Oil Change Procedure: Difference between revisions

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Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

~~Place~~ the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)

Wipe a small amount of new oil onto the gaskets on the inside of the filter which contact the bolt and onto the big o-ring, and then place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)

Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).

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[[Image:oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]

'''A common mistake''' when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan, only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.

'''A common mistake''' when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom, or to find it stuck to the bottom of the old filter. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.

'''Note on the O-rings:''' Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in diagram above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.

@@ Line 14: / Line 14: @@
 Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
-Place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)
+Wipe a small amount of new oil onto the gaskets on the inside of the filter which contact the bolt and onto the big o-ring, and then place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)
 Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).
@@ Line 22: / Line 22: @@
 [[Image:oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]
-'''A common mistake''' when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan, only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.
+'''A common mistake''' when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom, or to find it stuck to the bottom of the old filter. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.
 '''Note on the O-rings:''' Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in diagram above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.