Installing an accessory fuse box: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]

This is currently not visible to the general public, so make as many notations as you'd like ~~(Ryan will have to copy and PM)~~. My comments or questions are in '''''bold italics'''''

This is currently not visible to the general public, so make as many notations as you'd like. My comments or questions are in '''''bold italics'''''

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====Defining terms====

You will see auxiliary power supply boxes labeled 'distribution blocks', 'auxiliary fuse boxes', and most likely several other things. The important thing is you want a box that will allow you to have a separate fuse for each accessory. That way, if one gets overloaded and the fuse blows, you won't lose everything else.

You will see auxiliary power supply boxes labeled 'distribution blocks', 'auxiliary fuse boxes', and most likely several other things. The important thing is you want a ''fuse box'', or ''panel'', that will allow you to have a separate fuse for each accessory. That way, if one gets overloaded and the fuse blows, you won't lose everything else.

====What kinds of boxes are there?====

There are a few different types of fuse ~~blocks~~/panels. Some ~~distribution blocks~~ treat each attachment point as a separate entity, requiring that power be sent directly from the battery to each connection point on the ~~block~~ (individual circuits) like the [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1]. In this case you can daisy chain (make very short connections) the power wires from one connection to the next, instead of running a wire from the battery for each. This article does not cover this type, as it's more difficult to do.

There are a few different types of fuse boxes/panels. Some treat each attachment point as a separate entity, requiring that power be sent directly from the battery to each connection point on the box (individual circuits) like the [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1]. In this case you can daisy chain (make very short connections) the power wires from one connection to the next, instead of running a wire from the battery for each. This article does not cover this type, as it's more difficult to do.

The [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/fb-4.html Eastern Beaver FB-4] also works this way, but it comes in a kit with everything wired for you. This is the easiest reasonably-priced box to use if you haven't done this sort of thing before.

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*A fuse box, naturally. See above.

*A 30 amp, four-pin relay. Numbers on the relay pins should be 30, 85, 86, and 87. Pay no attention to the #87a pin on the relay in the pictures. Bosch, Omron, and Hella are all good quality~~. See NAPA, Radio Shack, or a local electronics shop~~.

*A 30 amp, four-pin relay. Numbers on the relay pins should be 30, 85, 86, and 87. Pay no attention to the #87a pin on the relay in the pictures. Bosch, Omron, and Hella are all good quality.

:[[image:relay posts.jpg|80px]]

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====Finding a mounting location====

The first thing to tackle is finding a place for your new fuse box. This does not mean that you should mount it yet. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong.

The first thing to tackle is finding a place for your new fuse box. In order to know how long to make the wires you really have to figure out where to mount everything, but read the whole article first, OK? This does not mean that you should mount the box yet. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong.

You can mount the fuse box anywhere you want. Our man determined that the best place for him was on the left side, in between the coolant reservoir and the CDI.

The mounting location is on the wheel well. There is nothing on the other side to hit with a drill, and you can reach around to tighten the lock nuts on that side. It would be wise to use [http://nni.nn.northropgrumman.com/nylok.stm Nylok fasteners], or something similar, and [http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153 blue Loctite].

[[Image:buss-1.jpg|150px]]

The Buss provides four mounting holes. Only two were used, and the box was mounted diagonally.

[[image:buss-4.jpg|100px]]

Find a convenient point to mount the relay. Remember that 'finding a place to mount it' and 'mounting it there permanently' are two different things. So, don't affix it permanently yet.

You can put the relay just above the stock fuse box, where it's close to the horn circuit and the battery, and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting. The black plastic underneath is the airbox. '''Absolutely do not drill any holes in the airbox.''' If that position doesn't please you, underneath the seat or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.

[[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]]

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'''''>>Ryan - Personal preference here as I use my license plate light a lot more than my horn. If my LP light goes out I'm likely to be stopped by the police.'''''

***~~Hon~~ circuit it is, then. Sorry woot.

***Horn circuit it is, then. Sorry woot.

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====Installation of the Bussman box====

~~We'll finish with the wiring instructions first, but in order to know how long to make the wires you really have to figure out where to mount everything, so read the whole article first, OK?~~

========WIRING========

The Buss doesn't provide a 'ground' terminal on their unit. So, you can add a ground post (lower right corner) to compliment the power lead. '''''Do this by blah, blah, blah.... '''''

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[[image:buss-4.jpg|100px]]

~~You can mount the fuse box anywhere you want. Our man determined that the best place for him was on the left side, in between the coolant reservoir and the CDI.~~

'''''How were these holes drilled, and what in? It looks to me like something plastic, and about 8" deep. Or were they already there? (I think that's an original question from before Michael deleted all his PMs and I gave up on this article.)'''''

'''''>>Ryan - The mounting location is on the wheel well. There is nothing on the other side to hit with a drill and you can reach around to tighten the lock nuts on that side. It would be wise to use Nylocks or something of the like and blue Loctite.'''''

~~[[Image:buss-1.jpg|150px]]~~

~~The Buss provides four mounting holes. Only two were used, and the box was mounted diagonally.~~

~~[[image:buss-4.jpg|100px]]~~

Sealing the heat shrink connectors with a small torch, instead of the usual butane lighter.

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[[image:buss-5.jpg|120px]]

~~Find a convenient point and mount the relay~~

~~'''''Any suggestions as to where?'''''~~

'''''>>Ryan - In following Mike's install I put the relay just above the stock fuse box where it's close to the horn circuit, the battery and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting (the black plastic underneath is the airbox and you don't want to drill into that). If that position doesn't please you, underneath the seat is an easy location or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.'''''

~~[[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]]~~

Next comes the fun part: cutting into the wiring harness at the OEM fuse block. Consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|schematic]] to determine which connection to tap into. Don't use the unused 'accessories' fuse because those two connections are always hot. This also goes for the OEM accessory wires. The horn was the circuit tapped into, since it has minimal draw when not in use. The schematic showed the wire needed to tap was the lower harness brown/white wire. Double-check this by testing voltage outside the sheath, then pulling the fuse.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]
-This is currently not visible to the general public, so make as many notations as you'd like (Ryan will have to copy and PM). My comments or questions are in '''''bold italics'''''
+This is currently not visible to the general public, so make as many notations as you'd like. My comments or questions are in '''''bold italics'''''
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 ====Defining terms====
-You will see auxiliary power supply boxes labeled 'distribution blocks', 'auxiliary fuse boxes', and most likely several other things. The important thing is you want a box that will allow you to have a separate fuse for each accessory. That way, if one gets overloaded and the fuse blows, you won't lose everything else.
+You will see auxiliary power supply boxes labeled 'distribution blocks', 'auxiliary fuse boxes', and most likely several other things. The important thing is you want a ''fuse box'', or ''panel'', that will allow you to have a separate fuse for each accessory. That way, if one gets overloaded and the fuse blows, you won't lose everything else.
 ====What kinds of boxes are there?====
-There are a few different types of fuse blocks/panels. Some distribution blocks treat each attachment point as a separate entity, requiring that power be sent directly from the battery to each connection point on the block (individual circuits) like the [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1]. In this case you can daisy chain (make very short connections) the power wires from one connection to the next, instead of running a wire from the battery for each. This article does not cover this type, as it's more difficult to do.
+There are a few different types of fuse boxes/panels. Some treat each attachment point as a separate entity, requiring that power be sent directly from the battery to each connection point on the box (individual circuits) like the [http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml Centech AP1]. In this case you can daisy chain (make very short connections) the power wires from one connection to the next, instead of running a wire from the battery for each. This article does not cover this type, as it's more difficult to do.
 The [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/fb-4.html Eastern Beaver FB-4] also works this way, but it comes in a kit with everything wired for you. This is the easiest reasonably-priced box to use if you haven't done this sort of thing before.
@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 *A fuse box, naturally.  See above.
-*A 30 amp, four-pin relay. Numbers on the relay pins should be 30, 85, 86, and 87.  Pay no attention to the #87a pin on the relay in the pictures. Bosch, Omron, and Hella are all good quality. See NAPA, Radio Shack, or a local electronics shop.
+*A 30 amp, four-pin relay. Numbers on the relay pins should be 30, 85, 86, and 87.  Pay no attention to the #87a pin on the relay in the pictures. Bosch, Omron, and Hella are all good quality.
 :[[image:relay posts.jpg|80px]]
@@ Line 60: / Line 60: @@
 ====Finding a mounting location====
-The first thing to tackle is finding a place for your new fuse box. This does not mean that you should mount it yet. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong.
+The first thing to tackle is finding a place for your new fuse box. In order to know how long to make the wires you really have to figure out where to mount everything, but read the whole article first, OK? This does not mean that you should mount the box yet. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong.
+You can mount the fuse box anywhere you want. Our man determined that the best place for him was on the left side, in between the coolant reservoir and the CDI.
+The mounting location is on the wheel well.  There is nothing on the other side to hit with a drill, and you can reach around to tighten the lock nuts on that side. It would be wise to use [http://nni.nn.northropgrumman.com/nylok.stm Nylok fasteners], or something similar, and [http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153 blue Loctite].
+[[Image:buss-1.jpg|150px]]
+The Buss provides four mounting holes. Only two were used, and the box was mounted diagonally.
+[[image:buss-4.jpg|100px]]
+Find a convenient point to mount the relay. Remember that 'finding a place to mount it' and 'mounting it there permanently' are two different things. So, don't affix it permanently yet.
+You can put the relay just above the stock fuse box, where it's close to the horn circuit and the battery, and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting. The black plastic underneath is the airbox. '''Absolutely do not drill any holes in the airbox.''' If that position doesn't please you, underneath the seat or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.
+[[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 111: / Line 129: @@
 '''''>>Ryan - Personal preference here as I use my license plate light a lot more than my horn.  If my LP light goes out I'm likely to be stopped by the police.'''''
-***Hon circuit it is, then. Sorry woot.
+***Horn circuit it is, then. Sorry woot.
@@ Line 118: / Line 136: @@
 ====Installation of the Bussman box====
-We'll finish with the wiring instructions first, but in order to know how long to make the wires you really have to figure out where to mount everything, so read the whole article first, OK?
+========WIRING========
 The Buss doesn't provide a 'ground' terminal on their unit. So, you can add a ground post (lower right corner) to compliment the power lead. '''''Do this by blah, blah, blah.... '''''
@@ Line 136: / Line 154: @@
 [[image:buss-4.jpg|100px]]
-You can mount the fuse box anywhere you want. Our man determined that the best place for him was on the left side, in between the coolant reservoir and the CDI.
-'''''How were these holes drilled, and what in? It looks to me like something plastic, and about 8" deep. Or were they already there? (I think that's an original question from before Michael deleted all his PMs and I gave up on this article.)'''''
-'''''>>Ryan - The mounting location is on the wheel well.  There is nothing on the other side to hit with a drill and you can reach around to tighten the lock nuts on that side. It would be wise to use Nylocks or something of the like and blue Loctite.'''''
-[[Image:buss-1.jpg|150px]]
-The Buss provides four mounting holes. Only two were used, and the box was mounted diagonally.
-[[image:buss-4.jpg|100px]]
 Sealing the heat shrink connectors with a small torch, instead of the usual butane lighter.
@@ Line 152: / Line 162: @@
 [[image:buss-5.jpg|120px]]
-Find a convenient point and mount the relay
-'''''Any suggestions as to where?'''''
-'''''>>Ryan - In following Mike's install I put the relay just above the stock fuse box where it's close to the horn circuit, the battery and not taking up room on the other side.  A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting (the black plastic underneath is the airbox and you don't want to drill into that). If that position doesn't please you, underneath the seat is an easy location or anywhere on the bike will work.  Remember that the shorter the wires the better.'''''
-[[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]]
 Next comes the fun part: cutting into the wiring harness at the OEM fuse block. Consult the [[Wiring schematics & diagrams|schematic]] to determine which connection to tap into. Don't use the unused 'accessories' fuse because those two connections are always hot. This also goes for the OEM accessory wires. The horn was the circuit tapped into, since it has minimal draw when not in use. The schematic showed the wire needed to tap was the lower harness brown/white wire. Double-check this by testing voltage outside the sheath, then pulling the fuse.