Brake caliper rebuild: Difference between revisions

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[[Category: Brakes]]

For more information and pictures, see [[How do I replace the brake pads?]].

Supplies ~~are pretty basic. Everything you need can be found at Autozone or similar stores.~~

==Supplies==

~~'''~~For a deep cleaning~~'''~~

====For a deep cleaning====

* DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_brake_fluid%3F#What_kind_of_brake_fluid.3F DOT4 preferred]

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* Dentist's-type pick or tiny flat head screwdriver

* Heavy duty large zip ties

* Copper ~~XXXXXXXX~~ washers (optional)

* Copper banjo bolt washers (optional) part #43067-001 WASHER,10.5X15X1.5

~~'''Additional parts for a rebuild'''~~

:If you decide to go the recommended route below and take the caliper off the bike, you'll need two of these for each banjo bolt you remove.

If you~~'re going~~ to go ~~to all this trouble, it's worth replacing~~ the ~~rubber seals. They're wear parts that are designed to be replaced every 20k miles or so anyway. Granted~~, it'~~s about $30~~ for ~~all the seals, but that seems like a worthwhile expense vs. having the front brake fail at some inopportune point in the future~~.

*

====Additional parts for a rebuild====

If you're going to go to the trouble of taking your caliper all apart, you might as well replace the rubber seals. They're wear parts and are designed to be replaced approximately every 20,000 miles or so. It's $20-30 per caliper for the seals, but that's a worthwhile expense vs. having the brake fail at some inopportune point in the future.

Keep in mind that there are four seals per caliper and each has a different part number. Also note that the front and rear calipers are not the same and use different seals as well.

==Notes==

Throughout this process, use copious amounts of brake cleaner on every dirty part, then wipe and dry thoroughly. Not on the pads, though. The best practice is to keep every fluid possible off the pads. Air and water are okay, but anything else can lead to pads that get slick, get hard (providing less friction) or even get crumbly and wear away in just a couple of uses. It all depends on how the glue that's binding the particles (metal or organic) together reacts to whatever chemical hits it.

==Procedure==

Remove the two 12mm bolts attaching the caliper to the fork.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category: Brakes]]
 For more information and pictures, see [[How do I replace the brake pads?]].
-Supplies are pretty basic. Everything you need can be found at Autozone or similar stores.
+==Supplies==
-'''For a deep cleaning'''
+====For a deep cleaning====
 * DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_change_the_brake_fluid%3F#What_kind_of_brake_fluid.3F DOT4 preferred]
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 * Dentist's-type pick or tiny flat head screwdriver
 * Heavy duty large zip ties
-* Copper XXXXXXXX  washers (optional)
+* Copper banjo bolt washers (optional) part #43067-001 WASHER,10.5X15X1.5
-'''Additional parts for a rebuild'''
+:If you decide to go the recommended route below and take the caliper off the bike, you'll need two of these for each banjo bolt you remove.
-If you're going to go to all this trouble, it's worth replacing the rubber seals. They're wear parts that are designed to be replaced every 20k miles or so anyway. Granted, it's about $30 for all the seals, but that seems like a worthwhile expense vs. having the front brake fail at some inopportune point in the future.
-*
-*
-*
+====Additional parts for a rebuild====
+If you're going to go to the trouble of taking your caliper all apart, you might as well replace the rubber seals. They're wear parts and are designed to be replaced approximately every 20,000 miles or so. It's $20-30 per caliper for the seals, but that's a worthwhile expense vs. having the brake fail at some inopportune point in the future.
+Keep in mind that there are four seals per caliper and each has a different part number. Also note that the front and rear calipers are not the same and use different seals as well.
+==Notes==
 Throughout this process, use copious amounts of brake cleaner on every dirty part, then wipe and dry thoroughly. Not on the pads, though. The best practice is to keep every fluid possible off the pads. Air and water are okay, but anything else can lead to pads that get slick, get hard (providing less friction) or even get crumbly and wear away in just a couple of uses. It all depends on how the glue that's binding the particles (metal or organic) together reacts to whatever chemical hits it.
+==Procedure==
 Remove the two 12mm bolts attaching the caliper to the fork.