Painting cheaply with Rust-Oleum: Difference between revisions
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Paint inside. Seriously. There's no overspray, or fumes, or smell. Doing it in the garage was well-intentioned, but unnecessary. It was a HOT week in July. I'll wet sand in the garage, but then the parts are going into an unused room for painting and drying. | Paint inside. Seriously. There's no overspray, or fumes, or smell. Doing it in the garage was well-intentioned, but unnecessary. It was a HOT week in July. I'll wet sand in the garage, but then the parts are going into an unused room for painting and drying. | ||
====Instructional video==== | |||
[http://www.ninja250.org/actionace actionace] put together three videos showing the Rust-Oleum process on his gas tank. To answer a few questions: | |||
*I didn't use a clear coat, and I'm not sure if there is one compatible with the paint. I've read about clear coats lifting the Rust-Oleum and making it bubble. In the past, I've also sprayed clear coats that 'hazed' up the shine I worked very hard to create. I just buffed & polished the tank, though I am ordering some [http://www.liquidglass.com/ Liquid Glass] polish, as I've read very good things about it forming a protective clear coating. | |||
*The painting technique will be the same for plastic fairings: Mix the paint so it's watery, rub down all the orange peel between every 2 coats, and for the final coat, make the paint a bit thicker so it isn't so easy to rub/buff through. I feel that last step is pretty important, since rubbing through the top coat will show a different, very noticeable, layer of paint (the layers don't blend together). | |||
You can toggle to either standard or higher quality video under the video player. | |||
[http://youtube.com/watch?v=UHGGc6DkL90 Day 1] | |||
[http://youtube.com/watch?v=Lx4OtfsVWp4 Day 2] | |||
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aM2fgwiekbY&fmt=18 Day 3] | |||