Mounting & balancing tires yourself: Difference between revisions
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*some 2x4's in different lengths | *some 2x4's in different lengths | ||
*a plastic milk jug (or similar) cut into pieces to protect the rim lip | *a plastic milk jug (or similar) cut into pieces to protect the rim lip | ||
*tire lube (DO NOT USE DISH SOAP) | *[[Tire Mounting Hints & Tips|tire lube]] (DO NOT USE DISH SOAP) | ||
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To remove the tire, you need to push the '' | To remove the tire, you need to push the ''opposite side'' (still on the top, just on the other side of the tire than the one you're currently working on) of the tire into the Drop Center of the rim. This is the narrow part of the rim in the middle, before it steps up to the bead. Doing this allows the tire to shift enough for the bead to slip off with the tire iron. If you leave the opposite side up on the bead seat part of the rim it will be much harder to remove the tire, and much easier to cause damage to your wheel. Once you have the first bit over, it's just a matter of repeating the process with the other irons. Make sure you don't try to take too big of a bite, as this is where you get into trouble wanting to use extra strength, and the rim will bend. | ||
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====Inspecting rims and new tires==== | ====Inspecting rims and new tires==== | ||
At this point, I like to clean up the rim | At this point, I like to clean up the rim inside and out. Mine happened to have what seemed like some sort of glue on the inside. It took some strong solvents to get this stuff off. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak... and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning... they should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again. | ||
The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Valve stems are removed by cutting them off with a utility knife | The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Valve stems are removed by cutting them off with a utility knife. The "tool" to install new ones is a couple bucks at auto parts places. It screws onto the threaded part of the stem and gives you something to grasp so you can pull it into place. You put the threaded part through the hole, attach the tool, and pull it into place. | ||
Here's an example of a valve tool from [http://www.aerostich.com/product.php?productid=16809&cat=538&page=1 Aerostich]. It both removes the core and screws onto the valve stem to pull it through the rim. | Here's an example of a valve tool from [http://www.aerostich.com/product.php?productid=16809&cat=538&page=1 Aerostich]. It both removes the core and screws onto the valve stem to pull it through the rim. | ||
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Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.'' | Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.'' | ||
I also like to check the static balance of just the rim, as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. I do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel | I also like to check the static balance of just the rim, as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. I do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go. | ||
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Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4 digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. Mine is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3~4 years old | Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4 digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. Mine is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3~4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!). You should also look for a round dot, about the size of a dime, on the tire. This is an indicator of the lightest spot on the tire from the manufacturer, though not all brands have this (my Avon did not)... You'll want to line this up with the heaviest spot on the rim that you noted earlier. | ||
====Mounting the new tire==== | ====Mounting the new tire==== | ||
When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. | When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as I needed here: | ||
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With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations) | With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations) do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite) the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air. | ||
Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV | Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV | ||
If you have a problem seating the bead, wet your hand with plain old water or tire lube and rub it (just a bit, you don't need to soak it) around the area not seating, and it should pop right out. | |||
One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual. | One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual. | ||
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I like, and use, stick ons myself. They're cheap, easy to come by and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. I like to tape mine on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking, electrical, scotch, whatever) and check again before affixing for good. | I like, and use, stick-ons myself. They're cheap, easy to come by and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. I like to tape mine on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking, electrical, scotch, whatever tape) and check again before affixing for good. | ||
Static balancing is good enough for professional roadracers, so it's certainly good enough for the average street rider. If you feel better having your wheels dynamically balanced by a machine, you can take it in to a shop and pay for that peace of mind. The primary advantage of the balancing machines seems to be that they're faster -- static balancing can take a while (5-20 minutes per tire) to do correctly. | Static balancing is good enough for professional roadracers, so it's certainly good enough for the average street rider. If you feel better having your wheels dynamically balanced by a machine, you can take it in to a shop and pay for that peace of mind. The primary advantage of the balancing machines seems to be that they're faster -- static balancing can take a while (5-20 minutes per tire) to do correctly. | ||