Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions
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*After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes through the front of the engine. It's the one that goes through the two brackets (one on each side) that the radiator bolts to. If you back out that long bolt (it's the last one really holding the bracket) then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work. | *After you've taken out the radiator bolts and the coil bolts, it's even better to also "back out" the large long bolt that goes through the front of the engine. It's the one that goes through the two brackets (one on each side) that the radiator bolts to. If you back out that long bolt (it's the last one really holding the bracket) then you can move the bracket and the right side of the radiator further from the head and get more room to work. | ||
*The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it | *The exhaust valves can be done without the Kawasaki tool, though it's very hard without moving the radiator. You don't need to drain the radiator, just move it. | ||
*If you take the outlet hose off the bottom of the radiator, it's much easier to push the radiator forward to give yourself room to look at what you're doing on the exhaust valves. Of course, this means you'll be draining the coolant and will either have to pour it back in or [[How do I service the cooling system?|change it]]. | *If you take the outlet hose off the bottom of the radiator, it's much easier to push the radiator forward to give yourself room to look at what you're doing on the exhaust valves. Of course, this means you'll be draining the coolant and will either have to pour it back in or [[How do I service the cooling system?|change it]]. | ||