Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions

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Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or just leave it to sit overnight (2nd part of the directions).

*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called Berryman Chem Dip. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.

*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called [[http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.

:I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.

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[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_5.JPG|150px]]

A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is Essential for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more aggressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerine... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.

A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is '''''Essential''''' for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more aggressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerine... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_6.JPG|150px]]

One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that ~~Anytime~~ you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.

One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that any time you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.

Now, it's VERY important that you use a ~~Quality~~ screwdriver that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are Notorious for being stiff to remove... don't let something like this happen to you:

Now, it's VERY important that you use a quality screwdriver that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are Notorious for being stiff to remove... don't let something like this happen to you:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_7.JPG|150px]]

A note on screwdrivers: Motorcyclist magazine, in its May, 2007 edition, had a tech tip for Japanese carburetor screws. Take a close look at the photo above while you read this. This is quoted directly from the magazine, and no one from the board has tried these products, but we do consider this a reliable source:

A note on screwdrivers: Motorcyclist magazine, in its May 2007 edition, had a tech tip for Japanese carburetor screws. Take a close look at the photo above while you read this. This is quoted directly from the magazine, and no one from the board has tried these products, but we do consider this a reliable source:

*It is quite often difficult to get the Phillips screws out of the carburetor float bowl. Those and a lot of other screws on Japanese products...are specifically Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260. Note the dot in one corner of the cross formed by the slots... The Japanese-style Phillips screwdrivers are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun]... Using the normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.

Line 87:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_15.JPG|150px]]

You also want to take the compressed cleaner, ~~and with~~ the straw, squirt fluid into each and every hole. You should have cleaner going into or coming out of each and every hole ~ though not at the same time.. ~ and in the same volume as the other carb bodies. And it should be coming out Clear (this one started greenish).

You also want to take the compressed cleaner and, using the straw, squirt fluid into each and every hole. You should have cleaner going into or coming out of each and every hole ~ though not at the same time.. ~ and in the same volume as the other carb bodies. And it should be coming out Clear (this one started greenish).

When it comes time to reassemble, the jets just screw back in, but you need to set the float height. Each set of carbs has a different recommended height (listed in the service manual for the given bike). If the floats hang too low, your bike can (and most likely will) run lean, and if they sit too high, you'll likely be fighting a rich running bike. The picture shows a special tool for measuring float height, but a 6" ruler, or even a basic set of calipers, can be used to measure the height. To measure, you want the floats to Just be touching the fuel needle (which has a spring on it, you don't want to compress that) ~ most carbs can just be set upside down and the spring will hold the floats where they need to be ~ some carbs you'll need to tilt at an angle while doing the measuring. To adjust up or down, you just bend the small metal tang that rests on the fuel needle:

Line 101:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_18.JPG|150px]]

That's the only adjustment that can be made up top. Make sure ~~that when you reassemble,~~ that the diaphragm doesn't get damaged or pinched ~ the carbs won't work right and they are ~~Expensive~~ to replace! Test all the slides by just pushing them up with a finger and comparing them to banks you haven't touched yet, or just make sure they all react the same.

That's the only adjustment that can be made up top. Make sure that the diaphragm doesn't get damaged or pinched when you reassemble ~ the carbs won't work right and they are expensive to replace! Test all the slides by just pushing them up with a finger and comparing them to banks you haven't touched yet, or just make sure they all react the same.

That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment Inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory (anti-tamper plug is what it's usually called, or "EPA plug"). You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out ~ it's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit (if the screw is on the ~~Engine~~ side of the carb, it meters the fuel ~ if it's on the airbox side, it meters the air)... ~~again~~, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues... a good ~~Base~~ setting is 2.5 turns out from fully seated:

That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment Inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory (anti-tamper plug is what it's usually called, or "EPA plug"). You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out ~ it's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit (if the screw is on the engine side of the carb, it meters the fuel ~ if it's on the airbox side, it meters the air)... Again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues... a good base setting is 2.5 turns out from fully seated:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_19.JPG|150px]]

