Installing an accessory fuse box: Difference between revisions

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====Finding a mounting location====

For the purposes of this article, we will be following the installation of the Bussman 15600. If you are using one of the Eastern Beaver units, hook the relay up the same, then [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/Install/install.html follow their directions]. Mounting will be virtually the same as with the Bussman. In fact, you can use this as a basic guide for any fuse box on most any motorcycle.

The first thing to tackle is finding a place for your new fuse box. In order to know how long to make the wires you really have to figure out where to mount everything, but read the whole article first, OK? This does not mean that you should mount the box yet. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong.

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Find a convenient point to mount the relay. Remember that 'finding a place to mount it' and 'mounting it there permanently' are two different things. So, don't affix it permanently yet.

You can put the relay just above the stock fuse box, where it's close to the horn circuit and the battery, and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting. The black plastic underneath is the airbox. '''Absolutely do not drill any holes in the airbox.''' If that position doesn't ~~please~~ you, underneath the seat or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.

You can put the relay just above the stock fuse box, where it's close to the horn circuit and the battery, and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting. The black plastic underneath is the airbox. '''Absolutely do not drill any holes in the airbox.''' If that position doesn't work for you, underneath the seat or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.

[[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]]

====Hooking it up====

For the purposes of this article, we will be following the installation of the Bussman 15600. If you are using one of the Eastern Beaver units, hook the relay up the same, then [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/Install/install.html follow their directions]. Mounting will be virtually the same as with the Bussman.

~~'''''>>Ryan - Should this statement be made earlier? The article is already talking about mounting the fuse panel and relay which apply specifically to the Bussman.'''''~~

'''''This diagram needs a few more details; Ryan says "It could use the pins that you need to attach to and where the wires are going".'''''

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====Installation of the Bussman box====

The Buss doesn't provide a 'ground' terminal on their unit. So, you can add a ground post (lower right corner) to compliment the power lead. This is not strictly necessary, but it does make the install safer and cleaner. For your accessories, you could ground them all at different locations around the bike. By putting a ground post on the Bussman you can run hot and ground leads to each device next to each other at the same time, and have them both hook to the fuse box.

The Buss doesn't provide a 'ground' terminal on their unit. So, you can add a ground post (lower right corner) to compliment the power lead. This is not strictly necessary, but it does make the install safer and cleaner. For your accessories, you ''could'' ground them all at different locations around the bike. By putting a ground post on the Bussman you can run hot and ground leads to each device next to each other at the same time, and have them both hook to the fuse box.

Find a location on your fuse box that will be easy to access and where the bolt won't get in the way of anything. In the example here, the grounding post is in the lower right hand corner. Drill a hole in the plastic that is just large enough for the bolt to pass through. Feed the bolt through from the back side, so the head of the bolt is on the back side of the fuse box, and secure with one of the [http://www.nylok.com/products_torqpatch.htm Nylok] lock nuts on the front side. You want the long end of the bolt sticking out, so you can add your individual grounds later.

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After you mount the fuse block to the bike, put a wire going from this post back to the negative terminal on the battery and secure it with a [http://www.boltdepot.com/K-Lock-Nuts.aspx k-nut]. You can then put all of the accessory ground leads on this post. You can put a couple of accessory leads between k-nuts, assuming the wires don't break from extreme mounting angles.

Use the Nyloks for the body attachments and the top nut on the grounding post because they hold VERY well in a harsh vibrating environment like on a bike. The k-nuts are good for the middle of the grounding post (holding the ground leads down) because they're metal and grip well on the ring terminals.

Use the Nyloks for the body attachments and the top nut on the grounding post because they hold VERY well in a harsh vibrating environment, like on a bike. The k-nuts are good for the middle of the grounding post (holding the ground leads down) because they're metal and grip well on the ring terminals.

Add additional k-nuts as needed (keeping only about 2 ground leads per k-nut) and top it all off with a nylok.

