Mounting & balancing tires yourself: Difference between revisions

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[[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg|120px]]

If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/~~cpi/ctaf/displayitem~~.~~taf?Itemnumber=92961~~ Harbor Freight] ~~or [http://www~~.~~jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004055/~~c-~~10111/Nty-1/p-2004055/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker JC Whitney]~~. ~~Whitney also has a~~ [http://www.jcwhitney.com/~~autoparts/Product/Pr~~-~~p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c~~-~~10111~~/~~Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup~~?~~Ntt~~=~~bead+breaker less expensive model~~].

If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight]. It stores somewhat compact and works many times better than a c-clamp. [http://www.jcwhitney.com/tire-bead-breaker/p2004021.jcwx?filterid=j1# JC Whitney] has one that appears to be the same.

[[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg|150px]]

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[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG|150px]]

Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!).

Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250).

==~~Find~~ the wheel's heavy point==

==Finding the wheel's heavy point==

Before you put the tire on the rim, you need to find the wheel's heavy point. You only need to do this once for the lifetime of each wheel. Go to [[How can I balance the tires by myself?]] and do that part now. It will also tell you how to use the factory's paint mark to find the correct point to mount the tire on the wheel.

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Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube (see [[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips|Hints & Tips]]) on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.

~~There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works.~~ Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim~~, work~~ your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.

Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim and the first bead in the low center part of the rim. Work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.

[[Image:p8181947.jpg|150px]]

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Once the bead seems to be seated, look for an even ring on the tire all the way around the rim. There are usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple. There should be an even distance between the ring and the rim all the way around. If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.

Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up~~. Go a little over what you normally run until you get it back on the bike. It's always easier to let some out than to add some back~~.

Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up.

==Balancing==

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After you've balanced the wheel, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.

~~[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|~~Reinstall the wheel~~]] (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this~~:

Reinstall the wheel:

~~Sit on~~ the ~~ground behind the bike. Hold~~ the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel ~~up and down a little with your left hand.~~

*[[Reinstalling the front wheel|Front wheel]]

*[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|Rear wheel]]

~~If you get it back on and it doesn't seem quite right, check that your spacers are all in order~~. ~~Should look like this:~~

Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything.

~~[[image:DSC00424.jpg|150px]]~~

~~If you have trouble with~~ the ~~wheel not spinning after the front is back on, check that~~ the ~~speedometer drive is~~ [[~~Reinstalling the front wheel~~|~~installed correctly~~]].

==Links==

@@ Line 59: / Line 59: @@
 [[image:bar clamp craftsman.jpg|120px]]
-If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92961 Harbor Freight] or [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004055/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004055/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker JC Whitney]. Whitney also has a [http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004056/c-10111/Nty-1/p-2004056/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-111+10111+500000/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=bead+breaker less expensive model].
+If you want to be one of the cool kids, you can get one of these from [http://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html Harbor Freight]. It stores somewhat compact and works many times better than a c-clamp. [http://www.jcwhitney.com/tire-bead-breaker/p2004021.jcwx?filterid=j1# JC Whitney] has one that appears to be the same.
 [[Image:HFbeadbreaker.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 105: / Line 105: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 13.JPG|150px]]
-Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!).
+Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4-digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3 or 4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250).
-==Find the wheel's heavy point==
+==Finding the wheel's heavy point==
 Before you put the tire on the rim, you need to find the wheel's heavy point. You only need to do this once for the lifetime of each wheel. Go to [[How can I balance the tires by myself?]] and do that part now. It will also tell you how to use the factory's paint mark to find the correct point to mount the tire on the wheel.
@@ Line 121: / Line 121: @@
 Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube (see [[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips|Hints & Tips]]) on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.
-There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works. Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim, work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.
+Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim and the first bead in the low center part of the rim. Work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.
 [[Image:p8181947.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 139: / Line 139: @@
 Once the bead seems to be seated, look for an even ring on the tire all the way around the rim. There are usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple. There should be an even distance between the ring and the rim all the way around. If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.
-Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. Go a little over what you normally run until you get it back on the bike. It's always easier to let some out than to add some back.
+Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up.
 ==Balancing==
@@ Line 151: / Line 151: @@
 After you've balanced the wheel, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to put the wheels back on the bike and go for a ride.
-[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|Reinstall the wheel]] (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:
+Reinstall the wheel:
-Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.
+*[[Reinstalling the front wheel|Front wheel]]
+*[[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|Rear wheel]]
-If you get it back on and it doesn't seem quite right, check that your spacers are all in order. Should look like this:
+Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything.
-[[image:DSC00424.jpg|150px]]
-If you have trouble with the wheel not spinning after the front is back on, check that the speedometer drive is [[Reinstalling the front wheel|installed correctly]].
 ==Links==