Getting into 250 racing: Difference between revisions

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Then you'll need a bike. A [[How to build your own track bike|dedicated track bike]]. You don't want to (and usually can't) race your daily rider. It doesn't have to be a pretty bike, but it's got to be mechanically good, or you have to be able to make it that way. Remember that you're going to run through consumables faster than on a road bike. Up-front costs will include, among lots of other little things, new tires, a new rear shock, new fork springs, new fork oil, and whatever repairs will be necessary to bring it up to good rideable condition. Plan to replace the coolant with water (and change it back winter comes).

Other expenses depend on how much stuff you already have. Even the most basic [[Leather suit|leather suit]] is going to be about $500, and you may need extra gloves, boots and helmet(s). You will crash.

Factor in race organization fees, entry fees for races, and money for practice sessions, be it with your club or as track days. Other expenses depend on how much stuff you already have. Even the most basic [[Leather suit|leather suit]] is going to be about $500, and you may need extra gloves, boots and helmet(s). You will crash.

You'll need at least a [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|swingarm stand]], since your bike will no longer have any stands on it. A front stand wouldn't hurt. Also plan on going through some parts. The front brake reservoir is a likely casualty in a right-turn crash, as are the footpeg side plates. Clutch and brake levers, obviously, and new footpegs, rear brake, and shift levers would also be worth having. Anything you can see easily getting ground off, snapped off, or snagged on something as the bike slides on its side down the track is a good candidate. See [[Spares to bring to a track day]].

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 Then you'll need a bike. A [[How to build your own track bike|dedicated track bike]]. You don't want to (and usually can't) race your daily rider. It doesn't have to be a pretty bike, but it's got to be mechanically good, or you have to be able to make it that way. Remember that you're going to run through consumables faster than on a road bike. Up-front costs will include, among lots of other little things, new tires, a new rear shock, new fork springs, new fork oil, and whatever repairs will be necessary to bring it up to good rideable condition. Plan to replace the coolant with water (and change it back winter comes).
-Other expenses depend on how much stuff you already have. Even the most basic [[Leather suit|leather suit]] is going to be about $500, and you may need extra gloves, boots and helmet(s). You will crash.
+Factor in race organization fees, entry fees for races, and money for practice sessions, be it with your club or as track days. Other expenses depend on how much stuff you already have. Even the most basic [[Leather suit|leather suit]] is going to be about $500, and you may need extra gloves, boots and helmet(s). You will crash.
 You'll need at least a [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing|swingarm stand]], since your bike will no longer have any stands on it. A front stand wouldn't hurt. Also plan on going through some parts. The front brake reservoir is a likely casualty in a right-turn crash, as are the footpeg side plates. Clutch and brake levers, obviously, and new footpegs, rear brake, and shift levers would also be worth having. Anything you can see easily getting ground off, snapped off, or snagged on something as the bike slides on its side down the track is a good candidate. See [[Spares to bring to a track day]].