A beginner's guide to maintenance tools: Difference between revisions

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A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a High-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's (always buy from a company who offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access... this might be Home Depot and Lowe's for most people). You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.

As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend. Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. And remember, a torque wrench is used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for.

As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend.

In all actual actuality, if you're going to be doing the majority of the work on your bike, you'll need two torque wrenches. One, in inch-lbs, for the lower torque numbers, and another one, in foot-lbs, for higher torque usage. Take a look at the [[Torque Values|torque values page]] and see which things you'll be most likely to do. Then find out if you can find decent, quality torque wrenches in that range. Check eBay, our [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|online tool guide]], or do a general internet search. If you do intend on hanging on to quality tools for a long time, you'll probably need something in the range of 50-250 in-lbs, and 10-100 ft-lbs. If you can only afford one wrench, buy the one you will use the most.

There are two types of torque wrenches: the "clicker" and the "deflection beam". BrianM says that, for the new mechanic, it may make more sense to start out with a deflection beam type. They're cheaper, and they don't have to be re-calibrated. The major drawback to them is that you have to be able to look at the scale while you work, which can be a bit of a pain at times, and which is why professional mechanics use clicker-types. You use them just like a regular ratchet, but they click when the proper torque is achieved, which makes them easier and faster to use.

Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. For instance, a 10-100 ft-lbs wrench has a range of 90, so it is only accurate from 18 or 19 to 91 or 92, by the time you take 10% off each end. And remember, a torque wrench is used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for.

The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap, but handy tool, is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm.

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 A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a High-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's (always buy from a company who offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access... this might be Home Depot and Lowe's for most people). You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.
-As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend. Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. And remember, a torque wrench is used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for.
+As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend.
+In all actual actuality, if you're going to be doing the majority of the work on your bike, you'll need two torque wrenches. One, in inch-lbs, for the lower torque numbers, and another one, in foot-lbs, for higher torque usage. Take a look at the [[Torque Values|torque values page]] and see which things you'll be most likely to do. Then find out if you can find decent, quality torque wrenches in that range. Check eBay, our [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|online tool guide]], or do a general internet search. If you do intend on hanging on to quality tools for a long time, you'll probably need something in the range of 50-250 in-lbs, and 10-100 ft-lbs. If you can only afford one wrench, buy the one you will use the most.
+There are two types of torque wrenches: the "clicker" and the "deflection beam". BrianM says that, for the new mechanic, it may make more sense to start out with a deflection beam type. They're cheaper, and they don't have to be re-calibrated. The major drawback to them is that you have to be able to look at the scale while you work, which can be a bit of a pain at times, and which is why professional mechanics use clicker-types. You use them just like a regular ratchet, but they click when the proper torque is achieved, which makes them easier and faster to use.
+Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. For instance, a 10-100 ft-lbs wrench has a range of 90, so it is only accurate from  18 or 19 to 91 or 92, by the time you take 10% off each end. And remember, a torque wrench is used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for.
 The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap, but handy tool, is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm.