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Rebuilding the petcock/fuel tap: Difference between revisions

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*Get a used one from eBay or one of the [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Where_can_I_buy_parts/tools_online%3F#Junkyards.2C_err..._Used_Parts usual sources]
*Get a used one from eBay or one of the [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Where_can_I_buy_parts/tools_online%3F#Junkyards.2C_err..._Used_Parts usual sources]
*Get the parts and rebuild it yourself
*Get the parts and rebuild it yourself
This illustration shows how everything goes together on the petcock.
[[image:832902.jpg|100px]]


====Obtaining parts====
====Obtaining parts====


What you decide to do will likely depend on whether you can diagnose which part of the petcock is damaged. This will, of course, involve taking it apart and looking at it before you order parts. This is the cheapest way, but you'll have to wait for parts.  
What you decide to do will likely depend on whether you can diagnose which part of the petcock is damaged. This will, of course, involve taking it apart and looking at it before you order parts. This is the cheapest way, but you'll have to wait for parts.
 
If you want to order parts from your dealer or one of the [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|OEM online sources]], here is what you'll need:
 
* SPRING,TAP DIAPHRAGM- 92081-1240
* DIAPHRAGM,TAP- 43028-1068
* RING-O- 92055-1664
* PACKING- 43049-1103
* RING-O,TAP LEVER- 92055-1085
* RING,TAP FLANGED- 51039-003
 
[[Image:FUEL_TANK.png|100px]]


There is a rebuild kit from K&L Supply, part #18-2723, but it is for the E series (86-87) bikes. It doesn't have the correct diaphragm for the later F (88-07) bikes. All the other parts are the right ones, but if your diaphragm is bad, plan on spending another $25 on top of the $25 for this kit, which puts you in the ballpark for a new one, already put together.


K&L Supply part #s:
'''A kit, sort of'''
 
There is a rebuild kit from K&L Supply, part #18-2723, but it is for the E series (86-87) bikes. It doesn't have the correct diaphragm for the later F (88-07) bikes. All the other parts are the right ones, but if your diaphragm is bad, plan on spending another $25 on top of the $25 for this kit.
 
K&L Supply part numbers:


*86-87 rebuild kit: #18-2723
*86-87 rebuild kit: #18-2723
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[[image:IMG_0044.JPG|150px]]
[[image:IMG_0044.JPG|150px]]
[[image:diaphragms.jpg|150px]]
[[image:diaphragms.jpg|150px]]
If you want to order the parts separately, here is what you'll need:
* SPRING,TAP DIAPHRAGM- 92081-1240
* DIAPHRAGM,TAP- 43028-1068
* RING-O- 92055-1664
* PACKING- 43049-1103
* RING-O,TAP LEVER- 92055-1085
* RING,TAP FLANGED- 51039-003
[[Image:FUEL_TANK.png|100px]]


====Checking the vent====
====Checking the vent====
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[[image:5_Diaphram vent.jpg|150px]]
[[image:5_Diaphram vent.jpg|150px]]
[[image:6_Diaphram vent2.jpg|150px]]
[[image:4_Vacuum Routing.jpg|150px]]


====Rebuild process====
====Rebuild process====
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The rebuild is pretty straightforward. [[How do I drain the fuel tank?|Drain the tank]] and [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|remove it]]. Then take the petcock off the tank.  
The rebuild is pretty straightforward. [[How do I drain the fuel tank?|Drain the tank]] and [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|remove it]]. Then take the petcock off the tank.  


Remove the 5 screws on the back side.
Remove the 5 screws on the back side. Be careful when you open it, since there is a small spring inside.  


[[image:1_Petcock_Rr view.jpg|150px]]
[[image:1_Petcock_Rr view.jpg|150px]]
 
[[image:2_Step1_Bk plate rmvd.jpg|150px]]
Be careful when you open it, since there is a small spring inside.  


[[image:IMG_0032.JPG|150px]]  
[[image:IMG_0032.JPG|150px]]  
[[image:3_Step2_Dphrm rmvd.jpg|150px]]


The diaphragm has two flaps and goes through the plastic spacer. If you are not going to replace it, just leave it alone. You can take it out of the plastic spacer, but be careful when you do. Take note of the small hump on the plastic piece so you put it back together the right way. Notice how the pointed part is not even on both sides.  
The diaphragm has two flaps and goes through the plastic spacer. If you are not going to replace it, just leave it alone. You can take it out of the plastic spacer, but be careful when you do. Take note of the small hump on the plastic piece so you put it back together the right way. Notice how the pointed part is not even on both sides.  
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[[image:IMG_0033.JPG|150px]]
[[image:IMG_0033.JPG|150px]]
[[image:7_Front view.jpg|150px]]


The lever body pulls straight out. You might feel some resistance, since there is an o-ring on it. Once you have it out, take the o-ring off.  
The lever body pulls straight out. You might feel some resistance, since there is an o-ring on it. Once you have it out, take the o-ring off.  
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[[image:IMG_0035.JPG|150px]]
[[image:IMG_0035.JPG|150px]]
[[image:8_Front disassembled.jpg|150px]]


This one was a little chewed on.  
This one was a little chewed on.  
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[[image:IMG_0032_labeled.jpg|150px]]
[[image:IMG_0032_labeled.jpg|150px]]


Make sure everything is nice and clean. Replace the o-rings on the diaphragm and lever body, then reassemble. You should now have a clean, leak-free petcock. The kit comes with a new o-ring for the petcock-to-gas tank connection as well.
Make sure everything is nice and clean. Replace the o-rings on the diaphragm and lever body, then reassemble. Put some grease on the spring washer and valve plate when putting it back together (see photo).
 
[[image:7a_Front view.jpg|150px]]
 
You should now have a clean, leak-free petcock. The kit comes with a new o-ring for the petcock-to-gas tank connection as well.


You should probably change your oil now, before you start it up. If the petcock has been leaking into the oil, not only will you have too much oil, what's in there will be thinned out and much less effective. You don't want to replace major engine components just because of that.
You should probably change your oil now, before you start it up. If the petcock has been leaking into the oil, not only will you have too much oil, what's in there will be thinned out and much less effective. You don't want to replace major engine components just because of that.
===Rebuilding Vs New===
If your petcock is shot, save your time, and money and get a new one, the cost of rebuilding it isn't much cheaper, due to you need two separate kits, as they for some reason don't make just one.
New one cost about $65.00
1988~00 models
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-51023-1139.html
2001~07 models
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-51023-1393.html
Also be sure to order the orings(92022-183 WASHER,6.2X11X1.5)and new bolts(92001-1091BOLT,6X20),trust me you'll be better off in the long run.
Rebuilding kits are about $60 total.
K&L Supply Diaphragm Only for Fuel Petcock Repair Kit 18-6638 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055DWO60/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_s1CGub1W9N3PH
K&L Supply Fuel Petcock Repair Kit 18-2723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KO2JRW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_U1CGub05DT5NT
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuilding_the_petcock/fuel_tap
IMHO not worth it rebuilding, also be sure to check vacuum and fuel lines for wear, holes, and cracks, if in doubt replace them. Also replace the two small O-rings on the bolts for the petcock part# 92022.
This is the time to add an inline filter filter, if you don't have one already.
K&N 81-0221 Fuel Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E2AR70/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ncMwwbE333H0E
[[image:FUEL_TANK.png|450px]]
UPDATE by Ghostt: K&L SUPPLY now makes a complete kit for 88-07 models, according to their own 2016 catalog, Part # 18-2702.
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