Accelerating, changing gears: Difference between revisions

 
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The following suggestions are just that. Get used to what works for you, and keep in mind that your Ninja '''likes''' to work at high engine speeds. These are not guidelines for how to get the best gas mileage from your engine. However, they will help you avoid stumbling at low rpm and keep the engine spinning fast enough to be of some use if you need to suddenly go faster.
The following suggestions are just that. Get used to what works for you, and keep in mind that your Ninja '''likes''' to work at high engine speeds. These are not guidelines for how to get the best gas mileage from your engine. However, they will help you avoid stumbling at low rpm and keep the engine spinning fast enough to be of some use if you need to suddenly go faster.


* Mellow takeoff from a light: 3-4000 RPM
* Mellow takeoff from a light: 3-4000 rpm
* Aggressive take-off from a light: 5-6000, and only use small throttle openings below 5000 (less than 1/3 throttle).  
* Aggressive take-off from a light: 5-6000, and only use small throttle openings below 5000 (less than 1/3 throttle).  
* Never cruise below 6000 rpm  
* Never cruise below 6000 rpm  
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Clutchless shifting can easily be done on a motorcycle: it's just a matter of matching the rpms. On upshifts it's just a matter of backing off the throttle for an instant as you bang the box into the next gear. On downshifts you have to rev the engine up a bit as you drop a gear. Of course, the clutch is there for a reason, and shifting without it will wear your tranny out more quickly. In short, the only place this technique really has a place is on the racetrack, where tiny fractions of a second can make the difference between first and second place.  
Clutchless shifting can easily be done on a motorcycle: it's just a matter of matching the rpms. On upshifts it's just a matter of backing off the throttle for an instant as you bang the box into the next gear. On downshifts you have to rev the engine up a bit as you drop a gear. Of course, the clutch is there for a reason, and shifting without it will wear your tranny out more quickly. In short, the only place this technique really has a place is on the racetrack, where tiny fractions of a second can make the difference between first and second place.  


Some advice? Learn how to do it and then don't, unless some large person named "Mad Dog Al" is chasing you with a chainsaw.  
Some advice? [[Can I ride my bike home if the clutch cable breaks?|Learn how]] to do it and then don't, unless some large person named "Mad Dog Al" is chasing you with a chainsaw.


====Shifting when stopped====
====Shifting when stopped====
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When you let the clutch out, the pressure on the gearchange lever will cause the transmission to slip into gear if it wasn't already. If you get into this habit, you'll never hit a false neutral again.
When you let the clutch out, the pressure on the gearchange lever will cause the transmission to slip into gear if it wasn't already. If you get into this habit, you'll never hit a false neutral again.
Make sure to avoid the common fault of failing to allow the shift lever to fall all the way to the bottom between up-shifts. This will cause the bike to miss shifts.