Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]

Questions are '''<<<in bold like this>>>'''

Then the part I don't understand is under the question. A line after it ends the questionable part and continues the article.

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====How to tell if your bearings need looking at====

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If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. As long as you're going that far, you should probably plan on replacing them. If you just want to lube the bearings, you can also follow these steps, leaving out the bashing-on-stuff parts.

If your races are ~~looking like this~~, or the ~~ball~~ bearings are ~~falling apart~~, ~~then it definitely is time for a new set of~~ bearings.

If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, see [[Lubing the bearings article]].

~~[[image~~:~~IMG_5698.jpg|150px]]~~

If you want to replace the bearings with OEM parts, you need to get everything shown in these diagrams:

'''^^^'''bearing race didn't look that bad, I probably would have re-used it if it was smooth inside (hard to tell whether the marks are dents or just discoloration) If the steering wasn't notchy but looked like that, I would re-use.

'''<<<Does this look right?>>>'''

[[image:]]

You can also get sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These [[A brief guide to bearings|sealed bearings]] will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.

You ~~could go the OEM way, but for less money you~~ can ~~have a set of~~ sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These [[A brief guide to bearings|sealed bearings]] will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is ~~irrelevant for most folks~~.

The part number for the [http://207.245.78.117/allballs/index.php/22-1014.html All Balls kit] is #22-1014, and this kit contains the following:

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*Top (Smaller): Bearing #99-3504 Seal #33-1005-1

This kit contains a seal for the top (smaller) bearing, which is not an OEM part and was not put on bikes from the factory. The seal fits fine, however, and helps keep dust and grime out, and lubrication in.

This kit contains a seal for the top (smaller) bearing, which is not an OEM part and was not put on bikes from the factory. The seal fits fine, however, and helps keep dust and grime out and lubrication in.

====Stuff that has to be removed====

You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike~~. Removing the tank is optional, but a really good idea~~. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|~~See here~~]] ~~for reference~~. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.

You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.

These things need to be removed. If you're not sure how to do this, search through the FAQ for the info:

* Front wheel ~~and brake~~ caliper~~; brake~~ hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.

* Front wheel

* Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.

* Both handlebars

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
+Questions are '''<<<in bold like this>>>'''
+Then the part I don't understand is under the question. A line after it ends the questionable part and continues the article.
+--------------------------------------------------------------
 ====How to tell if your bearings need looking at====
@@ Line 8: / Line 16: @@
 If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. As long as you're going that far, you should probably plan on replacing them. If you just want to lube the bearings, you can also follow these steps, leaving out the bashing-on-stuff parts.
-If your races are looking like this, or the ball bearings are falling apart, then it definitely is time for a new set of bearings.
+If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, see [[Lubing the bearings article]].
-[[image:IMG_5698.jpg|150px]]
+If you want to replace the bearings with OEM parts, you need to get everything shown in these diagrams:
-'''^^^'''bearing race didn't look that bad, I probably would have re-used it if it was smooth inside (hard to tell whether the marks are dents or just discoloration) If the steering wasn't notchy but looked like that, I would re-use.
+'''<<<Does this look right?>>>'''
+[[image:]]
+[[image:]]
+You can also get sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These [[A brief guide to bearings|sealed bearings]] will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.
-You could go the OEM way, but for less money you can have a set of sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These [[A brief guide to bearings|sealed bearings]] will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is irrelevant for most folks.
 The part number for the [http://207.245.78.117/allballs/index.php/22-1014.html All Balls kit] is #22-1014, and this kit contains the following:
@@ Line 25: / Line 34: @@
 *Top (Smaller): Bearing #99-3504  Seal #33-1005-1
-This kit contains a seal for the top (smaller) bearing, which is not an OEM part and was not put on bikes from the factory. The seal fits fine, however, and helps keep dust and grime out, and lubrication in.
+This kit contains a seal for the top (smaller) bearing, which is not an OEM part and was not put on bikes from the factory. The seal fits fine, however, and helps keep dust and grime out and lubrication in.
 ====Stuff that has to be removed====
-You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. Removing the tank is optional, but a really good idea. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|See here]] for reference. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.
+You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.
 These things need to be removed. If you're not sure how to do this, search through the FAQ for the info:
-* Front wheel and brake caliper; brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.
+* Front wheel
+* Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.
 * Both handlebars