My LED turn signals don't work right: Difference between revisions

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Pull the two halves of the cluster apart. All three analog gauges are now visible. If you gently pry on the colored plastic of the four indicator bulb diffusers (red, blue, yellow, green, aka 'idiot lights') you can get at the area the indicators live in. Now tap into the Yellow/Black wire wherever is the easiest for you: The high beam bulb, the tachometer, the water temp meter or any of the three gauge illumination bulbs. You just need to choose one; this is your ground. (Yellow and black wire is ground throughout the bike.) Use crimp connectors as detailed above, and run that new wire into the turn indicator bulb area of the dash.  
Pull the two halves of the cluster apart. All three analog gauges are now visible. If you gently pry on the colored plastic of the four indicator bulb diffusers (red, blue, yellow, green, aka 'idiot lights') you can get at the area the indicators live in. Now tap into the Yellow/Black wire wherever is the easiest for you: The high beam bulb, the tachometer, the water temp meter or any of the three gauge illumination bulbs. You just need to choose one; this is your ground. (Yellow and black wire is ground throughout the bike.) Use crimp connectors as detailed above, and run that new wire into the turn indicator bulb area of the dash.  


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You now need to attach two 12 volt LEDs to the stock bulb socket. [[Soldering 101|Solder]] the anode (+) end of one LED to the green wire and the anode of the other LED to the grey wire. Solder ''both'' cathode (-) legs together to the black/yellow wire for ground.  
 
You now need to attach two 12 volt LEDs to the stock bulb socket. Connect the anode (+) end of one LED to the green wire and the anode of the other LED to the grey wire. Wire ''both'' cathode (-) legs together to the black/yellow wire for ground.  
 
 
 
 


[[Speedo removal 1.jpg|150px]]
[[Speedo removal 1.jpg|150px]]


 
To mount the LEDs, test fit one into the bulb housing first. If one leg of the LED fits nice and stays in after given a tug, call it good. If not, solder the LED anode (+) legs to bits of solid wire and then shove the wire into the bulb housing. LEDs weigh almost nothing, so once they're in they're probably not going to bounce around much. Use a prodigious amount of electrical tape on each leg and then the whole assembly, to ensure that nothing moves or shorts.  
 
 
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To mount the LEDs, test fit one into the bulb housing first. If one leg of the LED fits nice and stays in after given a tug, call it good. If not, solder the LED anode (+) legs to bits of solid wire and then shove the wire into the bulb housing. LEDs weigh almost nothing, so once they're in they're probably not going to bounce around much. Use a prodigious amount of electrical tape on each leg and then the whole assembly, to ensure that nothing moves or shorts.  


Put the 4 colored plastic bulb diffusers back in place, button up the cluster and reattach to the bike.
Put the 4 colored plastic bulb diffusers back in place, button up the cluster and reattach to the bike.


Diagram for this mod. Stock is on the left and LED is on the right.


 
[[image: 830372.jpg|150px]]
 
Look at my diagram in this post:  
http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=830372#830372http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=830372#830372
 
The dashed box in the bottom center represents what's going on inside the cluster.
 
 
Check out the 2 circuits I've drawn here. The major components and wire colors are shown without connectors (for simplification). The left circuit is stock, the right circuit is for use with LEDs.
 
 
 
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SRH: Here's my version of the LED/Diode turn signal mod
Here's the link to my pics:
 
http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j356/Eeven-Steven/Ninja%20250%20LED_%20Diode%20Mod/
 
Here's the link to the online 'LED gettin' place':
 
 
 
These are the part #s I used:
 
Rear pods: 3x 1157-R18-T
Center Pod as: Run/Brake
Left & Right Pods as: Run/Turn
 
Front pods 1 ea.: 1156-A30
 
Electronic Flasher: LF1-S-PIN
 
The diodes can be purchased at any Radio Shack.
 
Note: If either the two front signals, or the two rear signals are kept in the incandescent mode, the diode modification is not necessary, but you'll still need an electronic flasher to regulate the flash rate.