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or just leave it to sit overnight (2nd part of the directions).
-*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called Berryman Chem Dip. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.
+*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called [[http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.
 :I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.
@@ Line 31: / Line 31: @@
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_5.JPG|150px]]
-A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is Essential for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more aggressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerine... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.
+A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is '''''Essential''''' for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more aggressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerine... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_6.JPG|150px]]
-One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that Anytime you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.
+One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that any time you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.
-Now, it's VERY important that you use a Quality screwdriver that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are Notorious for being stiff to remove... don't let something like this happen to you:
+Now, it's VERY important that you use a quality screwdriver that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are Notorious for being stiff to remove... don't let something like this happen to you:
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_7.JPG|150px]]
-A note on screwdrivers: Motorcyclist magazine, in its May, 2007 edition, had a tech tip for Japanese carburetor screws. Take a close look at the photo above while you read this. This is quoted directly from the magazine, and no one from the board has tried these products, but we do consider this a reliable source:
+A note on screwdrivers: Motorcyclist magazine, in its May 2007 edition, had a tech tip for Japanese carburetor screws. Take a close look at the photo above while you read this. This is quoted directly from the magazine, and no one from the board has tried these products, but we do consider this a reliable source:
 *It is quite often difficult to get the Phillips screws out of the carburetor float bowl. Those and a lot of other screws on Japanese products...are specifically Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260. Note the dot in one corner of the cross formed by the slots... The Japanese-style Phillips screwdrivers are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun]... Using the normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.
@@ Line 87: / Line 87: @@
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_15.JPG|150px]]
-You also want to take the compressed cleaner, and with the straw, squirt fluid into each and every hole. You should have cleaner going into or coming out of each and every hole ~ though not at the same time.. ~ and in the same volume as the other carb bodies. And it should be coming out Clear (this one started greenish).
+You also want to take the compressed cleaner and, using the straw, squirt fluid into each and every hole. You should have cleaner going into or coming out of each and every hole ~ though not at the same time.. ~ and in the same volume as the other carb bodies. And it should be coming out Clear (this one started greenish).
 When it comes time to reassemble, the jets just screw back in, but you need to set the float height. Each set of carbs has a different recommended height (listed in the service manual for the given bike). If the floats hang too low, your bike can (and most likely will) run lean, and if they sit too high, you'll likely be fighting a rich running bike. The picture shows a special tool for measuring float height, but a 6" ruler, or even a basic set of calipers, can be used to measure the height. To measure, you want the floats to Just be touching the fuel needle (which has a spring on it, you don't want to compress that) ~ most carbs can just be set upside down and the spring will hold the floats where they need to be ~ some carbs you'll need to tilt at an angle while doing the measuring. To adjust up or down, you just bend the small metal tang that rests on the fuel needle:
@@ Line 101: / Line 101: @@
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_18.JPG|150px]]
-That's the only adjustment that can be made up top. Make sure that when you reassemble, that the diaphragm doesn't get damaged or pinched ~ the carbs won't work right and they are Expensive to replace! Test all the slides by just pushing them up with a finger and comparing them to banks you haven't touched yet, or just make sure they all react the same.
+That's the only adjustment that can be made up top. Make sure that the diaphragm doesn't get damaged or pinched when you reassemble ~ the carbs won't work right and they are expensive to replace! Test all the slides by just pushing them up with a finger and comparing them to banks you haven't touched yet, or just make sure they all react the same.
-That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment Inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory (anti-tamper plug is what it's usually called, or "EPA plug"). You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out ~ it's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit (if the screw is on the Engine side of the carb, it meters the fuel ~ if it's on the airbox side, it meters the air)... again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues... a good Base setting is 2.5 turns out from fully seated:
+That's all there is for cleaning and adjustment Inside the carb. There is one other adjustment outside of the carb, and that's the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|air/fuel mixture screw]]. This is the item that has the plug covering it from the factory (anti-tamper plug is what it's usually called, or "EPA plug"). You need to drill a small hole in the plug, then screw a screw into it and pull the plug out ~ it's just a pressure fit. What you'll be left with is the screw that meters the air OR fuel for the pilot circuit (if the screw is on the engine side of the carb, it meters the fuel ~ if it's on the airbox side, it meters the air)... Again, this is set to the lean side from the factory. By adjusting this screw, you can help cold start issues... a good base setting is 2.5 turns out from fully seated:
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_19.JPG|150px]]