Helicoil insert for a stripped spark plug hole: Difference between revisions

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==Bike preparation==

Get the bike stripped down basically to where you would be doing a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_adjustment_procedure%3F#Getting_to_the_valves valve check], and then go one step further and remove the gasket and tower on the spark plug hole (two bolts). Be sure to '''not''' have both of these off at the same time, otherwise the exhaust cam won't have anything holding it in.

Get the bike stripped down basically to where you would be doing a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_adjustment_procedure%3F#Getting_to_the_valves valve check], and then go one step further and remove the gasket and tower on the spark plug hole (two bolts). Be sure to '''not''' have both of these off at the same time, otherwise the exhaust cam won't have anything holding it in. Only do one cylinder at a time.

[[image: IMG_7348.jpg|150px]]

Because the tap has an extension on it that threads into the existing threads, the cylinder needs to be as close to bottom dead center as you can get it. When you're positioning the piston for the cylinder you're working on, turn the engine over until the intake valve rocker arm will just wiggle a little. That way both valves will be closed, but the piston will be well down in the bore, so it won't cause any interference with the Helicoil tap. Since the thread tap is a three-part tool (guide, reamer, and thread tap) there will be a good bit of it sticking down in the bore, and you don't want it running into anything.

If you're doing both cylinders, don't forget to position the crank for that side in the same way.

==Tapping the threads==

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 ==Bike preparation==
-Get the bike stripped down basically to where you would be doing a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_adjustment_procedure%3F#Getting_to_the_valves valve check], and then go one step further and remove the gasket and tower on the spark plug hole (two bolts). Be sure to '''not''' have both of these off at the same time, otherwise the exhaust cam won't have anything holding it in.
+Get the bike stripped down basically to where you would be doing a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_adjustment_procedure%3F#Getting_to_the_valves valve check], and then go one step further and remove the gasket and tower on the spark plug hole (two bolts). Be sure to '''not''' have both of these off at the same time, otherwise the exhaust cam won't have anything holding it in. Only do one cylinder at a time.
 [[image: IMG_7348.jpg|150px]]
 Because the tap has an extension on it that threads into the existing threads, the cylinder needs to be as close to bottom dead center as you can get it. When you're positioning the piston for the cylinder you're working on, turn the engine over until the intake valve rocker arm will just wiggle a little. That way both valves will be closed, but the piston will be well down in the bore, so it won't cause any interference with the Helicoil tap. Since the thread tap is a three-part tool (guide, reamer, and thread tap) there will be a good bit of it sticking down in the bore, and you don't want it running into anything.
+If you're doing both cylinders, don't forget to position the crank for that side in the same way.
 ==Tapping the threads==