Oil Change Procedure: Difference between revisions
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====Stuff you need==== | ====Stuff you need==== | ||
Once you decide to change the oil in your bike, the process is not that difficult. First, gather together the needed supplies. You'll need oil, [[Oil Filters| | Once you decide to change the oil in your bike, the process is not that difficult. First, gather together the needed supplies. You'll need 2 quarts of [[Preferred Brands|oil]], a [[Oil Filters| filter]] and a drain pan. You should also have a new drain plug washer (part number 92065-097). This is a very common part, fitting dozens of Kawasaki motorcycles. Your dealer ''should'' have some around. | ||
One other thing that you will have to have before you start changing the oil is a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Misc torque wrench]. '''This is mandatory.''' Learn how to use it before you change your oil for the first time. Don't practice on your drain plug. | One other thing that you will have to have before you start changing the oil is a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Misc torque wrench]. '''This is mandatory.''' Learn how to use it before you change your oil for the first time. Don't practice on your drain plug. | ||
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====The process==== | ====The process==== | ||
Warm up the engine [[Warming up your engine| | Warm up the engine by [[Warming up your engine|riding it]]. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a couple minutes. Place the bike on the centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional. Some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. | ||
First, remove the drain plug and drain the oil into a suitable 3+ quart pan (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain until it's obvious that no more is going to come out. This will usually be 5+ minutes. | First, remove the drain plug and drain the oil into a suitable 3+ quart pan (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain until it's obvious that no more is going to come out. This will usually be 5+ minutes. | ||
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Here is a diagram of the filter assembly. | Here is a diagram of the filter assembly. | ||
[[Image: | [[Image:OIL_PUMP_OIL_FILTER-2.png|100px]] | ||
Make sure the drain plug washer is installed on the drain plug and tighten the drain plug to 14.5 ft/lbs (the same as the filter bolt). Use a new drain plug | Make sure the drain plug washer is installed on the drain plug and tighten the drain plug to 14.5 ft/lbs (the same as the filter bolt). Use a new drain plug washer (92065-097 GASKET, 12X22X2). Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. When you reuse the crush washer, you run the risk of oil seeping out around the already compressed (old) crush washer. Why skimp on a $0.33 part (92065-097 from [http://ronayers.com/ ronayers.com])? Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02. | ||
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Make sure you check for leaks, and [[How do I check my oil?|check your oil level]] frequently. | Make sure you check for leaks, and [[How do I check my oil?|check your oil level]] frequently. Ride it for a few minutes and check for leaks again. Make sure there is no oil leaking from around the filter assembly or drain plug. | ||
====Notes==== | ====Notes==== | ||