Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions

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==Feeler gauges==

*You ~~don't need the special tools, but you~~ might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.

*You might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.

:The reason for the longer gauges is that the space is pretty cramped when you're actually "in there" getting it done. The longer gauges eliminate the need to have a hand actually buried in the top end while trying to get the gauge in as well. The longer ones aren't totally necessary, but they make it a little easier to get done.

*Instead of buying feeler gauges with bent tips, you can just bend the last inch on straight ones and they'll work fine.

*As far as how much force to use on the feeler gauges, not that much. Just set it so the right gauge slides in and the next size up does not.

*Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your wrist/belt/earring

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:or have a long [http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998007220 magnetic pickup] standing by. Alternatively: 1. Don't take the gauge out of your set. 2. Take off the feelers you need and loop zip ties through the holes; if you do happen to drop one, it's not going far.

*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler ~~guage~~... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:

*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler gauge... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:

:[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]]

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*Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing.

*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this ~~was~~ very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...

*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this is very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...

*Sears also has another set that has more precision for metrics. This set has .102, .127, and .153mm feelers, which are more precise than the SAE feelers and work well for the Kawasaki tappet clearances. A little bit of confusion is created by the fact that on the back of the card the gauges come on the sizes are rounded to .10mm, .13, and .15, or something like that.

==Leaking coolant pipe==

@@ Line 48: / Line 48: @@
 ==Feeler gauges==
-*You don't need the special tools, but you might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.
+*You might want to find some longer feeler gauges (about 5~6" long). The short ones can be used, but keep them together as a set; that will effectively lengthen them, as well as prevent single blades from falling down the cam chain well.
 :The reason for the longer gauges is that the space is pretty cramped when you're actually "in there" getting it done. The longer gauges eliminate the need to have a hand actually buried in the top end while trying to get the gauge in as well. The longer ones aren't totally necessary, but they make it a little easier to get done.
 *Instead of buying feeler gauges with bent tips, you can just bend the last inch on straight ones and they'll work fine.
-*As far as how much force to use on the feeler gauges, not that much. Just set it so the right gauge slides in and the next size up does not.
 *Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your wrist/belt/earring
@@ Line 61: / Line 60: @@
 :or have a long [http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=998007220 magnetic pickup] standing by.  Alternatively: 1. Don't take the gauge out of your set. 2. Take off the feelers you need and loop zip ties through the holes; if you do happen to drop one, it's not going far.
-*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:
+*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler gauge... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So, just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:
 :[[Image:stepped gauge.jpg|250px]]
@@ Line 71: / Line 70: @@
 *Leave the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker when tightening the locknut to prevent the gap from changing.
-*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this was very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...
+*Sears' automotive valve clearance gauge set is sufficient for the job, assuming you want to adjust your valves to the looser end of spec (as most do). The three thinnest gauges are 0.005, 0.006 and 0.007 inches, marked handily in both metric and SAE. 0.005/0.006 is a usable "go/no-go" pair for the maximum specified intake valve clearance, and 0.006/0.007 is usable for the maximum exhaust valve clearance. This set also has the handy feature of having one tip of the gauges bent up at 45 degrees from the rest of the gauge. Considering you can use either end of the gauge to check clearance, this is very handy, particularly for the rightmost intake and exhaust valves. Stupid cam chain...
 *Sears also has another set that has more precision for metrics. This set has .102, .127, and .153mm feelers, which are more precise than the SAE feelers and work well for the Kawasaki tappet clearances. A little bit of confusion is created by the fact that on the back of the card the gauges come on the sizes are rounded to .10mm, .13, and .15, or something like that.
 ==Leaking coolant pipe==