Mounting & balancing tires yourself: Difference between revisions

Line 7:

'''Note:''' See links to other articles at the bottom of the page.

Doing the ~~tire~~ yourself isn't bad at all. It does take a bit of physical effort and some time, and a few special tools:

Doing the tires yourself isn't bad at all. It does take a bit of physical effort and some time, and a few special tools:

*3 tire irons

Line 45:

As you can see, with the wheel on the ground, you use a long 2x4 to put leverage on a shorter piece, thus forcing the bead of the tire off the seat on the rim.

[[Image:mount balance 4.JPG|150px]] [[Image:5|150px]]~~07764.jpg~~

[[Image:mount balance 4.JPG|150px]] [[Image:507764.jpg|150px]]

You're looking to see this:

Line 55:

Once you get the tire started off the rim, you can usually just push it the rest of the way toward the rim center. Turn the rim over and repeat on the second side.

With the bead broken, it's time to start removing the tire from the rim. Use the sliced up plastic jug to protect the paint on your rim, and work one end of a tire iron between the rim and the tire.

With the bead broken, it's time to start removing the tire from the rim. Apply some tire lube to the beads. Use the sliced up plastic jug to protect the paint on your rim, and work one end of a tire iron between the rim and the tire.

[[Image:mount balance 6.JPG|150px]]

Line 83:

At this point, I like to clean up the rim, inside and out. Mine happened to have what seemed like some sort of glue on the inside. It took some strong solvents to get this stuff off. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the Flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak... and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning... they should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again.

The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Replacing it is simple: just cut off the old, use the core removal tool to screw onto the stem, and pull it through from the inside of the rim until it seats. ~~Shorter are better, angled~~ are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing replacements a lot sooner.''

The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Replacing it is simple: just cut off the old, use the core removal tool to screw onto the stem, and pull it through from the inside of the rim until it seats. Get the shortest one you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing replacements a lot sooner.''

I also like to check the static balance of just the rim, as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. I do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel, that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.

Line 99:

====Mounting the new tire====

When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. Though, if needed, you can use a rim protector and tire iron to help, as I needed here:

When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. Though, if needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as I needed here:

[[Image:mount balance 14.JPG|150px]]

Then push the top bead into the center of the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons... It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.

Then push the top bead into the center of the rim, put some lube on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons... It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.

There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works. Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim, work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.

Line 109:

[[Image:p8181947.jpg|150px]]

With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations), do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite), the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air. Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work.

With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations), do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite), the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.

You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings ~~moulded~~ into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated. Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. I usually go over what I normally run until I get it back on the bike. Always easier to let some out than to add some back.

Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV

One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual.

You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated. Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. I usually go over what I normally run until I get it back on the bike. Always easier to let some out than to add some back.

====Balancing====

Line 129:

Line 133:

[[Image:mount balance 17.JPG|150px]]

And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride.

And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride. I hope this helps some folks who are interested in saving the rather stiff prices charged for mounting tires. You can easily buy all the tools needed for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you.

====Reattaching the wheel====

Now reinstall the wheel (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [Torque Values|proper torque] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:

Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.

====Links====

[[Hints & Tips: Tire Changing|Hints & Tips:]] tire changing

An in-depth article from [http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html clarity.net].

This is a [http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/bead-breaker/motorcycle-tire-bead-breaker.htm DIY Bead Breaker.]

~~Here are 2 videos demonstrating the techniques.~~

====Video====

~~http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid~~=~~-7546109776315225781&q~~=~~tire+change~~

~~NOTE: This one is on a Tubed Tire, it's Slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like... heh.~~

~~http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid~~=~~-8635543758286799977&q~~=~~tire+change~~

One final thing I want to mention, in relation to tires, is the Tread Wear Indicator (T.W.I.) It's how you know that it's time to replace your tires, as running them till they're slick is a Bad idea. The indicators are always listed on the side of the tire, usually in a few different spots, with the letters TWI or a small triangle. Here, I have the letters TWI:

~~[[Image:mount balance 18.JPG|150px]]~~

~~Then, if you look across the tread, in the grooves, you'll find little blocks of rubber that stand up.~~

~~[[Image:mount balance 19.JPG|150px]]~~

~~When these become flush with the rest of the tread, it's time to put new tires~~ on ~~the bike (or car).~~

[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7546109776315225781&q=tire+change Tire changing on a budget]

~~Hope this helps some folks who are interested in saving the rather stiff prices charged for mounting tires~~. ~~You can Easily buy all the tools needed for less than~~ what ~~it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you~~.

