Oil Change Procedure: Difference between revisions

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[[Image:oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]

'''A common mistake''' when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan, only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.

'''Note on the O-rings:''' Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in diagram above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.

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It's not completely necessary to pull the screen, but you'd be surprised how many big chunks of stuff are in there. On Duke's Rally bike there was some trash in the engine before it was rebuilt. So, to be sure he got it all out, the screen was checked at every oil change after the rebuild. There was less trash in it with each oil change.. If it hadn't been cleaned, the screen would probably be 60-80% clogged. At the 20k oil change there were only a couple small pieces in the screen, so it probably won't need to be checked again for a while.

These pictures show a bike that had 8800 miles on it. The goop is most likely gasket sealant from when the two halves of the engine case were assembled. The excess has to go somewhere. The stuff that goes to the inside of the engine sometimes falls off into the oil.

[[Image:538557.jpg|150px]]

In a new motor there will likely be less trash floating around, so it's recommended to check the screen at the second or third oil change, then every couple oil changes after that, until there's no new trash in the screen.

As far as actual cleaning of the screen goes, you can pretty much just wipe the screen clean with a rag. If you do need to spray it, WD-40 works fine. There are no gaskets to worry about. Just remove, clean, and replace.

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 [[Image:oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]
+'''A common mistake''' when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan, only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.
 '''Note on the O-rings:''' Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in diagram above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.
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 It's not completely necessary to pull the screen, but you'd be surprised how many big chunks of stuff are in there. On Duke's Rally bike there was some trash in the engine before it was rebuilt. So, to be sure he got it all out, the screen was checked at every oil change after the rebuild. There was less trash in it with each oil change.. If it hadn't been cleaned, the screen would probably be 60-80% clogged. At the 20k oil change there were only a couple small pieces in the screen, so it probably won't need to be checked again for a while.
+These pictures show a bike that had 8800 miles on it. The goop is most likely gasket sealant from when the two halves of the engine case were assembled. The excess has to go somewhere. The stuff that goes to the inside of the engine sometimes falls off into the oil.
+[[Image:538557.jpg|150px]]
 In a new motor there will likely be less trash floating around, so it's recommended to check the screen at the second or third oil change, then every couple oil changes after that, until there's no new trash in the screen.
 As far as actual cleaning of the screen goes, you can pretty much just wipe the screen clean with a rag. If you do need to spray it, WD-40 works fine. There are no gaskets to worry about. Just remove, clean, and replace.