Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions
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====How to tell if your bearings need looking at==== | ====How to tell if your bearings need looking at==== | ||
It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding | It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding, so get the front wheel [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|off the ground]]. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground and feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least). | ||
==Disassembly | ==Disassembly== | ||
If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. If they feel pretty bad, you might want to order parts before you do this. If you just want to lube the bearings, the directions are basically the same, except for removing & replacing the | If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. If they feel pretty bad, you might want to order parts before you do this. If you just want to lube the bearings, the directions are basically the same, except for removing & replacing the bearings and races. | ||
If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, | If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, lube them up and put everything back together. | ||
If you want to replace the bearings with OEM parts, you need to get everything shown in these diagrams: | If you want to replace the bearings with OEM parts, you need to get everything shown in these diagrams: | ||
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* | * | ||
You can also get tapered roller bearings from All Balls. You can get them directly, or check with a local shop that sells from the Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky catalogs. These will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice. | You can also get tapered roller bearings from All Balls. You can get them directly, or check with a local shop that sells from the Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky catalogs. These will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice. | ||
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====Stuff that has to be removed==== | ====Stuff that has to be removed==== | ||
'''<<<Can you change the position of the bars on the 250 in any way?>>>''' | |||
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You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere. | You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere. | ||
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These things need to be removed. If you're not sure how to do this, search through the FAQ for the info: | These things need to be removed. If you're not sure how to do this, search through the FAQ for the info: | ||
* Front wheel | * [[Reinstalling the front wheel|Front wheel]] | ||
* Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. | * Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose. | ||
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Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks. | Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks. | ||
:[[image:shock spanner.jpg|150px]][[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif|115px]] | :[[image:shock spanner.jpg|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif|115px]] | ||
The alternative, and definitely not the right tool for the job, is to get a punch with a 90 | The alternative, and definitely not the right tool for the job, is to get a punch with a 90 degree nose or a cheap-as-possible #3 flat-tip screwdriver and carefully hammer the nut until it's loose. It's much harder to get the adjustment right at the end with this method, and it also provides more opportunities to slip and damage something (like your hand). | ||
==Removing the old bearings== | |||
Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover, the upper bearing race, and all the ball bearings. Keep it all, in case it can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them. | Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover, the upper bearing race, and all the ball bearings. Keep it all, in case it can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Be prepared for them to fall out of their own accord. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them. | ||
You now need to knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Use a piece of steel rod to push out the lower race. Just set it against the race in a different place for each whack of the hammer. | You now need to knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Use a piece of steel rod to push out the lower race. Just set it against the race in a different place for each whack of the hammer. | ||
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'''<<<How to get out the race that's at the top of the steering head?>>>''' | '''<<<How to get out the race that's at the top of the steering head?>>>''' I'd imagine it's "Beat on it 'til it falls out." | ||
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Other ways you might think about for this include using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a punch. | Other ways you might think about for this include using a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Replacing_the_wheel_bearings#Removal_of_old_bearings bearing puller], a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a punch. | ||
Removing the race that's stuck on the lower triple tree can be a bit harder. The steering tube and lower triple are all one piece. Clamp the tube that goes between the two triples (henceforth know as the 'steering tube') in a vice. Vice scuffs on that tube will not affect anything, as it doesn't come into contact with anything except at the ends through the bearings. There's a large enough gap between the outside of that tube and the inside of the steering head so burrs on the tube from the vice will not matter. So, turn the part upside down so it looks like a 'T', with the lower triple on top, then clamp the vertical portion of the 'T' in the vice. | Removing the race that's stuck on the lower triple tree can be a bit harder. The steering tube and lower triple are all one piece. Clamp the tube that goes between the two triples (henceforth know as the 'steering tube') in a vice. Vice scuffs on that tube will not affect anything, as it doesn't come into contact with anything except at the ends through the bearings. There's a large enough gap between the outside of that tube and the inside of the steering head so burrs on the tube from the vice will not matter. So, turn the part upside down so it looks like a 'T', with the lower triple on top, then clamp the vertical portion of the 'T' in the vice. | ||
'''<<<So, do you just hammer with the metal rod through the bottom of the triple, then slide the race off down the steering tube?>>>''' | |||
Use the same punch method as you did above. Don't worry about damaging the seal or washer, as they will also be replaced. Clean everything that will be reused. | Use the same punch method as you did above. Don't worry about damaging the seal or washer, as they will also be replaced. Clean everything that will be reused. | ||
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==Installing the new bearings== | |||
Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503 - the race is the part without the pins) and install it on the lower part of the steering head on the frame. | Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503 - the race is the part without the pins) and install it on the lower part of the steering head on the frame. | ||
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'''<<<And pvc or metal pipe?>>>''' | '''<<<And pvc or metal pipe?>>>''' | ||
Get a piece of pipe a teensy bit smaller on the outside diameter than the race but large enough so it cannot slip into the bearing surface of the race. You want to apply pressure all around the edge of the race | Get a piece of pipe that's a teensy bit smaller on the outside diameter than the race, but large enough so it cannot slip into the bearing surface of the race. You want to apply pressure all around the edge of the race without touching the inside of it. | ||
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^ ^ (hammer thataway) ^ ^ (up) | ^ ^ (hammer thataway) ^ ^ (up) | ||
Be very careful to hit only the outside of the race. | Be very careful to hit only the outside of the race. Even just a light tap on the inside of the race could ruin it. | ||
Install the top race (#99-3504) in the steering head in the same way. This illustration is for the top race in the steering stem: | Install the top race (#99-3504) in the steering head in the same way. This illustration is for the top race in the steering stem: | ||
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/ \ bearing | / \ bearing | ||