Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

Line 128:

Top bearing/race orientation:

\ / bearing

|\ /| race

| | stem

Line 136:

Bottom bearing/race orientation:

| | stem

|/ \| race

/ \ bearing

Line 159:

~~'''<<<Can prob be removed>>>'''~~

First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the taper going up (looks like this / \ ).

~~Extended diagram from S Manual:~~

Give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.

~~[[image:steering head service manual.jpg|100px]]~~

~~-----------------------------------------------------------------~~

~~'''<<< I also can't tell when he switches from talking about the bearings that are under the steering head to those that are on top of it. >>>'''~~

~~------------------------------------------------------------------~~

~~First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the smaller outside diameter on the up side, and give~~ it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.

Lube everything up liberally, making sure you work the grease into the bearings well. Spin them several times and then re-apply to ensure it's getting deep into them. Put an extra bead just above the bottom bearing, as it will get forced down into the bearing when you install the forks and the bearings seat the grease in properly. Do the same for the races.

Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Take the ~~smaller~~ bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree. You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.

[[image:]]

Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Now you'll be installing the upper bearing. Take the upper bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree (looks this \ / ). You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.

Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.

Line 189:

Line 175:

It's important to recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, as it may have 'settled' and become loose.

Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on.

Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]].

~~'''<<<This whole next part is completely unintelligible.>>>''' I can kind of figure it out, but~~ I ~~don't have enough knowledge~~ to ~~rewrite it.~~

~~You should also tighten the handlebar holder bolts for the next step, but loosen them for the tightening of the other bolts, so you can square the~~ forks later. Use some logic for "how loose?". Tighten the bolts on the triple clamps good (dont want them to give when you set them), but things like the axel extra loose. Once we have the front end back together, take the bike off of its supports and ~~let the~~ front wheel ~~touch the ground. Jump up and down, or do anything to compress, on~~ the forks, ~~you're trying~~ to push, pull, and contort the forks, squaring them off in the process. Its best to do this outside or with a partner so you dont fall over. Dont get over enthusiastic though, you just want them to get set properly, not brake them, or your back.

~~-------------------------------------------------------------~~

Tighten all the bolts, then check them all again. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Go for a very quick test ride, then come back to tighten everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

@@ Line 128: / Line 128: @@
 Top bearing/race orientation:
-  \ /    bearing
+\  /    bearing
-|\  /|   race
+|\ /|   race
 |    |   stem
@@ Line 136: / Line 136: @@
 Bottom bearing/race orientation:
-|    |  stem
+|   |  stem
-|/  \|  race
+|/ \|  race
-  / \   bearing
+/  \   bearing
@@ Line 159: / Line 159: @@
-'''<<<Can prob be removed>>>'''
+First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the taper going up (looks like this / \ ).
-Extended diagram from S Manual:
+Give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.
-[[image:steering head service manual.jpg|100px]]
------------------------------------------------------------------
-'''<<< I also can't tell when he switches from talking about the bearings that are under the steering head to those that are on top of it. >>>'''
-------------------------------------------------------------------
-First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the smaller outside diameter on the up side, and give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.
 Lube everything up liberally, making sure you work the grease into the bearings well. Spin them several times and then re-apply to ensure it's getting deep into them. Put an extra bead just above the bottom bearing, as it will get forced down into the bearing when you install the forks and the bearings seat the grease in properly. Do the same for the races.
-Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Take the smaller bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree. You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.
+[[image:]]
+Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Now you'll be installing the upper bearing. Take the upper bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree (looks this \ / ). You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.
 Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.
@@ Line 189: / Line 175: @@
 It's important to recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, as it may have 'settled' and become loose.
-Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on.
+Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]].
-'''<<<This whole next part is completely unintelligible.>>>''' I can kind of figure it out, but I don't have enough knowledge to rewrite it.
-You should also tighten the handlebar holder bolts for the next step, but loosen them for the tightening of the other bolts, so you can square the forks later. Use some logic for "how loose?". Tighten the bolts on the triple clamps good (dont want them to give when you set them), but things like the axel extra loose. Once we have the front end back together, take the bike off of its supports and let the front wheel touch the ground. Jump up and down, or do anything to compress, on the forks, you're trying to push, pull, and contort the forks, squaring them off in the process. Its best to do this outside or with a partner so you dont fall over. Dont get over enthusiastic though, you just want them to get set properly, not brake them, or your back.
--------------------------------------------------------------
-Tighten all the bolts, then check them all again. Snug the top stem bolt.  Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
+Tighten all the bolts, then check them all again. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
 Go for a very quick test ride, then come back to tighten everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.