Hints & Tips: Streetfighter: Difference between revisions

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*The Acerbis headlights attach with rubber straps that lock around the forks. You need to put spacers in because they are made for bigger forks, but they mount quite easily. The wiring is simple. The trick is your instruments. You can cut out the stock speedo and zip tie it in behind the light. You can also use a digital bike speedo if you like. Make sure you get a Sigma if you're using a bike speedo. Most others top out at ~60 mph.

*Napoleons are great mirrors. You get some vibration, but you see SO much more than with stock mirrors. They are easy to install, as long as you have an impact driver and a torch to get the bar ends off. (The torch is for heating up the Loc-Tite on the threads; you can also dunk the bar ends in hot water for ten minutes to soften up the Loc-Tite. ~~Search the site~~ for ways of removing the bar ends.) They come with a rubber grommet for putting in bars with no nuts welded in them; all you have to do is either trim the grommet down or remove it and screw the bolt they give you into the nut welded into your handlebar.

*Napoleons are great mirrors. You get some vibration, but you see SO much more than with stock mirrors. They are easy to install, as long as you have an impact driver and a torch to get the bar ends off. (The torch is for heating up the Loc-Tite on the threads; you can also dunk the bar ends in hot water for ten minutes to soften up the Loc-Tite. [[Removing & replacing bar ends|See this article]] for ways of removing the bar ends.) They come with a rubber grommet for putting in bars with no nuts welded in them; all you have to do is either trim the grommet down or remove it and screw the bolt they give you into the nut welded into your handlebar.

*For mounting signals, go to the hardware store, buy some small "L" brackets, drill out the holes larger if you need to, then mount them to the top bolts of your radiator. The post of the signal goes through one hole, and the bolt for the rad goes through another hole.

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*You can grab a digital tach and a digital speedo from JC Whitney and mount them to the triple tree.

*If you're worried about the exposed wiring below the headlight and the open turn signal wires, just use some dielectric grease (non-conductive grease) to coat all open connections, like the turn signals and the points where the harness plugs together, and you'll be fine.

*If you're worried about the exposed wiring below the headlight and the open turn signal wires, just use some dielectric grease (non-conductive grease) to [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|coat all open connections]], like the turn signals and the points where the harness plugs together, and you'll be fine.

*A mirror alternative: In a good dirt bike shop that caters to DP riders (those who convert non-street-legal bikes to street legal) you'll find a replacement front clamp for both the brake and clutch lever. It's just the front U part that the bolts run through and it has the mirror threads in the top.

:If you're having a tough time finding them, you can get them at [https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/mainframe2.aspx?content= Baja Designs] for $16 EACH, although they can be had for cheaper.

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 *The Acerbis headlights attach with rubber straps that lock around the forks. You need to put spacers in because they are made for bigger forks, but they mount quite easily. The wiring is simple. The trick is your instruments. You can cut out the stock speedo and zip tie it in behind the light. You can also use a digital bike speedo if you like. Make sure you get a Sigma if you're using a bike speedo. Most others top out at ~60 mph.
-*Napoleons are great mirrors. You get some vibration, but you see SO much more than with stock mirrors. They are easy to install, as long as you have an impact driver and a torch to get the bar ends off. (The torch is for heating up the Loc-Tite on the threads; you can also dunk the bar ends in hot water for ten minutes to soften up the Loc-Tite. Search the site for ways of removing the bar ends.) They come with a rubber grommet for putting in bars with no nuts welded in them; all you have to do is either trim the grommet down or remove it and screw the bolt they give you into the nut welded into your handlebar.
+*Napoleons are great mirrors. You get some vibration, but you see SO much more than with stock mirrors. They are easy to install, as long as you have an impact driver and a torch to get the bar ends off. (The torch is for heating up the Loc-Tite on the threads; you can also dunk the bar ends in hot water for ten minutes to soften up the Loc-Tite. [[Removing & replacing bar ends|See this article]] for ways of removing the bar ends.) They come with a rubber grommet for putting in bars with no nuts welded in them; all you have to do is either trim the grommet down or remove it and screw the bolt they give you into the nut welded into your handlebar.
 *For mounting signals, go to the hardware store, buy some small "L" brackets, drill out the holes larger if you need to, then mount them to the top bolts of your radiator. The post of the signal goes through one hole, and the bolt for the rad goes through another hole.
@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 *You can grab a digital tach and a digital speedo from JC Whitney and mount them to the triple tree.
-*If you're worried about the exposed wiring below the headlight and the open turn signal wires, just use some dielectric grease (non-conductive grease) to coat all open connections, like the turn signals and the points where the harness plugs together, and you'll be fine.
+*If you're worried about the exposed wiring below the headlight and the open turn signal wires, just use some dielectric grease (non-conductive grease) to [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|coat all open connections]], like the turn signals and the points where the harness plugs together, and you'll be fine.
 *A mirror alternative: In a good dirt bike shop that caters to DP riders (those who convert non-street-legal bikes to street legal) you'll find a replacement front clamp for both the brake and clutch lever. It's just the front U part that the bolts run through and it has the mirror threads in the top.
 :If you're having a tough time finding them, you can get them at [https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/mainframe2.aspx?content= Baja Designs] for $16 EACH, although they can be had for cheaper.