Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions

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*Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each. '''Hint''': The exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; there are four of them. The intake valves are closest to the airbox; there four of these, too.

*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the brackets. The cover is no harder to get out with the brackets left in place than with the brackets removed. Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done. ~~No drilling required~~.

*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the brackets. The cover is no harder to get out with the brackets left in place than with the brackets removed. Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. Drilling is the safer option.

*You don't need the special tools, but you might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.

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 *Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each. '''Hint''': The exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; there are four of them. The intake valves are closest to the airbox; there four of these, too.
-*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the brackets. The cover is no harder to get out with the brackets left in place than with the brackets removed. Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done. No drilling required.
+*You have to unbolt and remove the left-hand coil, but it isn't necessary to drill the spot weld to remove the brackets. The cover is no harder to get out with the brackets left in place than with the brackets removed. Removing the bracket will make a tiny bit more room for your hands to get in and the valve cover to come out. Should you decide to remove it, one admin insists that a long screwdriver and a bit of rocking back and forth gets it done, while another says he almost pulled the bike over on top of him doing that. Drilling is the safer option.
 *You don't need the special tools, but you might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.