@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 ====Finding a mounting location====
+For the purposes of this article, we will be following the installation of the Bussman 15600. If you are using one of the Eastern Beaver units, hook the relay up the same, then [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/Install/install.html follow their directions]. Mounting will be virtually the same as with the Bussman. In fact, you can use this as a basic guide for any fuse box on most any motorcycle.
 The first thing to tackle is finding a place for your new fuse box. In order to know how long to make the wires you really have to figure out where to mount everything, but read the whole article first, OK? This does not mean that you should mount the box yet. As always, try to test everything before mounting, in the interest of saving time if something gets hooked up wrong.
@@ Line 82: / Line 84: @@
 Find a convenient point to mount the relay. Remember that 'finding a place to mount it' and 'mounting it there permanently' are two different things. So, don't affix it permanently yet.
-You can put the relay just above the stock fuse box, where it's close to the horn circuit and the battery, and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting. The black plastic underneath is the airbox. '''Absolutely do not drill any holes in the airbox.''' If that position doesn't please you, underneath the seat or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.
+You can put the relay just above the stock fuse box, where it's close to the horn circuit and the battery, and not taking up room on the other side. A simple zip-tie will suffice for mounting. The black plastic underneath is the airbox. '''Absolutely do not drill any holes in the airbox.''' If that position doesn't work for you, underneath the seat or anywhere on the bike will work. Remember that the shorter the wires the better.
 [[image:buss-6.jpg|150px]]
 ====Hooking it up====
-For the purposes of this article, we will be following the installation of the Bussman 15600. If you are using one of the Eastern Beaver units, hook the relay up the same, then [http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/FB-4/Install/install.html follow their directions]. Mounting will be virtually the same as with the Bussman.
-'''''>>Ryan - Should this statement be made earlier?  The article is already talking about mounting the fuse panel and relay which apply specifically to the Bussman.'''''
 '''''This diagram needs a few more details; Ryan says "It could use the pins that you need to attach to and where the wires are going".'''''
@@ Line 119: / Line 117: @@
 ====Installation of the Bussman box====
-The Buss doesn't provide a 'ground' terminal on their unit. So, you can add a ground post (lower right corner) to compliment the power lead. This is not strictly necessary, but it does make the install safer and cleaner. For your accessories, you could ground them all at different locations around the bike. By putting a ground post on the Bussman you can run hot and ground leads to each device next to each other at the same time, and have them both hook to the fuse box.
+The Buss doesn't provide a 'ground' terminal on their unit. So, you can add a ground post (lower right corner) to compliment the power lead. This is not strictly necessary, but it does make the install safer and cleaner. For your accessories, you ''could'' ground them all at different locations around the bike. By putting a ground post on the Bussman you can run hot and ground leads to each device next to each other at the same time, and have them both hook to the fuse box.
 Find a location on your fuse box that will be easy to access and where the bolt won't get in the way of anything. In the example here, the grounding post is in the lower right hand corner. Drill a hole in the plastic that is just large enough for the bolt to pass through. Feed the bolt through from the back side, so the head of the bolt is on the back side of the fuse box, and secure with one of the [http://www.nylok.com/products_torqpatch.htm Nylok] lock nuts on the front side. You want the long end of the bolt sticking out, so you can add your individual grounds later.
@@ Line 125: / Line 123: @@
 After you mount the fuse block to the bike, put a wire going from this post back to the negative terminal on the battery and secure it with a [http://www.boltdepot.com/K-Lock-Nuts.aspx k-nut]. You can then put all of the accessory ground leads on this post. You can put a couple of accessory leads between k-nuts, assuming the wires don't break from extreme mounting angles.
-Use the Nyloks for the body attachments and the top nut on the grounding post because they hold VERY well in a harsh vibrating environment like on a bike. The k-nuts are good for the middle of the grounding post (holding the ground leads down) because they're metal and grip well on the ring terminals.
+Use the Nyloks for the body attachments and the top nut on the grounding post because they hold VERY well in a harsh vibrating environment, like on a bike. The k-nuts are good for the middle of the grounding post (holding the ground leads down) because they're metal and grip well on the ring terminals.
 Add additional k-nuts as needed (keeping only about 2 ground leads per k-nut) and top it all off with a nylok.