My brakes are not operating normally: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:Brakes]] | [[Category:Brakes]] | ||
There is a pulsing when I apply my brakes. | ====There is a pulsing when I apply my brakes.==== | ||
Jack up the front wheel. Spin the wheel and look for rubbing. Apply the front brake ever so slightly to see where it touches first. Mark that part of the wheel. There are 6 allen head bolts holding the front rotor to the wheel. Tighten the two or three bolts clostest to the spot on the wheel where the rubbing occured. | Jack up the front wheel. Spin the wheel and look for rubbing. Apply the front brake ever so slightly to see where it touches first. Mark that part of the wheel. There are 6 allen head bolts holding the front rotor to the wheel. Tighten the two or three bolts clostest to the spot on the wheel where the rubbing occured. | ||
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If that doesn't fix it, replace the pads. Still no luck? Have a machine shop resurface the rotor ever so slightly as to not make it too thin. If all else fails replace the rotor. | If that doesn't fix it, replace the pads. Still no luck? Have a machine shop resurface the rotor ever so slightly as to not make it too thin. If all else fails replace the rotor. | ||
My brake pads are grinding. | ====My brake pads are grinding.==== | ||
It is normal for the pads to drag slightly, especially just after replacing them. Excessive grinding can be caused by having the torque link nut too tight, or having the hex nuts that hold the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket too tight. Be sure to correct this before the rotor warps from being overheated. | It is normal for the pads to drag slightly, especially just after replacing them. Excessive grinding can be caused by having the torque link nut too tight, or having the hex nuts that hold the caliper to the caliper mounting bracket too tight. Be sure to correct this before the rotor warps from being overheated. | ||
My rear brakes don't feel right. | ====My rear brakes don't feel right.==== | ||
The rear caliper on this bike has a single piston. One brake pad is pushed by one piston, the other brake pad just kind of sits there on the other side of the rotor. You only need to push from one side to compress the whole she-bang. (Not exactly true, but really close enough) | The rear caliper on this bike has a single piston. One brake pad is pushed by one piston, the other brake pad just kind of sits there on the other side of the rotor. You only need to push from one side to compress the whole she-bang. (Not exactly true, but really close enough) | ||
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2. Thoroughly clean everything that is visible with perchlorethelyne-based brake cleaner (don't get it on your hands... if you do, use lots of moisturizer afterwards. With lanolin. Canadians: Go to crappy tire and look for the stuff with the gold lid) | 2. Thoroughly clean everything that is visible with perchlorethelyne-based brake cleaner (don't get it on your hands... if you do, use lots of moisturizer afterwards. With lanolin. Canadians: Go to crappy tire and look for the stuff with the gold lid) | ||
3. Carefully apply a '''BIT''' of pressure to the rear brake lever to push the pistons out. Be careful not to push them all the way out! Temporarily installing ONE pad will help prevent this. | 3. Carefully apply a '''BIT''' of pressure to the rear brake lever to push the pistons out. ''Be careful not to push them all the way out!'' Temporarily installing ONE pad will help prevent this. | ||
4. Examine the visible portion of the piston for pitting. If it has more than light pitting, it is due for replacement, as it can cause your brakes to gradually loose fluid, and chew away at your dust/fluid seals. | 4. Examine the visible portion of the piston for pitting. If it has more than light pitting, it is due for replacement, as it can cause your brakes to gradually loose fluid, and chew away at your dust/fluid seals. | ||