Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions

Line 109:

That's the only adjustment that can be made up top. Make sure that the diaphragm doesn't get damaged or pinched when you reassemble. The carbs won't work right, and they are expensive to replace! Test all the slides by just pushing them up with a finger and comparing them to banks you haven't touched yet, or just make sure they all react the same.

That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory, which is usually called an anti-tamper plug or "EPA plug". You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out. It's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit. If the screw is on the engine side of the carb it meters the fuel; if it's on the airbox side it meters the air. Again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues.~~.. a~~ good base setting is [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|2.5 turns out]] from fully seated:

That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory, which is usually called an anti-tamper plug or "EPA plug". You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out. It's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit. If the screw is on the engine side of the carb it meters the fuel; if it's on the airbox side it meters the air. Again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues. A good base setting is [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|2.5 turns out]] from fully seated:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_19.JPG|150px]]

And that's it for what can be done on the bench. When you [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|install the carbs again]], do a [[How do I synchronize the carburetors?|carb ~~synch~~]].

And that's it for what can be done on the bench. When you [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|install the carbs again]], do a [[How do I synchronize the carburetors?|carb sync]].

Here is the full [http://gallery.darladog.com/v/motorcycles/gsf400/carbcleaning/ gallery of photos] used in this write-up.

@@ Line 109: / Line 109: @@
 That's the only adjustment that can be made up top. Make sure that the diaphragm doesn't get damaged or pinched when you reassemble. The carbs won't work right, and they are expensive to replace! Test all the slides by just pushing them up with a finger and comparing them to banks you haven't touched yet, or just make sure they all react the same.
-That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory, which is usually called an anti-tamper plug or "EPA plug". You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out. It's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit. If the screw is on the engine side of the carb it meters the fuel; if it's on the airbox side it meters the air. Again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues... a good base setting is [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|2.5 turns out]] from fully seated:
+That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory, which is usually called an anti-tamper plug or "EPA plug". You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out. It's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit. If the screw is on the engine side of the carb it meters the fuel; if it's on the airbox side it meters the air. Again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues. A good base setting is [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|2.5 turns out]] from fully seated:
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_19.JPG|150px]]
-And that's it for what can be done on the bench. When you [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|install the carbs again]], do a [[How do I synchronize the carburetors?|carb synch]].
+And that's it for what can be done on the bench. When you [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|install the carbs again]], do a [[How do I synchronize the carburetors?|carb sync]].
 Here is the full [http://gallery.darladog.com/v/motorcycles/gsf400/carbcleaning/ gallery of photos] used in this write-up.