Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

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====How to tell if your bearings need looking at====
====How to tell if your bearings need looking at====


Get the front wheel of the bike [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|off the ground]]. Turn the bars from side to side with no weight on them (wheel off the ground). Feel for any slight notches. On the road it takes a HUGE problem to feel it, but the races shown in the photo below were only slightly noticeable when the front was lifted. Turning from side to side there should be absolutely no hesitation. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation while turning, they need greasing at the very least, or rotating.
It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding. So, you need to get the front wheel [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|off the ground]]. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground. Feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least).  


==Disassembly for replacement==
==Disassembly for replacement==


If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. As long as you're going that far, you should probably plan on replacing them. If you just want to lube the bearings, you can also follow these steps, leaving out the bashing-on-stuff parts.
If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. If they feel pretty bad, you might want to order parts before you do this. If you just want to lube the bearings, the directions are basically the same, except for removing & replacing the parts.  


If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, see [[Lubing the bearings article]].  
If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, see [[Lubing the bearings article]].  
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Part numbers:
Part numbers:


* To be added later
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* To be added later
 


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The part number for the [http://207.245.78.117/allballs/index.php/22-1014.html All Balls kit] is #22-1014, and this kit contains the following:  
The part number for the [http://207.245.78.117/allballs/index.php/22-1014.html All Balls kit] is 22-1014, and this kit contains the following:  


*Bottom (Larger): Bearing #99-3503 Seal #33-1006  
*Bottom (Larger): Bearing #99-3503 Seal #33-1006  
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* Front wheel
* Front wheel


* Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.
* Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose.  
 
 
'''<<<Can you leave everything connected to the bars?>>>'''


* Both handlebars
* Both handlebars: Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.


* Forks: Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface unnecessarily.  
 
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* Forks: Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface.  


* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.   
* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.   
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'''<<<Which one? Preferred? More info? Don't know if there are different sizes of spanners.>>>'''
'''<<<Which method? Preferred? More info? Don't know if there are different sizes of spanners.>>>''' This is the part that kept me from working on this article for a couple months.


*Use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload.   
*Use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload.   
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Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover and the upper bearing race and all the ball bearings. Keep all of this in case they can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them.  
Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover, the upper bearing race, and all the ball bearings. Keep it all, in case it can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them.  


Using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a simple punch, knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Don't worry about damaging the races; they're going to be replaced. Clean the places that hold the races on the frame with a rag, getting out all the dirt and grime.  
Using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a simple punch, knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Don't worry about damaging the races; they're going to be replaced. Clean the places that hold the races on the frame with a rag, getting out all the dirt and grime.  
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'''>>>Need to know a good method of pounding in the new race, as this is quite vague.>>>'''
Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503 - the race is the part without the pins) and use a 'race pounder' or a hammer and then a punch after.
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Be very careful to hit only the outside of the race. If you so much as lightly tap the punch on the inside of the race, it could ruin it. Install it in the bottom section of the frame.


'''>>>Need to know a good method of pounding in the new race, as this is quite vague.>>>'''


Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503 - the race is the part without the pins) and use a 'race pounder' or a hammer and then a punch after.


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'''<<<Then what?>>>'''


Tap it in at first with a hammer. Get a good view of it to make sure it's flat.




Be very careful to hit only the outside of the race. This one is being used. If you so much as lightly tap the punch on the inside of the race, it could ruin it. Install it in the bottom section of the frame. Tap it in at first with a hammer. Get a good view of it to make sure it's flat.
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