Removing J bike carbs: Difference between revisions
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Now you have the carbs in your hands. If you think the gas is new and good, you can just drain the carbs into the tank. Otherwise, use a correct container. You need that 3mm allen key again. | Now you have the carbs in your hands. If you think the gas is new and good, you can just drain the carbs into the tank. Otherwise, use a correct container. You need that 3mm allen key again. | ||
Now you just need to remove the phillips screws holding the float bowls to the carb bodies and drill out the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|mixture screw protective caps]]. Then you can | Now you just need to remove the phillips screws holding the float bowls to the carb bodies and drill out the [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|mixture screw protective caps]]. Then you can make all the [[How do I work on the carbs?|adjustments]] you need to the carbs. | ||
Make sure both [[How do I adjust the floats?|float heights]] are set to 17mm. Mixture screws on this bike were set to 1.5 to 2 turns out for the left cylinder and 2.5 to 3 turns out for the right from the factory. [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|Set them both]] to 2.5 turns. | Make sure both [[How do I adjust the floats?|float heights]] are set to 17mm. Mixture screws on this bike were set to 1.5 to 2 turns out for the left cylinder and 2.5 to 3 turns out for the right from the factory. [[How do I adjust the idle mixture?|Set them both]] to 2.5 turns. | ||
Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off) and set the petcock to prime. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future. | Put everything back together (much faster than taking it off) and set the petcock to prime. Don't forget to switch back to the on position; you don't need a flooded engine in the near future. | ||