaint my exhaust pipes|exhaust paint]]. You could powder coat them, but it's pricier. Another alternative is to use exhaust wrap on your mids, which has aesthetic and scientific merit, some believe. Others believe it merely makes everything rust quicker.
 NOTE: You may want to mock up your system on the bike now, before you paint.
@@ Line 52: / Line 52: @@
 After you have logged 100 miles or so, check your fittings.
-The sound is a lot like the [[Two Brothers Racing Exhaust|Two Brothers]] system, except it's a "rounder" sound with no "sharp edges", so to speak.
+The sound is a lot like the [[Two Brothers Racing Slip-ons|Two Brothers]] system, except it's a "rounder" sound with no "sharp edges", so to speak.
 '''[http://www.hopescopefamilyonline.com/media-files/100_0629.mov Sound clip]'''
@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 [[Image:Supertrapp1.jpg|170px]] [[Image:Supertrapp2.jpg|170px]]  [[Image:Supertrapp3.jpg|150px]]  [[Image:Supertrapp4.jpg|170px]] [[Image:Supertrapp5.jpg|170px]]
+====Owner reaction====
+After several rides: With five discs in each can, a properly tuned stock motor idles steadily at about 1300 rpm, has crisp throttle response off idle, and no flat spots. This seems to be a very happy bike.
+Thanks to the hard rubber mounting fixtures to the rear peg brackets, there is virtually no vibration, and the stainless cans dissipate heat very effectively. Moreover, though the bike is louder than stock, it's not annoyingly so - one could still easily have an Ipod bud in one ear - and there are no unpleasant or jarring tones at any rpm. The bike's sound is reminiscent of a 90-degree V-twin... like a small-displacement Ducati Monster.