Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Intake]]

The previous article showed everyone how to drain the carbs. That is a ~~precurser~~ to cleaning the carbs. Cleaning carbs is a Bit more involved than draining them.

The previous article showed everyone how to drain the carbs. That is a precursor to cleaning the carbs. Cleaning carbs is a Bit more involved than draining them.

There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest ~~peroid~~ where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested:

There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest period where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_1.JPG|150px]]

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Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or, just leave it to sit overnight (2nd part of the directions).

*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called Berryman Chem Dip. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.

:I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.

:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it'''(including rubber carb parts, naturally), and you want to wear gloves when you use it. It's available at just about any auto parts store for around 15 bucks.

Now, for those of you who want to do it Right (because that's the kind of person you are, or because you're going to keep the bike for awhile), then this is the procedure, tools, hints, parts.. etc, for cleaning. No instructions for [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Removing the carbs]] are included, though. (If you can't follow the manual or FAQ to remove the carbs, then you probably aren't equipped to do this work).

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[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_5.JPG|150px]]

A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is Essential for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more ~~agressive~~ than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with ~~Listerene~~... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.

A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is Essential for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more aggressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerine... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_6.JPG|150px]]

One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that Anytime you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then ~~Murhpy~~'s law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.

One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that Anytime you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.

Now, it's VERY important that you use a Quality screwdriver that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are Notorious for being stiff to remove... don't let something like this happen to you:

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Intake]]
-The previous article showed everyone how to drain the carbs. That is a precurser to cleaning the carbs. Cleaning carbs is a Bit more involved than draining them.
+The previous article showed everyone how to drain the carbs. That is a precursor to cleaning the carbs. Cleaning carbs is a Bit more involved than draining them.
-There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest peroid where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested:
+There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest period where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested:
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_1.JPG|150px]]
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or, just leave it to sit overnight (2nd part of the directions).
+*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called Berryman Chem Dip. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.
+:I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.
+:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it'''(including rubber carb parts, naturally), and you want to wear gloves when you use it. It's available at just about any auto parts store for around 15 bucks.
 Now, for those of you who want to do it Right (because that's the kind of person you are, or because you're going to keep the bike for awhile), then this is the procedure, tools, hints, parts.. etc, for cleaning. No instructions for [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Removing the carbs]] are included, though. (If you can't follow the manual or FAQ to remove the carbs, then you probably aren't equipped to do this work).
@@ Line 26: / Line 32: @@
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_5.JPG|150px]]
-A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is Essential for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more agressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerene... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.
+A #2 phillips, assorted flat blade screwdrivers and a length of copper wire. Not shown is the #4 allen used to put back the replacement screws. The copper wire is Essential for reaming the passageways and helping clean. Any metal more aggressive than copper has a Very good chance of hurting the carb internals and making them not operate correctly. If you just mess up jets, well that's a $5~7 per item mistake, but if you scratch a passageway, then you're looking at a new set of carbs. And it's essential in the same way a toothbrush is, vs. just rinsing with Listerine... you need to scrub the tough bits that are stuck.
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_6.JPG|150px]]
-One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that Anytime you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murhpy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.
+One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that Anytime you leave an opening to the engine, you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside... Paper towels are cheap and effective.
 Now, it's VERY important that you use a Quality screwdriver that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are Notorious for being stiff to remove... don't let something like this happen to you: