Oil Change Procedure: Difference between revisions

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Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Do not use your torque wrench to loosen the drain bolt; torque wrenches are only for checking torque as you tighten a bolt.

Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02. If you look it up on the Kawasaki parts diagram you'll see that it's listed as "92065-097 GASKET, 12X22X2".

Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. When you reuse the crush washer, you run the risk of oil seeping out around the already compressed crush washer.Why skimp on a $0.33 part (92065-097 from www.ronayers.com)? Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02. If you look it up on the Kawasaki parts diagram you'll see that it's listed as "92065-097 GASKET, 12X22X2".

Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't ~~overtighten~~ it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't over tighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Wipe a small amount of new oil onto the gaskets on the inside of the filter which contact the bolt and onto the big o-ring, and then place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window.

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 Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Do not use your torque wrench to loosen the drain bolt; torque wrenches are only for checking torque as you tighten a bolt.
-Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02. If you look it up on the Kawasaki parts diagram you'll see that it's listed as "92065-097 GASKET, 12X22X2".
+Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. When you reuse the crush washer, you run the risk of oil seeping out around the already compressed crush washer.Why skimp on a $0.33 part (92065-097 from www.ronayers.com)? Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02. If you look it up on the Kawasaki parts diagram you'll see that it's listed as "92065-097 GASKET, 12X22X2".
-Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
+Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't over tighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
 Wipe a small amount of new oil onto the gaskets on the inside of the filter which contact the bolt and onto the big o-ring, and then place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window.