[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change This one] is on a tubed tire. It's slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like... heh.

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 '''Note:''' See links to other articles at the bottom of the page.
-Doing the tire yourself isn't bad at all. It does take a bit of physical effort and some time, and a few special tools:
+Doing the tires yourself isn't bad at all. It does take a bit of physical effort and some time, and a few special tools:
 *3 tire irons
@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 As you can see, with the wheel on the ground, you use a long 2x4 to put leverage on a shorter piece, thus forcing the bead of the tire off the seat on the rim.
-[[Image:mount balance 4.JPG|150px]]  [[Image:5|150px]]07764.jpg
+[[Image:mount balance 4.JPG|150px]]  [[Image:507764.jpg|150px]]
 You're looking to see this:
@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 Once you get the tire started off the rim, you can usually just push it the rest of the way toward the rim center. Turn the rim over and repeat on the second side.
-With the bead broken, it's time to start removing the tire from the rim. Use the sliced up plastic jug to protect the paint on your rim, and work one end of a tire iron between the rim and the tire.
+With the bead broken, it's time to start removing the tire from the rim. Apply some tire lube to the beads. Use the sliced up plastic jug to protect the paint on your rim, and work one end of a tire iron between the rim and the tire.
 [[Image:mount balance 6.JPG|150px]]
@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 At this point, I like to clean up the rim, inside and out. Mine happened to have what seemed like some sort of glue on the inside. It took some strong solvents to get this stuff off. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the Flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak... and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning... they should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again.
-The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Replacing it is simple: just cut off the old, use the core removal tool to screw onto the stem, and pull it through from the inside of the rim until it seats. Shorter are better, angled are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing replacements a lot sooner.''
+The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Replacing it is simple: just cut off the old, use the core removal tool to screw onto the stem, and pull it through from the inside of the rim until it seats. Get the shortest one you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing replacements a lot sooner.''
 I also like to check the static balance of just the rim, as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. I do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel, that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.
@@ Line 99: / Line 99: @@
 ====Mounting the new tire====
-When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. Though, if needed, you can use a rim protector and tire iron to help, as I needed here:
+When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. Though, if needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as I needed here:
 [[Image:mount balance 14.JPG|150px]]
-Then push the top bead into the center of the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons... It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.
+Then push the top bead into the center of the rim, put some lube on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons... It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.
 There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works. Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim, work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.
@@ Line 109: / Line 109: @@
 [[Image:p8181947.jpg|150px]]
-With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations), do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite), the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.  Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work.
+With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations), do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite), the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.
-You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings moulded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated. Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. I usually go over what I normally run until I get it back on the bike. Always easier to let some out than to add some back.
+Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV
+One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual.
+You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated. Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. I usually go over what I normally run until I get it back on the bike. Always easier to let some out than to add some back.
 ====Balancing====
@@ Line 129: / Line 133: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 17.JPG|150px]]
-And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride.
+And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride. I hope this helps some folks who are interested in saving the rather stiff prices charged for mounting tires. You can easily buy all the tools needed for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you.
 ====Reattaching the wheel====
+Now reinstall the wheel (exact reverse of above). Be sure to use a new cotter pin. Be sure to reattach the brake and use the [Torque Values|proper torque] on everything. If the rear wheel gives you trouble, try this:
+Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.
+====Links====
+[[Hints & Tips: Tire Changing|Hints & Tips:]] tire changing
+An in-depth article from [http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html clarity.net].
+This is a [http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/bead-breaker/motorcycle-tire-bead-breaker.htm DIY Bead Breaker.]
-Here are 2 videos demonstrating the techniques.
+====Video====
-http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7546109776315225781&q=tire+change
-NOTE: This one is on a Tubed Tire, it's Slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like... heh.
-http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change
-One final thing I want to mention, in relation to tires, is the Tread Wear Indicator (T.W.I.) It's how you know that it's time to replace your tires, as running them till they're slick is a Bad idea. The indicators are always listed on the side of the tire, usually in a few different spots, with the letters TWI or a small triangle. Here, I have the letters TWI:
-[[Image:mount balance 18.JPG|150px]]
-Then, if you look across the tread, in the grooves, you'll find little blocks of rubber that stand up.
-[[Image:mount balance 19.JPG|150px]]
-When these become flush with the rest of the tread, it's time to put new tires on the bike (or car).
+[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7546109776315225781&q=tire+change  Tire changing on a budget]
-Hope this helps some folks who are interested in saving the rather stiff prices charged for mounting tires. You can Easily buy all the tools needed for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you.
+[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change This one] is on a tubed tire. It's slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like... heh.