Cam chain tensioner removal: Difference between revisions

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====Introduction====
====Introduction====


The cam chain tensioner is one of the known problem areas on the EX250. Doing a little routine maintenance every oil change, or every other one, should help this piece of your engine last longer. If you're having trouble seeing what it looks like, take a look at the diagram at the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/camshaft_tensioner/camshaft_tensioner.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3170&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche]. Part # for the whole assembly is 12048-1106.
Some people have had problems with their cam chain tensioner, but the majority have not. Leon, longtime 250 rider and club member, [http://www.ecta-lsr.com/RecordsMoto3.php 250cc speed record-holder], and 12th place (overall) finisher in the 2003 [http://www.ironbutt.com/about/default.cfm Iron Butt Rally] says not to worry about it: "I've never had an issue with one on the Ninja. In this case, fixing it before it breaks may be what causes it to break. The inside of the engine should be a relatively clean, dry (without water) place. It should be fine where it is. In other words, if it ain't broke don't fix it."
 
However, if you think you want to lube yours periodically, here goes. There is a diagram at the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/camshaft_tensioner/camshaft_tensioner.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3170&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche]. Part # for the whole assembly is 12048-1106.


====Camshaft chain tensioner removal====
====Camshaft chain tensioner removal====
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How the tensioner works: The springs push on the plunger, which pushes on the cam chain. The springs are a specific strength so as to put the correct tension on the chain. There's also a ratchet mechanism in there that allows the plunger to go out, but not come back in under normal use (you can override that for installation).
How the tensioner works: The springs push on the plunger, which pushes on the cam chain. The springs are a specific strength so as to put the correct tension on the chain. There's also a ratchet mechanism in there that allows the plunger to go out, but not come back in under normal use (you can override that for installation).


The negative part of all this is that when the tensioner goes, the cam chain can slap around within the engine, tearing off bits of the plastic that are there to help guide it and protect the metal... which then float around in the engine until they get stuck somewhere or do damage. The chain can also jump teeth, in which case the timing is off and the bike runs terribly, or you have that unhappy valve-to-piston contact. It's not ''quite'' as bad as losing the timing belt on a car (with an interference engine), but it's not good.
The negative part of all this is that when the tensioner goes, the cam chain can slap around within the engine, tearing off bits of the plastic that are there to help guide it and protect the metal... which then float around in the engine until they get stuck somewhere or do damage. The chain can also jump teeth, in which case the timing is off and the bike runs terribly, or you have that unhappy valve-to-piston contact. It's not ''quite'' as bad as losing the timing belt on a car (with an interference engine), but it's not good. The usual noise fo a tensioner getting worn is a loud ticking, similar to noisy valves.  


It could be worse: Kawi does a better job than Suzuki on their tensioners.
It could be worse: Kawi does a better job than Suzuki on their tensioners.