EX250F key blanks: Difference between revisions

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==Ilco X103==

The least expensive, and most common, key choice for the EX250F ~~is the Ilco X103~~. This is also marked as KA14 and is what you find when you look up the bike model in the Ilco book. Use this if at all possible.

The least expensive and most common key choice for the EX250F. This is also marked as KA14 and is what you find when you look up the bike model in the Ilco book. Use this if at all possible.

The Ilco USA X103/KA14 is slightly shorter than the OEM key and is all-metal, with a head profile significantly different in shape. The length reduction is in the head end of the key. The portion of the key shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder measures the same as the OEM blank~~. Cost on these varies quite a bit, depending on how friendly the locksmith is. Online quantity purchase price is typically around a buck or less~~.

The Ilco USA X103/KA14 is slightly shorter than the OEM key and is all-metal, with a head profile significantly different in shape. The length reduction is in the head end of the key. The portion of the key shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder measures the same as the OEM blank.

'''Note''': There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (~~also marked~~ ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not ~~even~~ remotely related to any Ninja 250 key.

'''Note''': There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (aka ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not remotely related to any Ninja 250 key.

[[image:key blanks-1.jpg|150px]]

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==Silca KW12BP==

The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key. It is 3mm longer at the top but is functionally identical. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online. Even then it will be hard to find. And it ~~costs~~ about twice as much.

The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key. It is 3mm longer at the top but is functionally identical. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online. Even then it will be hard to find. And it will cost about twice as much. Try [http://mysecuritypro.com/KawasakiKW12BPMotorcycleKeyBlanks.aspx My Security Pro].

==Key blanks to avoid==

One Ilco blank that some people have used is the X266, also marked KA16. This ~~blank~~ is not listed for the Ninja 250 but rather the Concours. This blank is also all-metal, but in profile it is identical to the OEM key. The problem with ~~this key~~ is that there is a small ridge on each edge that prevents the key from being fully inserted into the Ninja 250 lock cylinders. The amount of interference is fairly small (less than a millimeter) but that is enough to cause problems. Without a minor modification to the key, an X266/KA16 blank cut to fit the ignition/seat/helmet locks will not work in the fuel filler cap.

One Ilco blank that some people have used is the X266, also marked KA16. This one is not listed for the Ninja 250 but rather the Concours. This blank is also all-metal, but in profile it is identical to the OEM key. The problem with the X266 is that there is a small ridge on each edge that prevents the key from being fully inserted into the Ninja 250 lock cylinders. The amount of interference is fairly small (less than a millimeter) but that is enough to cause problems. Without a minor modification to the key, an X266/KA16 blank cut to fit the ignition/seat/helmet locks will not work in the fuel filler cap.

Here's a closeup of the ridge in question:

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==Key dimensions==

The critical dimensions of ~~all~~ the aftermarket blanks are ~~virtually~~ identical to the OEM Kawasaki blank, with the exception of the ridges on the X266/KA16. Aside from the thickness and width dimensions of the portion of the shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder, the length from the tip of the key to the shoulder step, 20mm, is most important. The reason for this is that the ignition, helmet, and seat lock cylinders rely on the shoulder stop to determine insertion depth, whereas the gas cap has an internal stop such that only the end five of the six tumbler positions are used. If that 20mm length were to change, then a key cut for the other three lock cylinders would not work for the gas cap, and vice versa.

The critical dimensions of the aftermarket blanks are identical to the OEM Kawasaki blank, with the exception of the ridges on the X266/KA16. Aside from the thickness and width dimensions of the portion of the shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder, the length from the tip of the key to the shoulder step, 20mm, is most important. The reason for this is that the ignition, helmet, and seat lock cylinders rely on the shoulder stop to determine insertion depth, whereas the gas cap has an internal stop such that only the end five of the six tumbler positions are used. If that 20mm length were to change, then a key cut for the other three lock cylinders would not work for the gas cap, and vice versa.

~~So, find yourself an Ilco X103 or a Silca KW12BP, get it cut by a professional locksmith, and you'll be happily locking and unlocking your bike for years to come~~.

@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 ==Ilco X103==
-The least expensive, and most common, key choice for the EX250F is the Ilco X103. This is also marked as KA14 and is what you find when you look up the bike model in the Ilco book. Use this if at all possible.
+The least expensive and most common key choice for the EX250F. This is also marked as KA14 and is what you find when you look up the bike model in the Ilco book. Use this if at all possible.
-The Ilco USA X103/KA14 is slightly shorter than the OEM key and is all-metal, with a head profile significantly different in shape. The length reduction is in the head end of the key. The portion of the key shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder measures the same as the OEM blank. Cost on these varies quite a bit, depending on how friendly the locksmith is. Online quantity purchase price is typically around a buck or less.
+The Ilco USA X103/KA14 is slightly shorter than the OEM key and is all-metal, with a head profile significantly different in shape. The length reduction is in the head end of the key. The portion of the key shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder measures the same as the OEM blank.
-'''Note''': There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (also marked ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not even remotely related to any Ninja 250 key.
+'''Note''': There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (aka ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not remotely related to any Ninja 250 key.
 [[image:key blanks-1.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 21: / Line 21: @@
 ==Silca KW12BP==
-The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key. It is 3mm longer at the top but is functionally identical. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online. Even then it will be hard to find. And it costs about twice as much.
+The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key. It is 3mm longer at the top but is functionally identical. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online. Even then it will be hard to find. And it will cost about twice as much. Try [http://mysecuritypro.com/KawasakiKW12BPMotorcycleKeyBlanks.aspx My Security Pro].
 ==Key blanks to avoid==
-One Ilco blank that some people have used is the X266, also marked KA16. This blank is not listed for the Ninja 250 but rather the Concours. This blank is also all-metal, but in profile it is identical to the OEM key. The problem with this key is that there is a small ridge on each edge that prevents the key from being fully inserted into the Ninja 250 lock cylinders. The amount of interference is fairly small (less than a millimeter) but that is enough to cause problems. Without a minor modification to the key, an X266/KA16 blank cut to fit the ignition/seat/helmet locks will not work in the fuel filler cap.
+One Ilco blank that some people have used is the X266, also marked KA16. This one is not listed for the Ninja 250 but rather the Concours. This blank is also all-metal, but in profile it is identical to the OEM key. The problem with the X266 is that there is a small ridge on each edge that prevents the key from being fully inserted into the Ninja 250 lock cylinders. The amount of interference is fairly small (less than a millimeter) but that is enough to cause problems. Without a minor modification to the key, an X266/KA16 blank cut to fit the ignition/seat/helmet locks will not work in the fuel filler cap.
 Here's a closeup of the ridge in question:
@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 ==Key dimensions==
-The critical dimensions of all the aftermarket blanks are virtually identical to the OEM Kawasaki blank, with the exception of the ridges on the X266/KA16. Aside from the thickness and width dimensions of the portion of the shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder, the length from the tip of the key to the shoulder step, 20mm, is most important. The reason for this is that the ignition, helmet, and seat lock cylinders rely on the shoulder stop to determine insertion depth, whereas the gas cap has an internal stop such that only the end five of the six tumbler positions are used. If that 20mm length were to change, then a key cut for the other three lock cylinders would not work for the gas cap, and vice versa.
+The critical dimensions of the aftermarket blanks are identical to the OEM Kawasaki blank, with the exception of the ridges on the X266/KA16. Aside from the thickness and width dimensions of the portion of the shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder, the length from the tip of the key to the shoulder step, 20mm, is most important. The reason for this is that the ignition, helmet, and seat lock cylinders rely on the shoulder stop to determine insertion depth, whereas the gas cap has an internal stop such that only the end five of the six tumbler positions are used. If that 20mm length were to change, then a key cut for the other three lock cylinders would not work for the gas cap, and vice versa.
-So, find yourself an Ilco X103 or a Silca KW12BP, get it cut by a professional locksmith, and you'll be happily locking and unlocking your bike for years to come.